NO start NO lights fusible link OK

[MEV]

66 newyorker been perfect forever. Good battery, power thru bulkhead connector, power at key switch, power at fuses. cannot make it turn over shorting across terminals on starter relay. no interior lights, no horn, no power anything. ammeter plug had one bad terminal pin on three wire molex connector, but the large red and black wire going to the back of the gauge both have power. Forum search turned up, fusible link jumper from alt to starter relay terminal, did not work.

How can i have fuse power and no horn or dome light?

 

[68plymouth383]

Welcome to the forum! !

 

[commando1]

Welcome to the where the Best & the Brightest on all things C-body hang out.

I would look at the fuse box to start with. I have found fuse boxes that had "dead spots".
Are you getting juice going in AND out on both sides?

 

[68plymouth383]

I like that! ! Thank you

Welcome to the where the Best & the Brightest on all things C-body hang out.

 

[MEV]

Welcome to the where the Best & the Brightest on all things C-body hang out.

I would look at the fuse box to start with. I have found fuse boxes that had "dead spots".
Are you getting juice going in AND out on both sides?

the fuses are getting power, I will look at the outgoing side.

 

[Ironwolf]

Welcome to the where the Best & the Brightest on all things C-body hang out.

I would look at the fuse box to start with. I have found fuse boxes that had "dead spots".
Are you getting juice going in AND out on both sides?

Many time the bulkhead connector contacts on the engine compartment side get corroded and will give you many hours of hit & miss phantom electrical problems (electrical gremlins) ........ If your getting power on both sides of the fuse block and you may, you still may have a corrosion issues on the bulkhead. So just make sure the connections are good as power to each side of the fuse will give you a false sense of things being OK.

It could also be a bad ground somewhere causing this as well.

 

[Big_John]

Because of the failure to start with jumping the relay, I'm thinking your problem is under the hood.

You could have a bad battery or battery cable connection or bad battery cable. I'd visually check that, including pulling the battery connections at the battery. If that looks good, then check for voltage at the starter.

You could have a bad or high resistance cable or connection that still shows some voltage, but doesn't allow enough current to actually do something like start the car or blow the horn.

 

[MEV]

Because of the failure to start with jumping the relay, I'm thinking your problem is under the hood.

You could have a bad battery or battery cable connection or bad battery cable. I'd visually check that, including pulling the battery connections at the battery. If that looks good, then check for voltage at the starter.

You could have a bad or high resistance cable or connection that still shows some voltage, but doesn't allow enough current to actually do something like start the car or blow the horn.

battery cables and connections are new and the contacts are solid and clean, starter is a few weeks old, initially i thought i got a bad starter and swapped it yesterday, it had no effect.

 

[Big_John]

Did you check for voltage at the starter?

You can try jumping the connections at the starter. That may not solve any other problems, but it will tell you if the starter is good.

 

[MEV]

Ground. When I installed the performer RPM manifold I had to use the bolt hole on the head previously used by the battery ground cable for the appropriate throttle return spring bracket. I moved the ground to the exhaust stud. As the stock iron manifolds heat cycled the connection point failed.

 

[commando1]

Ground. When I installed the performer RPM manifold I had to use the bolt hole on the head previously used by the battery ground cable for the appropriate throttle return spring bracket. I moved the ground to the exhaust stud. As the stock iron manifolds heat cycled the connection point failed.

You lost me.
Could you be a little more elaborate? Thanks.

 

[66Monacovert]

Hi and welcome to the forum, when I had the same condition turned out to be my ballast resistor was bad..... John

 

[Big_John]

You lost me.
Could you be a little more elaborate? Thanks.

It sounds like he hooked the negative battery cable to a exhaust manifold stud. That didn't work out well for him.

With a bad/high resistance connection, he had enough current to show voltage, but not enough to power anything more than a voltmeter.

 

[MEV]

It sounds like he hooked the negative battery cable to a exhaust manifold stud. That didn't work out well for him.

With a bad/high resistance connection, he had enough current to show voltage, but not enough to power anything more than a voltmeter.

Bingo.

 

[commando1]

I knew that...

 

[68blackbird]

I knew that...

Sure you did Stan...you were merely asking for the rest of us knuckleheads, thanks.