Payton Mitchell
Member
Started tearing into the motor in my NYB tonight. Planning on swapping out the steel intake for a aluminum
edelbrock and a hei disburtor.
edelbrock and a hei disburtor.
Started working on motor in my NYB tonight.
- Thread starter Payton Mitchell
- Start date
Strongly suggest that you put the distributor back in it, tape of the top of the carb and pressure wash the top end so you don't drop lots of dirt/debris into the valley.
Dave
Payton Mitchell
Member
Thank you was gonna use shop vac and get alot of it off as well.
Wire brush the top of the intake pots and then vacuum. Crap falling in the ports is hard to get out and can leave you with intake valves that do not seat. Leave the end cap bolts in place on the valley cover as this will catch crap from falling in the valley. After you have removed all the debris, you can then remove the valley cover.
Dave
The 1975 Mopar ignition has similar performance and it is native to a Mopar application.
Dave
You are going to have a lot of vacuum tubing and port switches that are no longer going to be relevant. You need to keep the branch fitting for the power brake unit, it should have a small port to operate the in-dash A/C heater control. If it does not have one, you will need to figure out a way to run that accessory off of manifold vacuum the 70-71 manifold port for power brakes will work for that. Are you going to retain the EGR valve (not recommended)? If so, you will need a ported vacuum switch that is temperature controlled and runs off of throttle plate vacuum. Be sure your manifold has the proper ports if you are going to use this option. Some cruise control units also require a vacuum input, if so run it appropriately. Run the PVC valve off of the provided port on the base of your aftermarket carb.
Dave
Dave
Payton Mitchell
Member
Thanks alot man may have you text me
You also appear to have an emission control carbon canister port. These can be run thru the same intake port as the PCV valve but controlled by a temp switch so that fuel vapors do not collect in the engine.
Dave
Dave
Are you putting the ac compressor back on? If you are.....take a grinder and grind off enough metal on the bracket next to the left side thermostat bolt enough so you can get a socket on the bolt. Believe me.....you'll have to remove the compressor in the future if you plan on replacing the thermostat down the road for any reason. Grind that bracket a little and the thermostat replacement will be a 15 minute job instead of hours because you'll have to take the compressor off to get to the left side bolt.
FYI At the Chrysler dealership, we put a crow bar under the bracket, it has enough give to get the thermostat housing to clear.
Dave
commando1
Old Man with a Hat
Fratzog
Old Man with a Hat
Simple but effective...
I'll concur that the clean-off should already have happened, at this point. Not only to keep unwanted debris from getting somewhere it shouldn't be, BUT to also decrease your hands getting dirty and fingerprinting everything you touch.
Obviously, the evap emissions connections can be used with different vac signal sources of the same signal. Other things can be cleaned up, too, in the process.
After watching the HEI from the late '70s on GM vehicles, there ARE some issues they have that many might not be aware of, like the carbon connector between the oil and the rotor wearing out. Of the need for the coil to be grounded!
At the time the HEI was conceived and introduced, the issue of a "high voltage/energy" ignition system was the way everybody was looking back then. The orig design orientation was to fire a .100" plug gap, except that past .080", plug wire condition became very important. GM had some Olds engines that were originally spec'd at .060" gaps, but were later decreased as other issues of plug fouling of new cars on the lot were encountered. The "big cap adapters" from MSD and the similar Ford "big cap systems" would support the increased voltages (and internal ozone production!), but needed venting so mis-fires would not happen. The 8mm plug wires were a part of this mix, too.
As things have evolved, that extra fire-power was not needed as greater control of fuel mixtures evolved with FI and such. Therefore, no need for the "big cap" of the mechanism. It IS a pretty much self-contained unit, though, which has its plusses.
There was supposed to be some new-tech in a variable-dwell ignition module, on the OEM units, but I'm not sure about that. Modules MUST have the dielectric silicone as a heat sink compound under them on the breaker plate, OR they'll overheat and fail, in the original configuration.
ONE possible plus is that the "more pins" module supports a detonation limiter, which as a stand-alone system on Chevy pickup small block V-8s. Sensor screwed into the rh block drain plug, module was behind the glove box, and necessary for the 9.5CR 305s from back then, "Electronic Spark Control" on the tailgate. Just have to put some added alum foil shielding around them if you've got a powerful business FM-band radio! Key the microphone, kill the engine. LOL
As things have evolved, a multi-strike controller for the Chrysler electronic system might be a better alternative, to me. Just no "orange box"!
Just don't modify the existing harness so much that something "less tissue-rejection-related" might be put back in, please.
Enjoy!
CBODY67
Obviously, the evap emissions connections can be used with different vac signal sources of the same signal. Other things can be cleaned up, too, in the process.
After watching the HEI from the late '70s on GM vehicles, there ARE some issues they have that many might not be aware of, like the carbon connector between the oil and the rotor wearing out. Of the need for the coil to be grounded!
At the time the HEI was conceived and introduced, the issue of a "high voltage/energy" ignition system was the way everybody was looking back then. The orig design orientation was to fire a .100" plug gap, except that past .080", plug wire condition became very important. GM had some Olds engines that were originally spec'd at .060" gaps, but were later decreased as other issues of plug fouling of new cars on the lot were encountered. The "big cap adapters" from MSD and the similar Ford "big cap systems" would support the increased voltages (and internal ozone production!), but needed venting so mis-fires would not happen. The 8mm plug wires were a part of this mix, too.
As things have evolved, that extra fire-power was not needed as greater control of fuel mixtures evolved with FI and such. Therefore, no need for the "big cap" of the mechanism. It IS a pretty much self-contained unit, though, which has its plusses.
There was supposed to be some new-tech in a variable-dwell ignition module, on the OEM units, but I'm not sure about that. Modules MUST have the dielectric silicone as a heat sink compound under them on the breaker plate, OR they'll overheat and fail, in the original configuration.
ONE possible plus is that the "more pins" module supports a detonation limiter, which as a stand-alone system on Chevy pickup small block V-8s. Sensor screwed into the rh block drain plug, module was behind the glove box, and necessary for the 9.5CR 305s from back then, "Electronic Spark Control" on the tailgate. Just have to put some added alum foil shielding around them if you've got a powerful business FM-band radio! Key the microphone, kill the engine. LOL
As things have evolved, a multi-strike controller for the Chrysler electronic system might be a better alternative, to me. Just no "orange box"!
Just don't modify the existing harness so much that something "less tissue-rejection-related" might be put back in, please.
Enjoy!
CBODY67
Payton Mitchell
Member
Would anyone be interested in the old carb set up?
Don't toss the stuff you take off... if you sell the car, the next owner may want to put them back.
Many people used to say "Get rid of all of that pollution "stuff" and put something else back in its place". Not entirely accurate in the case of many Chrysler engines, but more true with Ford and GM motors, by observation.
The stock ignition can be enhanced rather than replaced. There used to be a 9801 TQuad, but now a Street Demon will do. The intake manifold can be a significant performance increase, I suspect. But until you get more compression into the motor, add another point of CR, which will take either heads and/or pistons, the full effect might not be reached.
Simplifying the vacuum lines and such can help things look nicer, though.
I know that in TX, your vehicle only needs a "safety inspection" rather than a sniffer test. But keeping things looking stock, key word "looking" can be important. That means no aftermarket air cleaner, for example, although spark plug wires and chrome might be ok. That's the way I see it.
When we went to the first town hall meeting before the emissions testing first went into effect, the State operatives said that as long as what came out of the tailpipe matched the model year of the vehicle, no problem. But if it didn't, then the hood would be raised and a list of offenses would be made. Which would later be termed a "visual inspection". Of course, when the centralized testing went kaput later on, things changed.
Keeping that emissions "stuff" in a box for a potential later owner, PLUS a list of what's been done and a parts list for any modifications should go along with that, too.
Having a dual exhaust with shielded aftermarket converters in it won't hurt much and still prove "intent" of keeping the environment safe for all. Which might also help, if anybody should look and question.
CBODY67
The stock ignition can be enhanced rather than replaced. There used to be a 9801 TQuad, but now a Street Demon will do. The intake manifold can be a significant performance increase, I suspect. But until you get more compression into the motor, add another point of CR, which will take either heads and/or pistons, the full effect might not be reached.
Simplifying the vacuum lines and such can help things look nicer, though.
I know that in TX, your vehicle only needs a "safety inspection" rather than a sniffer test. But keeping things looking stock, key word "looking" can be important. That means no aftermarket air cleaner, for example, although spark plug wires and chrome might be ok. That's the way I see it.
When we went to the first town hall meeting before the emissions testing first went into effect, the State operatives said that as long as what came out of the tailpipe matched the model year of the vehicle, no problem. But if it didn't, then the hood would be raised and a list of offenses would be made. Which would later be termed a "visual inspection". Of course, when the centralized testing went kaput later on, things changed.
Keeping that emissions "stuff" in a box for a potential later owner, PLUS a list of what's been done and a parts list for any modifications should go along with that, too.
Having a dual exhaust with shielded aftermarket converters in it won't hurt much and still prove "intent" of keeping the environment safe for all. Which might also help, if anybody should look and question.
CBODY67
Payton Mitchell
Member
May keep the old parts store em in a old truck can out in the pasture out of my shop for sure. Yea we do t do any off those emissions test here there more worried about window tint.
Payton Mitchell
Member
Not sure what was living under intake
Similar threads
