Questionable Blue Streak Distributor Cap(?)

Ghostultramarine

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I picked up a distributor cap by Blue Streak today. It’s supposed to be the “premium” model CH409 but looking at the metal inside it looks very roughly made.

Not sure if the picture shows it but there is a lot of fine metal left that’s very thin and will undoubtedly break off; probably not a good thing.

Made in Mexico should not mean I have to rework it to make it useable.

The images online at OReillys show the same workmanship ...

https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/...reak-distributor-cap/std2/ch409?q=Ch409&pos=0
 
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Shoulda bought caps from our member here halifaxshops.
He has genuine Mopar tan caps for sale.
I have been using them with no problems.
 
The "BEST" ones have brass contacts, just like the points (if you have them). The cap shown looks fine. If the blue color bothers you then paint it on the outside.
 
That's not questionable, its a POS. Those burros on each terminal are begging to arc to the cap itself and cause carbon tracks. And the center terminal-a piece of tubing?
Return it.
 
If what you got bothers you, then return it. Otherwise, get a small screwdriver and knock off the bits of cuttings and plastic casting flash you don't like. Then blow things off with a strong "whoosh" or an air hose. Nothing there that should cause carbon tracks or similar, that I can see. I've cleaned-up new distributor caps before using them, even from Chrysler, back then.

Back then, BlueStreak was a decent "consumer" brand of ignition parts. Now, it's owned by somebody else. FWIW

Just some thoughts,
CBODY67
 
I called my local Dodge dealership and the young guy who answered the phone in the parts department was at a loss of how to find out if they order any distributor's and rotor's in.

He did say if there was a part number, the most recent, he could try to look that up.

Does anyone have the most recent part numbers for the distributor caps and rotors?
 
I was looking at a trunk seal for $20 usd from justmopars.com.

Added it to the cart, went to the checkout page.

$80 for shipping ...

That didn’t get ordered.

I was stoked when I thought Halifax referred to the Maritimes.

So I figured if there was a chance to get some at one of the local Chrysler dealerships that would be ace by saving on the shipping.
 
I called my local Dodge dealership and the young guy who answered the phone in the parts department was at a loss of how to find out if they order any distributor's and rotor's in.

He did say if there was a part number, the most recent, he could try to look that up.

Does anyone have the most recent part numbers for the distributor caps and rotors?

Might look in the Mopar Performance catalog. In either the "Ignition" or the "Restoration" section?
 
View attachment 466846 I picked up a distributor cap by Blue Streak today. It’s supposed to be the “premium” model CH409 but looking at the metal inside it looks very roughly made.

Not sure if the picture shows it but there is a lot of fine metal left that’s very thin and will undoubtedly break off; probably not a good thing.

Made in Mexico should not mean I have to rework it to make it useable.

The images online at OReillys show the same workmanship ...

https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/...reak-distributor-cap/std2/ch409?q=Ch409&pos=0

I tried a Blue Streak Ch409, identical in appearance to what you showed us, and it DESTROYED 3 ROTORS in short order before I threw it away. NEVER AGAIN WILL I TRUST MODERN STANDARD PRODUCTS!!! They've abandoned the workforce which gave them a trustworthy brand i pursuit of short term profits, and now make a worthless product. Again, DON'T BUY THE STANDARD BLUE STREAK CH409!!!

I found some good NOS Made in U.S.A. distributor caps, and bought enough for a decade or so of use.
 
I called my local Dodge dealership and the young guy who answered the phone in the parts department was at a loss of how to find out if they order any distributor's and rotor's in.

He did say if there was a part number, the most recent, he could try to look that up.

Does anyone have the most recent part numbers for the distributor caps and rotors?

The sonewhat unfortunate reality is that just because somebody works in a dealership parts department does NOT automatically give them a complete knowledge of things which happened before they might have been born. KEY is to find someone who will ask and look to increase their knowledge, from my experiences. BUT the same orientation of "not knowing" can also happen with "new-to-the-business" individuals, whether at dealerships, auto supply stores, or vendors. Been there, done that.

Just some observations,
CBODY67
 
Standard definitely went downhill the last five years. locally NAPA usually has quality caps. Personally I wont touch any brand made after 1980 personally.
 
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I just bought one too assuming it'd be a good and nostalgic choice. Mine is ugly too, would at least want to dress those down so it doesn't beat up the rotor.
But it's dangerous to say on a forum here to not trust anything made after 1980. For the sake of people young in the hobby reading this, I've built plenty of reliability and performance into my cars with modern parts and recently manufactured replacement parts. There were plenty of bad parts in the old days too.

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Here's a question to the FCBO hive-mind:

Why can't one just clean up a used distributor cap and rotor with emery cloth and carbon cleaner? Wouldn't that work?
 
If not physically worn or cracked sure. They are cheap to replace if a good one can be sourced
 
Here's a question to the FCBO hive-mind:

Why can't one just clean up a used distributor cap and rotor with emery cloth and carbon cleaner? Wouldn't that work?
Ross,

That WORKS FINE, for several iterations, which is why I keep good brass/copper stuff when replacing. We Impoverished Junkies often DO things like that as a matter of fact.

BUT:

Regarding electrical contacts, and conductive surfaces, a few basic physical realities must be kept in mind.

1) Surface irregularities cause irregular, undesirable electrical behavior! Since distributors deal with voltages ranging from ~20 kV-100kV, meaning the dielectric breakdown distances in the system will be on orders of kilovolts/millimeter, differences in contact thickness around the top of the cap result in different spark voltages delivered to the plugs at the cylinder. This variation in turn translates to some cylinders failing to fire as well as others, leading to carbon buildup, rough running, suboptimal performance all around the engine.

SO: One must exercise the UTMOST CARE when cleaning the contact surfaces inside the distributor cap, to insure the most homogeneous spark distribution. Given the nature of distributor caps, very few people possess the necessary tools to insure the degree of uniformity required for a cleaned, "remanufactured" distributor cap, and until recently had no financial incentive to attempt a good cleaning and careful contact polishing on a used cap.

NOW, and in the foreseeable future, TIMES BE A CHANGIN'!

As sociopath internationalist crapitalists run amok seeking ever more servile slave populations to exploit for short term super-profits, quality of newly manufactured or manu-FRACTURED OEM replacement parts will continue to plummet Hellbound, resulting in shortages of acceptable quality parts. This trend forces us to either manufacture brand new distributor parts for ourselves, or at least RE-manufacture them from old, gently used stock. I've done so since the purchase of my first V8 in 1979, and learned by 1987 enough to refurbish the electro-mechanical parts of a 1960s U.S. made car to a very useful degree.

Be this as it may, I never have been able to wring more than 2 further use cycles from a GOOD distributor cap, rotor, breaker points or spark plug, and seldom more than 1 additional use cycle. The conductor material always gets burned away, and the surfaces can NEVER be returned to original Off The Shelf quality. I mentioned 1987, as I then worked in an industrial maintenance shop for a year, repairing VERY OLD, OBSOLETE EUROPEAN MACHINERY, and had access to tools, and excellent instruction in these arts.

So,

YES, we CAN extend the useful life expectancy of our electro-mechanical ignition components by as much as 200%, though in practice, obtaining even 100% re-use time should seldom be expected. Settle for 50% and be content with saving yourselves that much $$. I do. This in total honesty is ONE OF THE MAIN REASONS I DRIVE OLD 1960s MOPARS: I CAN get EXTRA SERVICE from the entire vehicle by some time honored techniques which I pray won't be forgotten by today's electronic entertainment maddened youth.

The shining example of Mathilda, and the genuine affection she engenders in youngsters even today gives me grounds for hope in this.
 
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