removing drum brakes

[newport64]

If the master cylinder was dry, then there is a good chance you have a leak somewhere...probably the wheel cylinders, or maybe a steel brake line. I would replace the master cylinder, and the wheel cylinders at the least. Check the drum braking surface, and brake shoes and make a call from there. But pulling the entire brake set up, and giving it a good cleaning is a must as well. But only do one side at a time...that way you have the other side for reference when putting things back together.

As for the rear drums. You need a special puller to get those hubs off. You need to remove the cotter pin and nut, then install the puller using 3 or the 5 lug nuts. Then start cranking on the puller. This can sometimes be a bit of an ordeal, since they usually get a little water and rust together. You can start soaking with PB Blaster, and cycle heating the hub until they pop loose. But make sure you put the nut on just a couple threads...sometimes when these hubs come loose they come off like a shot gun!

Here is the tool you need....

http://www.plymouthbulletin.com/rearbrakes.htm

can I replace parts and have useable brakes in just the front without messing with the rear? I would like to get the front brakes working before I tackle the rear. Is this doable? also, where is this puller available?

 

[66SportFury]

First spray with PB blaster,..then take a line wrench and remove the steel line from the rubber hose line,... BUT if you see the steel line start to twist,... stop!!

Spray the steel line with PB blaster at the fitting and let it sit for a bit,..then remove the clip that holds the rubber hose to the bracket and push the steel line through the hole. Take a line wrench and an open end wrench. Put the open end wrench on the rubber hose side and the line wrench on the steel line side and remove the rubber hose from the steel line,...twisting the rubber line off the steel line. It's best to do it this way until the fitting frees up from the PB blaster on the steel line. Hope this isn't confusing??

How long has this car sat?
By the looks of those brake parts and backing plates it looks like a while. IMO,..I would replace everything and clean the backing plates really well. After the backing plates are clean, you'll want to take some high temp grease and lube the contact points on those backing plates. Also make sure there are no grooves cut into the backing plates from the brake shoes,... if so you'll need to replace those too.

 

[newport64]

First spray with PB blaster,..then take a line wrench and remove the steel line from the rubber hose line,... BUT if you see the steel line start to twist,... stop!!

Spray the steel line with PB blaster at the fitting and let it sit for a bit,..then remove the clip that holds the rubber hose to the bracket and push the steel line through the hole. Take a line wrench and an open end wrench. Put the open end wrench on the rubber hose side and the line wrench on the steel line side and remove the rubber hose from the steel line,...twisting the rubber line off the steel line. It's best to do it this way until the fitting frees up from the PB blaster on the steel line. Hope this isn't confusing??

How long has this car sat?
By the looks of those brake parts and backing plates it looks like a while. IMO,..I would replace everything and clean the backing plates really well. After the backing plates are clean, you'll want to take some high temp grease and lube the contact points on those backing plates. Also make sure there are no grooves cut into the backing plates from the brake shoes,... if so you'll need to replace those too.

It has sat at least 10 years in the texas weather. I am unsure of when it was last running. Ill try the pbblaster route. I think the metal lines are good, it's just I can even get it to turn. The nut fitting on the steel line side is kind of getting stripped so its kind of hard to turn. I was using a crescent but have had no luck.

 

[MrMoparCHP]

It has sat at least 10 years in the texas weather. I am unsure of when it was last running. Ill try the pbblaster route. I think the metal lines are good, it's just I can even get it to turn. The nut fitting on the steel line side is kind of getting stripped so its kind of hard to turn. I was using a crescent but have had no luck.

Get yourself some tube wrenches or at least the one needed for the brake lines (it is the only one I have)
They may a big difference.

 

[Fratzog]

Throw away the cresent wrench and use line wrenches...

 

[70bigblockdodge]

Put a little heat on it with a propane torch do not use a regular torch and also wear gogles as the fluid burns skin eyes whatever remember your heating a closed system when bleeder or line breaks loose fluid will come out and burn you. Also if you heat fittings on wheel cylinder remove the dust caps pistons and seals they don't do well with heat if you can't get the pistons out by pushing them through you need a wheel cylinder. Replace master cyl as your system is a single circuit one part fails your a projectile with steering.

 

[Big_John]

I'd replace everything. New springs, hold downs, shoes and wheel cylinders. Get a new inner seal for the wheel bearings and take them apart and repack them. That is a must.

If the front brakes need that much work, the back brakes are gonna be just as bad.

You can cut the rubber hose right above the fitting and apply heat to the hose fitting. Use a line wrench and lose the cresent wrench. Really, there's not a lot of stuff that you want to use that cresent wrench for anyway. Work the fitting back and forth until it breaks free.

 

[66SportFury]

It has sat at least 10 years in the texas weather. I am unsure of when it was last running. Ill try the pbblaster route. I think the metal lines are good, it's just I can even get it to turn. The nut fitting on the steel line side is kind of getting stripped so its kind of hard to turn. I was using a crescent but have had no luck.

Wow 10 years!! Don't use open end wrenches ever on brake lines, big no no. Anyway, do it like I said above. By looking at the pictures above, you'll need a 3/8 line wrench for that brake line. Pop the clip the holds the rubber line to the bracket. After that push the steel line and rubber line at the same time since their still connected together through the hole in the bracket. Then use your line wrench on the steel line and an open end wrench or cut the rubber hose close to the metal part and use a socket to remove the rubber line from the brake steel line. This way you won't twist the threaded part off the steel line. Hope you understand what I mean??

BTW, you'll need to clean out the fuel tank and lines before thinking of starting the car! Also use premium gas and Startron. Just sayin!!

 

[70bigblockdodge]

Yes crescent wrench is for bending metal or plumbing your kitchen sink, maybe waaap a would be robber looking to steal your classic mopar but only if its a big one. LOL

 

[newport64]

Yes crescent wrench is for bending metal or plumbing your kitchen sink, maybe waaap a would be robber looking to steal your classic mopar but only if its a big one. LOL

Got the line wrench and got one side off. Did too much damage on the other side. It's pretty stripped. What are my options?

You can even see the line started to bend as I tried. I tried popping off the clip and failed.

 

[Big_John]

Looks to me like you'll be replacing that steel line. You may get lucky and your local NAPA will have pre-made line in a length that's close to the piece that's screwed up.

 

[thrashingcows]

can I replace parts and have useable brakes in just the front without messing with the rear? I would like to get the front brakes working before I tackle the rear. Is this doable? also, where is this puller available?

Many will advise you to tackle all the brakes at the same time....I have to agree as well. This is bar none the most important part of your vehicle for safety.

The pullers are not common nowdays....you might luck out and find someone local who has one and is willing to loan it too you. If not then you can go to E-bay and look there. Try searching for "drum puller". There are some cheap harbor freight type pullers...who some claim work well enough. But if your drums are really stuck on there then you will more then likely destroy the cheap off shore puller trying to free things up.

I purchased a puller last year...since my 48 Desoto runs those style rear drums as well. I got it off ebay for I think under $50. It's an old, vintage HD style unit...not exactly like the one I pictured, but same basic function.

 

[bluefury361]

You may want to concider changing out the entire rear axle with a 65 or later unit. They did away with the tapered axles. No special pullers needed to remove drums. Some of those pre 65 brake parts can be tough to locate, the later parts are still avaliable at most parts outlets.

The axles share a lot of crossover with other C bodys and are easy and cheap to locate. You can change one over in a couple of hours. I'm getting ready to change the axle in my 69 300 from an open 2:92 too a 3:23 sure grip. I'd just give you the pull out axle.

FYI...... trans fluid and acitone mixed 50/50 is the best penetrating fluid you can get.

 

[commando1]

It's pretty stripped. What are my options?

 

[detmatt]

Nice work Stan! This is one reason that we have wintertime here in MI, several months that you have to replace the entire system without being upset you can't drive the car because of it.

 

[bluefury361]

This is one reason that we have wintertime here in MI, several months that you have to replace the entire system without being upset you can't drive the car because of it.

That is the drawback to having an 11 1/2 month driving season. No time for downtime...!

Having two or more cars almost assures you will have something to drive....

ld_school:

 

[newport64]

couldnt I just cut right behind the stripped fitting? also checked with autozone and they dont carry these fittings. I assume its 3/8 line and 3/8 male and female connectors? found copper line online but would like to put whatever type is stock.

 

[thrashingcows]

Believe the brake line size is 3/16" ? Bring the old fitting down to the auto parts store and they can hook you up with the right line. And copper is a NO NO!!

 

[commando1]

You can cut anywhere you want...
Just showing you the way I would do it.
I wouldn't want to shorten the brake line. You have to keep it loose to prevent stress cracking.

+

checked with autozone and they dont carry these fittings

BULLCHIT! That is exactly where you buy them from. AutoZone, Advance, NAPA, Carquest...
You talked to an idiot.

 

[1978 NYB]

You can cut anywhere you want...
Just showing you the way I would do it.
I wouldn't want to shorten the brake line. You have to keep it loose to prevent stress cracking.

+

BULLCHIT! That is exactly where you buy them from. AutoZone, Advance, NAPA, Carquest...
You talked to an idiot.

Yep, all of them have Standard and Metric in the store in the Parts Department.