Ride Height?

ArnieJr

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Should there be any differential between the front and rear ride height? I have a 69 300 and always noticed a bit of a rake in the car's profile. I remember the revious owner telling me he had planned to make it a low-rider (to each his own...) and may have already begun by lowering the front.

Measuring ground to the bottom of the car nearest respective wheel wells, the back is 9 inches and the front is eight (25 inches to the fender lip). This is on 225/75R15s.

Also, I know the front ride height is a simple matter of adjusting the torsion bars. How is the rear height adjusted (leaf springs and shocks)?

left side.jpg
 
I think thewide whites make the car seem lower. The back looks correct, but the front seems slightly low. Here are some photos from the 1969 Chrysler catalog for you to compare
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The front looks too low. I would adjust it to factory spec if someone here can tell you what that is. The rear can't be adjusted. You would have to replace the springs. I've had good luck using those shocks with coil springs built into them for raising the back. Disclaimer: if the leaf springs are worn out, it's best to replace them, shock mounts weren't really made to carry the weight of the car.
That being said, I think the rear looks OK in your picture.
 
Your driveway has a slight slope to it. You'll need to take your measurements from a level surface. I think it looks great as is. Wish it was parked in my drive.
 
The front torsion bars can be adjusted to get change the ride height.
The Factory Service Manual defines a measurement difference between the lower ball joint and the lower control arm pivot.
The specified measurement may not work as the rear may have sagged over the years or has been modified.
Adjusting the torsion bars should be done with the weight off the front wheels.
Turning the adjuster in (tightening) will raise the car, out (loosening) will lower it.
You should run the car around the block between adjustments.


Alan
 
Here's my general rule of thumb . . . the rocker panel needs to be parallel to the ground (flat surface). If you look at factory pictures, you'll also see that if you extend a line from the lower rocker panel side through each of the wheels on that side, there is a general relationship of where that line crossed the center of the wheel cover/hub cap, too.

Then follow the procedure in the FSM to ensure the front end is at the correct height on each side. If the rear is low after doing this, then some way to raise the rear can be investigated.

Several of the earlier Fuselage cars' body designs have a natural wedge to them. Lowering the front a slight bit can accentuate that. BUT, there are consequences for lower the front end NOT related to the way things look.

First thing is that lowering the front suspension ride height results in a softer ride rate for the front suspension. Just as raising the level results in a stiffer ride rate. Just the nature of torsion bars.

The other thing is that lowering or raising the bars can affect front end alignment, especially effective caster (which helps the car go in a straight line and self-centers the steering wheel after a turn). Not to forget that the decreased ride height can make the front end bottom out sooner on a dip or big bump.

On Fuselage cars, lowering the front also raises the level of the rear bumper. Which can put the fuel tank in a bit more peril in case of a rear end collision. That rear valence panel is the main thing between the rear body and the fuel tank. Unlike the Slabs which came before them.

Personally, at my semi-advancing age, I remember when Chryslers were about "road cars" and not "profiling boulevard cars" (think GM cars from the '50s and '60s with their soft suspensions!). The natural cruising speed of our '66 Newport (factory a/c) turned out to be 75-90mph. Below 75, it was bored. Over 90, the factory suspension got "busy", even with HD shocks. And . . . it was fun to drive around corners that would leave a Ford (especially) with squealing front tires and GMs with massive body lean, just trying to keep up . . . if they could. All while providing a firm but comfortable ride. And, with the 2.76 rear axle ratio, the engine was at or near the top of the torque curve, so engine response was good, as was fuel economy.

Yes, I like wheel travel so the suspension bump stops are used very rarely, if ever. Front and rear.

One thing which Chryslers tend to have, which other brands do not, is longer front and rear overhangs of the body. Which means they might scrape the bumpers quicker on driveway approaches. Just as a lowered ride height can "high center" over humps. Each requiring driving into and over those things differently. BTAIM

Until you've driven Chrysler Corp cars for hours at a time on the Interstate or state highways, noticing how the steering reacts, how tight the throttle response can be, and how the car likes what it's doing, plus comparing that to similar Ford or GM cars, you might not fully appreciate what makes a Chrysler product a Chrysler product. The great road cars they were and still are.

But if most of your driving is in a metro area, many of these attributes just vanish as the car is more of an appliance than a neat vehicle to drive. No issues with "hot soak re-start" while running down the road at 75mph, for example. As civilization expands, as to the metro areas, more "slow speed" highways rather than "open roads". "Slow speed" roads where any car can do well.

Y'all enjoy!
CBODY67
 
FWIW, this is a pic I took a while ago to answer a similar question. This is my '70 300. I installed new springs that were "stock' height a few years ago.

As you can see, the fender lip is about even with the rim edge. Looking at the entire car, it looks a little lower... Camera perspective being the difference and why you can't got too much from some pics. The upper pic of the wheel well were taken a few years after the lower pic. Both after the new springs were installed.

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Most of them had a very slight rake, higher from the rear...

Yes, lowering or raising the front is a matter of torsion bar adjustment (which will mess with your alignment), and there are measurements in your shop manual for that.

Lowering or raising a leaf spring suspension from the rear - there is no "adjustability" built into that design. Once can change the height by adding shackles or lowering blocks:

1) LOWERING THE REAR: blocks can be placed between the rear axle housing and the leaves themselves - the leaves stay in the same position, but the axle sits higher by the thickness of the block above the leaf springs, and hence, higher up INTO the body of the car, effectively lowering the car. You will need longer U bolts.

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1) RAISING THE REAR: shackles that are longer can be placed on the rear spring hangers, raising the car up. These weaken the suspension strength, and are not recommended. The points at which your leaf springs are bolted to the car are designed with a certain amount of pivot and flex - extending those puts exponentionally greater amounts of those forces into play, potentially with bad results.

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1) RAISING THE REAR: shackles that are longer can be placed on the rear spring hangers, raising the car up. These weaken the suspension strength, and are not recommended. The points at which your leaf springs are bolted to the car are designed with a certain amount of pivot and flex - extending those puts exponentionally greater amounts of those forces into play, potentially with bad results.
1693859544505.png


Plus you have to carry all those rabbits.

 
Should there be any differential between the front and rear ride height? I have a 69 300 and always noticed a bit of a rake in the car's profile. I remember the revious owner telling me he had planned to make it a low-rider (to each his own...) and may have already begun by lowering the front.

Measuring ground to the bottom of the car nearest respective wheel wells, the back is 9 inches and the front is eight (25 inches to the fender lip). This is on 225/75R15s.

Also, I know the front ride height is a simple matter of adjusting the torsion bars. How is the rear height adjusted (leaf springs and shocks)?

View attachment 614892
So I crawled under car and my biggest socket (7/8) wouldn't fit. What size are those things?
 
So I crawled under car and my biggest socket (7/8) wouldn't fit. What size are those things?
Off hand, I can't remember what size, but if your biggest socket is 7/8, you are probably using a 3/8 drive ratchet and that's not gonna be enough wrench.

Jack the car up to take the weight off is the first step... Next a 1/2 drive socket with a breaker bar will be the best bet if you don't have an impact wrench.
 
I want to drop my front end about an inch.....prob the sag in rear, but who knows at this point. But, does anyone have an idea of how many turns of torsion bar adjuster for an inch.....thanks
 
So I just got motivated, and before raising, jounced the front end and measured the height. Raised front and backed off the RF torsion bar adjust 3/4 turn, and LF 1/2. Lowered car and no msd diff.....oh well. Earlier today, I drove to the dump that has nice flat asphalt. The RF appeared to be higher by msg to the top of the tire. And, I thought it could take an inch to begin to level the car. So, I will drive again to the dump and this time measure on the nice flat surface after my first adjust.
 
Have finished adjust for now....car pretty level. After 2 3/4 turns on LF and 3/4 on RF, the fender height is close to 27 inches. The front tires are currently 205 70 15 that are 26 dia. with about 30 psi. So, to move the front about an inch, I had to move one side almost 3 turns of the screw.
 
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