OEM intake manifold?

That's a pretty good deal there but not ideal for lower RPM range as I'm sure you now. It is a good example of a what you can get for the price though.

But i like the Torker and Torker II.

I was just being a smart *** but that is a pretty good deal.
 
Would I be better off with an AVS?

I don't think anyone will disagree with me... The TQ works great when it's sorted out right, but getting it sorted out is sometimes a battle.

I've had TQs that worked great and loved them. I have one on my Chrysler right now that works... and that's about it. It will get replaced this spring.

Your choice... Besides the TQ, the AVS and AFB made by Edelbrock are very popular and Stan makes a real good case for stock.
 
Hey Stormer, I am not traveling unfortunately.I have been told to look for a '72 to '74 TQ ....model no. from 6090 to 6616 I think.If you have one of the early ones, what would you sell them to me for?Thanks,Mark
I have a 6454 TQ in a box if you are Interested.. Book says it is for a 1974 360 HP California manual transmission
 
I thought you had a 383, that won't work.

Good catch there Matt .. I was looking at the pretty intake and not the engine size. Kinda like when I look at a woman .. their audible text generator is not the first thing i see :)
 
Just posted over at FBBO and it's a 383 example .. if you contact him directly via PM he might even to $150 shipped

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http://www.forbbodiesonly.com/moparforum/showthread.php?65501-383-mopar-performance-i-ntake
 
Well, I pulled the trgger on a Carter AVS code# 4401s for $90. It is the oem carb for this application and appears to be in good nick.Now on to the manifold.:sFl_america2:

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RE: The carb.
I think a carb original to your car is best.
Not an off the shelf rebuilt from XYZ Carb Repair and Vinyl Siding, Inc. but one expertly restored (not rebuilt) by a specialist. And it will probably cost more than a Summit Edelbrock or Holley but those carbs out of the box suck anyway...
They are Universal carbs meaning that they were not designed for any specific car in the Universe.

I pulled the trgger on a Carter AVS code# 4401s
It is the oem carb for this application and appears to be in good nick
Somebody around here actually took my advice.
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Ross?:poke:
 
I just took a weak swing at buying a car & then sulked when I didn't get it. Was there more to learn? I'll take better notes...
 
Commando1...do you think I am better off in the long run with an Edelbrock Performer 383 #2186 or the OEM (2806301 or 2951666)original manifold?I have found either for less than $100.Thanks
 
Unless the OEM was originally a total POS in function (Read: Lean Burn), going OEM has always given me the least hassle that works best.
Ross would be 1/2 way through a FAST FI conversion on your car by now with another year of sorting through the last half.
 
Ross would be 1/2 way through a FAST FI conversion on your car by now with another year of sorting through the last half.

FAST EFI conversion takes one day & the computer does all the sorting out from there. It's pretty much fool proof but money doesn't grow on trees and that's not what onetwo is looking for.
 
Well, I found a really nice manifold for $40 so I am ahead of the game.I am going to get a carb rebuild kit from Mike's Carb Parts http://www.carburetor-parts.com/Carter-AVS-Carburetor-Kit-1968_p_660.html My question is about eliminating or blocknig off the heat crossover ports from the bottom of the manifold.This car will never see cold weather ever again.Has anyone done this here.Is there a special metal valley pan that does this or some other method?Will this help keep the carb cooler or is this just a waste of time? I was also thinking about putting a piece of modern engine bay thermal insulation between the carb and manifold....thoughts?

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