Steering coupler needed

Here is what mine looks like...almost the same as yours, I think. Although my steering shaft is on the other side of the rag joint. Does anyone have a pic of their Fury to post?



Frank, I re-oriented your photo to match mine. It's easier to see for comparison purposes and how badly your joint is torn and pulling away from the steering shaft because the rag joint is basically only being secured by 1 of the 2 bolts.

Still your steering column looks a bit off centered as compared to mine, however it may just be a difference in model vehicles. There's also a reason why Mopar made the coupler the way they did where the shaft does have lateral movement.

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This photo shows a different angle and the coupler is shown in a near straight alignment axis with the rag joint and steering shaft.
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Have a look at these and see if this could set you off in the right direction.

Volkswagen Restoration Parts | New VW Parts | Volkswagon: Steering Coupler, Rubber,OE Mexico Dealer

84950 - Steering Coupler - Ingalls Engineering Co., Inc.

1968-1969 Nova Steering Coupler Rag Joint For Manual Steering Fine Thread

More Information for LARES 201

Finding the right unit shouldn't be hard, just a matter of knowing the diameter of your steering shaft, even for F150's use this coupler.

More Information for DORMAN 31004
I had a brain fart, none of this is relevant as I have been mixing up Aussie and American Fury's.
 
Okay I got the coupler in the mail today, it fits well with a bit of work, it needs the holes partially drilled out to accept the hex head of the nuts mopars use, but you could use standard bolts that are longer. The unit is a bit thicker than the original but I didnt have any problem with that. Check the pics. At $26 it is far cheaper than the NOS ones for $200.
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Okay I got the coupler in the mail today, it fits well with a bit of work, it needs the holes partially drilled out to accept the hex head of the nuts mopars use, but you could use standard bolts that are longer. The unit is a bit thicker than the original but I didnt have any problem with that. Check the pics. At $26 it is far cheaper than the NOS ones for $200.
View attachment 78764 View attachment 78765 View attachment 78766

I contacted the seller last week asking him for the dimensions. I had sent you a PM asking you to compare those dimensions - if you responded it could have saved you the trouble to drilling out the holes. The seller said the bolt hole was an 8mm. I went to Lowe's to check on hex head bolt sizes and the 8mm was too large to fit in the recessed hole of the OEM rag joint, but a 5/16 x 1-1/4 fit perfectly. I don't have an actual OEM hex bolt available so I can't compare it to the 5/16" I got from Lowe's. I know you're bolts are OEM, but just wanting to double check. If the Range Rovers hole size is indeed a 5/16 then that would be the replacement bolts to use and yours it too big. I can't imagine RR using a smaller than 5/16" hex bolt. If one were to use a 5/16 replacement bolt, the only difference is it wouldn't have the cotter key hole, but a lock washer should be sufficient - unless you want to drill a hole.

As far as the RR rag joint, other than the bolt head size, the only real difference I see is the thickness which is just a 1/4" thicker than OEM and shouldn't be a problem at all. That was a good find Wollfen!
 
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That doesn't look like the same coupler that was on your car... correct?
Are you using another setup to verify the fit?

I contacted the seller last week asking him for the dimensions. I had sent you a PM asking you to compare those dimensions - if you responded it could have saved you the trouble to drilling out the holes. The seller said the bolt hole was an 8mm. I went to Lowe's to check on hex head bolt sizes and the 8mm was too large to fit in the recessed hole of the OEM rag joint, but a 5/16 x 1-1/4 fit perfectly. I don't have an actual OEM hex bolt available so I can't compare it to the 5/16" I got from Lowe's. I know you're bolts are OEM, but just wanting to double check. If the Range Rovers hole size is indeed a 5/16 then that would be the replacement bolts to use and yours it too big. I can't imagine RR using a smaller than 5/16" hex bolt. If one were to use a 5/16 replacement bolt, the only difference is it wouldn't have the cotter key hole, but a lock washer should be sufficient - unless you want to drill a hole.

As far as the RR rag joint, other than the bolt head size, the only real difference I see is the thickness which is just a 1/4" thicker than OEM and shouldn't be a problem at all. That was a good find Wollfen!
The OEM bolt shaft size fits the 8mm hole like a glove and what I did is drill halfway down into the holes, two opposite holes on one side then repeated this process from the other side for the remaining two holes. This allowed the hex head to slide in and bottom out inside the new coupler with just enough of the bolt showing at the other end to put the split pins in. The assembly was put in the car today and it all slipped in without any issues.
 
The OEM bolt shaft size fits the 8mm hole like a glove and what I did is drill halfway down into the holes, two opposite holes on one side then repeated this process from the other side for the remaining two holes. This allowed the hex head to slide in and bottom out inside the new coupler with just enough of the bolt showing at the other end to put the split pins in. The assembly was put in the car today and it all slipped in without any issues.

Sorry Wollen, I got you mixed up with Frank who started this post. What I was saying is that the shank of a 5/16" hex bolt is just about the same size as an 8mm, but the head is smaller and fits perfectly in the recessed hole as shown below. This is my old rag joint with the new 5/16" hex bolt inserted.

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My Bouchillon aluminum coupler (biscuit) is with the car in the shop. I should know something soon...

I tried the solid coupler. It fits but the steering feel is not good at all. You will have to loosen the plate at the fire wall for it to line up. In doing that your steering wheel may not be in the same position.
Hope you have better luck than I did.
 
Oh and yes, this assembly is what originally came out of my car.
Thank you for all the info! I bought the last one(Range Rover) he had on E Bay and received it yesterday. This is for my 66 Fury. I am choosing to grind the the width a little closer to the original size, open the holes for the bolt head like you did, then install. Thanks again!
 
Thank you for all the info! I bought the last one(Range Rover) he had on E Bay and received it yesterday. This is for my 66 Fury. I am choosing to grind the the width a little closer to the original size, open the holes for the bolt head like you did, then install. Thanks again!

dcjoe22, you might find that the extra 1/4" would fit ok and you won't have to grind it down. As for the drilling out the bolt hole, first check at Lowe's or HD to see if a 5/16" hex bolt will fit without the need to drill out the hole and report back!
 
dcjoe22, you might find that the extra 1/4" would fit ok and you won't have to grind it down. As for the drilling out the bolt hole, first check at Lowe's or HD to see if a 5/16" hex bolt will fit without the need to drill out the hole and report back!
I did try to fit the new one in and it was a struggle and didn't seem to want to go. Something would have to be adjusted one way or another for it to fit.
 
I did try to fit the new one in and it was a struggle and didn't seem to want to go. Something would have to be adjusted one way or another for it to fit.
You mean because it's too thick? On my 66tc the column has a spring which allows one to collapse it a bit. I had 1/4" gap so that Range Rover joint would have fit for me.
 
My aluminum coupler was a bust for 2 reasons. My mechanic is a stickler and since the Bouchillion packaging says "for off-road use only" he didn't like and it didn't fit right anyway.

I did, however, luck out and found a guy with a storage unit full of 65-67 parts! I bought a complete tilt floor shift steering column complete with a really good oem coupler. I'm going to clean it up and try to install it, and we'll see if it realigns my wormshaft at all. If it doesn't, there must be an incorrect steering box in the car. I'll address that if I have to.



 
My aluminum coupler was a bust for 2 reasons. My mechanic is a stickler and since the Bouchillion packaging says "for off-road use only" he didn't like and it didn't fit right anyway.

I did, however, luck out and found a guy with a storage unit full of 65-67 parts! I bought a complete tilt floor shift steering column complete with a really good oem coupler. I'm going to clean it up and try to install it, and we'll see if it realigns my wormshaft at all. If it doesn't, there must be an incorrect steering box in the car. I'll address that if I have to.



Hey Frank, can we see a larger pic of the steering box, coupler and where the steering column comes through the firewall? That way in one picture we can get an idea of whats up, cheers,
Gary
 
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