Resuming a project after nine years!

Wrenchygeorgie

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Hello all,
Another Newport restoration in progress here.

Started buying parts ten years less educated in reality.
Refreshed the cylinder heads, TTI full 3 inch exhaust and headers, Edelbrock 383 performer intake and a Demon Carb,
Bouchilon kick down cable set up, MSD Pro Billet distributor, aluminum water pump housing and waterpump.

I'm going through the suspension cleaning now thinking about what advantage there would be if any to using PST upper control arms.
My reasoning highly motivated by the less labor involved in just unbolting the control arm and replacing it.

The original arms and balljoints are in undamaged condition but the bushings are needing to be replaced.
What's Your opinion?

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Car looks like a good candidate. The engine paint was turquoise when new. No blue about it.
 
We have '67-'68 Chrysler parts if you need to buy anything for the car. Rust free '68 2 door rear quarter, trunk lid, torsion bars, axle shafts, gauges, mirrors, sunvisors, grille, steering wheels, 2 bbl intake & carbs, emblems, trim, power window parts, wiring, etc.
 
I guess it comes down to time vs money, but in my experience, UCA bushings are probably the single easiest part of redoing a front end.
 
I guess it comes down to time vs money, but in my experience, UCA bushings are probably the single easiest part of redoing a front end.
Yep and you likely won’t buy a new ball joint that’s better in quality than what’s on there now. Remove the UCA,s replace the bushings and flush all the old grease from the ball joint and re-grease.
 
Hello all,
Another Newport restoration in progress here.

Started buying parts ten years less educated in reality.
Refreshed the cylinder heads, TTI full 3 inch exhaust and headers, Edelbrock 383 performer intake and a Demon Carb,
Bouchilon kick down cable set up, MSD Pro Billet distributor, aluminum water pump housing and waterpump.

I'm going through the suspension cleaning now thinking about what advantage there would be if any to using PST upper control arms.
My reasoning highly motivated by the less labor involved in just unbolting the control arm and replacing it.

The original arms and balljoints are in undamaged condition but the bushings are needing to be replaced.
What's Your opinion?

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9 years later. Welcome back.
Glad to see someone else building hot rod Chryslers.
 
Yep and you likely won’t buy a new ball joint that’s better in quality than what’s on there now. Remove the UCA,s replace the bushings and flush all the old grease from the ball joint and re-grease.
Solid advice, exactly what i was seeking.
Hear a lot of talk about an increase in caster with the aftermarket arms by changed geometry from a relocation of the ball joint farther back, (looks almost like zero caster now). This, and the bolt on and go, are a big seller for final outcome, my only reservation being i have never seen a control arm fail unless there was a fairly serious accident involved.
What you mention about the steel quality also is a big consideration as well.
I cant see much of a difference in weight being any sort of bonus, even as "a decrease of unsprung weight"; although i admit it sounds "racey".
Appreciate your input!
 
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