Replacing shocks...any tips?

PM27G0D

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It's time to finally install the shocks on this '70 Fury. I have changed quite a few shocks on B and E bodies and the rears look about the same configuration on this car.
when I had all the wheels off the other day, I was looking at how the front shocks are mounted compared to what I'm more familiar with. I have seen references on the net as to what a pain front C body shocks are to change.
any tips on procedure for making this as painless as it's possible to be?
 
Do you have the factory service manual for the car? That's always the best place to start. I know for sure you will need to remove the rubber bump stop to gain the downward travel and on the driver's side some further disassembly may be necessary.
 
The old ones should compress, and stay small enough to slip out. The new front shocks come without straps. Compress them on the floor, and use zip ties to hold them down. You don't need to take any of the front end apart. Once the new shocks are in cut the tip ties.
 
I had to take my drivers side apart. I think I unbolted the spindle so I didn't have to mess with the ball joint. Believe me I messed with it for quite some time and there was physically no way that shock was going in on my '67 Imp.. Maybe different on a '70.
 
For the fronts, install OEM type HD shocks and they slip right in. They work fine on a C-body.
I disagree with the trend to installing shocks the size of a small glass pack thinking their yacht will handle like an AAR Cuda.
 
I used replacement style shocks and still had to dismantle.
 
They used the same front end arrangement as the slabsides do...... now d bodys are a completely different animal. That's why Matt had to disassemble the front suspension.
 
The Plymouth fury can be a pain, I have done a few of these but the only preparation before slipping it in from below is to make sure the shock is fully compressed before sliding it up and in.
 
the only preparation before slipping it in from below is to make sure the shock is fully compressed before sliding it up and in.
I don't understand why it needs to even be brought up.
Like gapping new spark plugs.
It's just the way to do it...
 
Well, the consensus seems to be that it's not that bad...if no "funny" shocks are involved. Just looking at the way they seem to fit inside a "tube" made me wonder about having to disassemble anything. The front shocks on it now are white (and rust), and have an old Mopar sticker on them, so hopefully they are not larger than stock and will come out easily.
I bought new shocks for this car, soon after I got it in 2006, as it was obvious it needed them. I think I went with the "sorta close to OE" looking black gas shocks that are commonly used as replacements on B and E bodies by my Mopar buddies....Gabriel Classics. Good project for next week.
Now, to remember where I put 'em!
 
Well, the consensus seems to be that it's not that bad...if no "funny" shocks are involved. Just looking at the way they seem to fit inside a "tube" made me wonder about having to disassemble anything. The front shocks on it now are white (and rust), and have an old Mopar sticker on them, so hopefully they are not larger than stock and will come out easily.
I bought new shocks for this car, soon after I got it in 2006, as it was obvious it needed them. I think I went with the "sorta close to OE" looking black gas shocks that are commonly used as replacements on B and E bodies by my Mopar buddies....Gabriel Classics. Good project for next week.
Now, to remember where I put 'em!

Take pictures and report back.........
 
Do you have the factory service manual for the car? That's always the best place to start. I know for sure you will need to remove the rubber bump stop to gain the downward travel and on the driver's side some further disassembly may be necessary.
I just replaced the shocks on my '68 Newport last month and had to remove that rubber bump stop on the upper control arm.

The old shocks still had just enough compression left in them that they wouldn't come out. I simply pushed them back up in the hole and cut off the shaft from the top side with an angle grinder.
 
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