Seeking expertise

[detmatt]

I have had a worsening raw fuel smell from the engine room in the LHS so I finally made some time to handle it. I'm pretty sure the leak was from old worn out injector o rings but as long as I had it this far apart I thought it best to replace the lower intake gasket as well. There's actually a pretty good forum that I've been lurking on for tech advice and that's where the advise came from to do the lower gasket as it regularly dries out and causes performance issues. This car was having some of those too along with the leak. After acquiring an fsm for the car from Ebay I figured I'd be armed and ready for the project. I think the repair will go smoothly aside from this...one of the intake bolts snapped as I applied pressure on it, in fact it almost happened twice. Two of the bolts extend into cooling passages and breakage isn't uncommon. How would you guys/gal(s) suggest getting the rest of this bolt out of the aluminum head? Been soaking it with PB Blaster, hitting the surrounding area with torch and tapping on it hoping to brake the bond since yesterday and it's still not budging.

 

[cm23uoc]

I had success welding a nut up on the stump, just filling the hole up with a strong spot weld, then try to screw it out while the bolt is still hot from welding.

 

[jake]

x2

 

[65sporty]

Welding a nut on it is a good idea, after it's on there tap the stud with a hammer to help loosen it in the head. Vice grips work also if you don't have access to a welder

 

[65sporty]

I forgot to add look really close at the injectors some of the 3.5 chry would have a split in the plastic body of the injector

 

[detmatt]

Thanks gents! Good idea, I can do that. I did similar when I had to remove the stripped out hex plug to get at my fuel pump pushrod. I do hate welding in an engine compartment though...
after I started the thread I mixed up a 50/50 acetone and atf and began soaking with that. I have time as its winter beater number two.

 

[BIGBARNEYCARS]

Matt. Find and buy a stick of BEES WAX. Not the stuff that grandma used to seal her jamz 'n jellyz with but real bees wax. Using your Propane torch and not your acetylene torch unless you want to replace the head too 'cuz aluminum meltz @ about 1150*s. Get that bolt as hot as you can and then push that stick of Beez Wax down on that bolt 'til it touches the head count to 3 and then back it off and wait ah little. The Bees Wax should over ride the crap going on between dissimilar metals and wick in. I've been using that Beez Wax trick for yearz for removing studz 'n boltz that don't wanna cooperate from cast iron blockz. No reason to believe it won't work between steal and aluminum too, Jer

 

[cm23uoc]

Never heard about this Option, hope I remember next time I'm stuck with a bolt. ;)

 

[detmatt]

I forgot to add look really close at the injectors some of the 3.5 chry would have a split in the plastic body of the injector

Those bitches were hard to get out of the rails and I did end up breaking the first one that I tried to remove. I managed to get the rest out in one piece and all the injectors are back in the rails after cleaning them and putting new o rings on the injectors.

 

[detmatt]

Matt. Find and buy a stick of BEES WAX. Not the stuff that grandma used to seal her jamz 'n jellyz with but real bees wax. Using your Propane torch and not your acetylene torch unless you want to replace the head too 'cuz aluminum meltz @ about 1150*s. Get that bolt as hot as you can and then push that stick of Beez Wax down on that bolt 'til it touches the head count to 3 and then back it off and wait ah little. The Bees Wax should over ride the crap going on between dissimilar metals and wick in. I've been using that Beez Wax trick for yearz for removing studz 'n boltz that don't wanna cooperate from cast iron blockz. No reason to believe it won't work between steal and aluminum too, Jer

I do have a block of pure beeswax here and I tried it but I'll try it again.

 

[commando1]

I still get the upmost success with ATF thinned with Acetone. What it has done for me has shocked me a few times trying to free something.

 

[70bigblockdodge]

Disconnect battery before welding, easy to forget.

 

[detmatt]

Disconnect battery before welding, easy to forget.

No worries, that was the first step in dismantling the fuel injection.

 

[1978 NYB]

Work the stud back and forth a 1/4 turn at a time. I find that easiest to get stubborn bolts out of aluminum.

 

[detmatt]

I've been trying to work it back and forth but it still hasn't budged. I'll try again in the morning and then again after work and if it still hasn't moved I'll bust out the Miller on Saturday and show it whose boss.

 

[zapcan59]

Lloyds Moovit is great for frozen bolts. detmatt, are you familiar with marshallmotorsclassics.com in Jackson Mi.? They've got some old mopars for sale.

 

[detmatt]

No but I just looked and they've got some interesting stuff.
http://www.marshallmotors.org/mobile/mdefault.aspx?ordby=make&pordby=make&cursort=asc&curpage=4

 

[bulldogchesty]

This looks interesting. Never tried it.http://crcindustries.com/auto/?s=05002

 

[cm23uoc]

Disconnect battery before welding, easy to forget.

It's usually even recommended to disconnect the Computers for iginition/fi with These newer Jobs.
I forgot that more often than once though and never had any damages.

 

[65sporty]

This looks interesting. Never tried it.http://crcindustries.com/auto/?s=05002

I've used it, mixed results. I never had any luck with the bees wax trick, I know guys who have though. Anyone out there try Gibbs? It's red in color and looks like thin atf, kind of like the atf-acetone mix