My new ‘64 Imperial convertible

It has begun! Just finished up another project on the other convertible before sticking it in the corner for the winter.
First things first, Will it run? I’m almost sure it will but I’m not rushing anything.:thumbsup:
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It had no fuel pump on it and the gas tank as mentioned earlier had been out and put back in but just finger tight.
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Love the Tri city sign in the first pic
 
Love the Tri city sign in the first pic
Yes that piece gets a lot of attention. I bought it about the same time I moved in to the shop, Thank you Craigslist.:thumbsup:
I bought it from the young man who had just painted it.
 
So even though I’m trying to stay focused under the hood I had to look again to make sure the power vents didn’t magically appear. Well they didn’t but i didn’t know these were stashed in the door!:)
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However...
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And the passenger side.:BangHead:
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The good news is I have a pair of regulators with motors attached and I think one of the motors even works.:thumbsup:
 
Bummer on the rust inside the door, but only on the passenger side? Glad you found the window switches, so it did have the power vent option from the factory?
 
Bummer on the rust inside the door, but only on the passenger side? Glad you found the window switches, so it did have the power vent option from the factory?
The rust inside the door is very much just surface, the pic was more to show that there’s no regulator at all in there and this is in fact a non power vent car from the factory.:(
 
Not sure about Mopar, but that felt insulation got sprayed on the naked sheetmetal in some cars back in the day, Looks fine under These circumstances.
 
So even though I’m trying to stay focused under the hood I had to look again to make sure the power vents didn’t magically appear. Well they didn’t but i didn’t know these were stashed in the door!:)
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However...View attachment 327124
And the passenger side.:BangHead:
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The good news is I have a pair of regulators with motors attached and I think one of the motors even works.:thumbsup:
Wonder what the handy accessory hole (where the D/S power vent switch would have been) in the switchbank was used for?
 
Good question, it was put there only slightly better than crudely. Good thing I have a few extra without mods.
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This is some good news. I pulled the radiator and it has a tag on it from a shop in Skokie which means the p.o. Had it out and checked(still going to have my guy go through it though).
It also appears to have had a timing chain in the past as there’s no slack in the chain and some silicone sealer at the bottom of the cover so I’m no taking it apart any further.
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I opened and read this thread because Matt was the last person to post and I wanted to read what he said.
Thanks Stan, I’m humbled...:icon_fU:

Btw, I dropped off the radiator and the gas tank for service. The rad just had a couple of areas that seeped and is now sealed, cleaned and ready. The gas tank is being cleaned and lined. Thankfully it was in good enough shape to be saved.
Also pulled the rocker assemblies so that I could clean any debris from the top of the head and the rtv off from the valve cover mating surfaces without loosing anything into the lifter valley. Still has the original pushrods so that confirms that with the exception of the timing chain set, it’s not been apart.
 
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This is some good news. I pulled the radiator and it has a tag on it from a shop in Skokie which means the p.o. Had it out and checked(still going to have my guy go through it though).
It also appears to have had a timing chain in the past as there’s no slack in the chain and some silicone sealer at the bottom of the cover so I’m no taking it apart any further.
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If you went to the trouble to have metal tags made to put on radiators you repaired, wouldn't you make sure they spelled the name of your shop right? SNOKIE?
 
It has started to go back together. I changed the oil, primed it and pumped some Marvels into the cylinders the other day. The next day I pumped some Brad Penn into the cylinders and let it soak a bit before rolling it over by hand a few times and then walked away again. I sent a camera into the cylinders and noted a light coat of rust in spots including some on the valves and seats before I started adding the oils into the cylinders. Next up the compression test, it was mediocre at best but definitely enough that it’ll run, oh yeah, the oil pressure is good at 50 lbs during the priming. My hope is that getting it running will knock the rest of the rust loose on the surfaces and the compression numbers will go up where I want them.
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