Power Window regulator removal 1969 300 vert

[pmschmitt]

i was planning to do Mr.Cs puck rebuild of my power window motors on my convertibles rear quarter windows. I have the FSM but am I bit confused on how this process works for window motor and regulator removal. Yes I know the regulator may break my fingers after removing the motor. Or so I've heard.

Question
Do I have to remove the windows to access the motor and regulators?
Do I follow the procedures to remove the glass, then remove the tracks, then the regulator? Seems like a huge PITA. Just wanted to be sure there wasn't a quicker method. Thanks

 

[rexus31]

I just went through this not too long ago. I recommend new motors.

This Past Weekend's Project...Never Again

 

[Big_John]

If you'd like to use something instead of the ground nuts, these rollers will work. Yes, the Fords used the same motors.

Ford Lincoln Mercury Power Window Regulator Motor Gear Plugs Pins Rollers-Delrin | eBay

Edit: Forgot the link.

 

[Dobalovr]

i was planning to do Mr.Cs puck rebuild of my power window motors on my convertibles rear quarter windows. I have the FSM but am I bit confused on how this process works for window motor and regulator removal. Yes I know the regulator may break my fingers after removing the motor. Or so I've heard.

Question
Do I have to remove the windows to access the motor and regulators?
Do I follow the procedures to remove the glass, then remove the tracks, then the regulator? Seems like a huge PITA. Just wanted to be sure there wasn't a quicker method. Thanks

I did not remove any window tracks but did remove the idler bracket and regulator assembly with the motor attached as one piece. I clamped the windows in the up position with blocks of wood and c-clamps. I drilled a hole through both sections of the regulator and bolted it in position to remove the motor. Of course these were front windows not rears but theory should be similar. Steel nuts worked great as pucks! Thanks Mr C! The rears can be a nightmare as Rexus says so good luck and post your progress..

 

[1970cat]

leave the window in, but warning: it is a tight miserable area to work in. there is a bracket that bolts to the motor. i think i removed that while the whole unit was in the quarter so i could get a better angle on things. it seems like one of the bolts was nearly impossible to get without doing this.

 

[LatPeahy]

I will be diving into the power windows in my 66 Newport so I will be following this one.

 

[rexus31]

I will be diving into the power windows in my 66 Newport so I will be following this one.

If you have a 'vert, your setup is similar, if not the same, as that in my '65.

 

[LatPeahy]

It's in my 66 nport 4dr htop. Passenger front window is down and won't go up. None of the others go down. I can hear the rear motors trying when I hit the switch but right now my priority is on the 65 NYr interior

 

[dart4forte]

It's in my 66 nport 4dr htop. Passenger front window is down and won't go up. None of the others go down. I can hear the rear motors trying when I hit the switch but right now my priority is on the 65 NYr interior

Hit mine today. 65 300 Vert. Passenger side quarter window. What a PIA. Took some work but I got it out. Next, tackle the motor

 

[Dobalovr]

Hit mine today. 65 300 Vert. Passenger side quarter window. What a PIA. Took some work but I got it out. Next, tackle the motor

The motors are easy getting them back in is hard...

 

[dart4forte]

The motors are easy getting them back in is hard...

I was kinda figuring that. I have everything soaking

 

[dart4forte]

Have to ask, what kind of grease is used on the rails

 

[pmschmitt]

So I am trying to strategize this ( probably just procrastinating) but can I leave the regulators in the car with the window clamped in the up position and remove the motor from the regulator?

Removing the motor should not unwind the spring on regulator since it is still attached to window and window is clamped up....correct?

I can then remove the motor and rebuild. The problem then becomes getting it re installed with the regulator still in the car.

I am planning to take pics and do a tutorial for those in the future as ignorant as myself.

Thanks in advance for all help

 

[dart4forte]

So I am trying to strategize this ( probably just procrastinating) but can I leave the regulators in the car with the window clamped in the up position and remove the motor from the regulator?

Removing the motor should not unwind the spring on regulator since it is still attached to window and window is clamped up....correct?

I can then remove the motor and rebuild. The problem then becomes getting it re installed with the regulator still in the car.

I am planning to take pics and do a tutorial for those in the future as ignorant as myself.

Thanks in advance for all help

Can't speak for the front doors but the quarter windows were a challange.

 

[rexus31]

So I am trying to strategize this ( probably just procrastinating) but can I leave the regulators in the car with the window clamped in the up position and remove the motor from the regulator?

Removing the motor should not unwind the spring on regulator since it is still attached to window and window is clamped up....correct?

I can then remove the motor and rebuild. The problem then becomes getting it re installed with the regulator still in the car.

I am planning to take pics and do a tutorial for those in the future as ignorant as myself.

Thanks in advance for all help

I did not remove the regulators when I did mine but I did wedge a 2x4 under the regulator incase the spring was wound in reverse; window should no come down if it is up and the spring is properly wound. It was a PITA to properly clock and mount the new motors but far less of a PITA if I had removed the regulators. As suggested, I would go with brand new Dorman motors. If one of the rebuilt motors fails, would you want to do it all over again?

 

[dart4forte]

I did not remove the regulators when I did mine but I did wedge a 2x4 under the regulator incase the spring was wound in reverse; window should no come down if it is up and the spring is properly wound. It was a PITA to properly clock and mount the new motors but far less of a PITA if I had removed the regulators. As suggested, I would go with brand new Dorman motors. If one of the rebuilt motors fails, would you want to do it all over again?

I'm glad I took everything out that way it can all be cleaned a lubed. I was thinking of just putting the arms in a vice and changing out the motor

 

[rexus31]

I'm glad I took everything out that way it can all be cleaned a lubed.

I already did all that when I restored the car.

One of the original motors failed and needed to be replaced so I went ahead and replaced both of them because I didn't want to rip out the entire rear interior (again) in the event the other motor failed. There was no need to remove the regulator in my scenario.

 

[1970cat]

i would suggest using something more than a clamp to hold the arms in place. i tried a c-clamp and the spring pressure pulled the arms out of the clamp with a bang. you don't want to lose fingers and rewinding that spring is a really tough job.

 

[rexus31]

i would suggest using something more than a clamp to hold the arms in place. i tried a c-clamp and the spring pressure pulled the arms out of the clamp with a bang. you don't want to lose fingers and rewinding that spring is a really tough job.

Agreed. I'd wedge a 2x4 in to hold the window up in the event the spring is wound the wrong way. If it is correctly wound, the window will not move in the up position. Better to be safe than sorry.

 

[pmschmitt]

Thanks all will let you know how it goes