Store bought or homemade tape for timing?

Would some one be willing to give me a call on my cell to lend their expertise while I'm here at the garage. Please & Thank you.

Alex 212-365-0652
 
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Sorry, can't call right now.

Sounds like you've moved the timing too much.

There's a couple ways to address it... Either keep moving it a little at a time and trying it

or

bump the starter until you get the timing mark back close to zero. Pop the cap off and the rotor needs to be pointed at #1 or #6. That should get you close.
 
I moved the distributor slowly in each direction to get a feel and see how rpms might be affected as you suggested.. but the rpms did not change.. the car stalls out in either direction.. rpms are down to 450 and I can't get them to increase even when advancing the timing/turning the distributor counter clockwise.

I need a timing hotline! I need clarity on what I just did, what is going on now, and how to back it up to where I started if possible.
 
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Alex,
Tried giving you a call, I am one hour behind you on the coast. Will try again in the morning.
Bill
Hi Bill, Thanks for trying to call.. hmmm, didn't get a missed call from you.. feel free to try again if you're still up.
 
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I just checked timing at idle and it was at 12.8 degrees with ... i just messed up my timing and can't figure it out now.. it was perfect i think until i loosened the distributor clamp down bolt to play around with rpms.. get them up a bit as John suggested... it stalled out and i can't get a reading.. suddenly it went from perfection to really bad.. i should have listened to my first instinct and left the distributor alone and went to the carb to adjust rpm with idle screw first.. now i have no idea where to go with it. I thought I had a grasp on this timing thing before starting but I am compltely lost on it right now.. I turned the car off, it keeps stalling. I thought I had a handle on this timing adjustment concept but I am in the dark right now..
Sorry Alex... we make a bad "on demand" tech line... get your timing back to right, then you play with the throttle stop. If you have things way out... you will likely go back and forth a little. You are taking a big bite when you try to adjust the distributor and the carb/choke at the same time. Once she seems to be running good, it will be small adjustments as a rule.
 
Sorry Alex... we make a bad "on demand" tech line... get your timing back to right, then you play with the throttle stop. If you have things way out... you will likely go back and forth a little. You are taking a big bite when you try to adjust the distributor and the carb/choke at the same time. Once she seems to be running good, it will be small adjustments as a rule.
No worries! You guys are all great to help the way you do. It just all seemed to go so abstract on me.. The options given by you and John, GJS and Bill are appreciated, and I'll sleep on which way to go next-- tomorrow when I return. Thanks for coming through. And thanks to GJS/Gavin and Bill who called me up tonight to help troubleshoot.. very kind of them both. To all, please forgive the urgent tones of my crisis. And btw, the fluid under the car I spoke of which coincided with timing adjustment turned out to be an old hose clamp connection knocked loose near the distributor.. no big deal.
I just shut it down for the evening to return tomorrow fresh, when I'll attempt to return timing to where it was before.
 
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Sorry, can't call right now.

Sounds like you've moved the timing too much.

There's a couple ways to address it... Either keep moving it a little at a time and trying it

or

bump the starter until you get the timing mark back close to zero. Pop the cap off and the rotor needs to be pointed at #1 or #6. That should get you close.
Thanks John, I may try this to see what happens.. Also spoke with Bill on the phone, at length, where he suggested a static timing adjustment, by where I turn the crankshaft by hand to factory timing spec(my FSM says 12.5 degrees for 383 4bbl), then remove distributor cap, loosen distributor clamp down bolt and turn distributor by hand CCW until the point gap just barely starts to open.. replace cap.. then start engine and bring up to temp. While keeping rpms aat 650, I should look to still have degrees steady at 12.5... only when timing is rock solid do I move over to carburetor with vacuum gauge on and mixture screw adjustments, etc.
I still do not understand how to set total timing-- it was this that got me into trouble. I was under the impression that total timing was to be set first, and initial timing was just for reference.
 
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Thanks John, I may try this to see what happens.. Also spoke with Bill on the phone, at length, where he suggested a static timing adjustment, by where I turn the crankshaft by hand to factory timing spec(my FSM says 12.5 degrees for 383 4bbl), then remove distributor cap, loosen distributor clamp down bolt and turn distributor CCW until the point gap just starts open.. replace cap.. then start engine and bring up to temp. While keeping rpms at 650, I should look to still have degrees steady at 12.5... only when timing is rock solid do I move over to carburetor with vacuum gauge on and mixture screw adjustments, etc.

Yes, same idea, just more refined and accurate.

What was the fluid? Antifreeze or gas?
 
Antifreeze. Coming from a loose hose connection.. all buttoned up now.
Things always seem to go the most wrong and be the biggest mysteries when you're tired and pushing for a deadline. The best thing you can do is try to have a little Zen moment before you do more harm than good while panicking or getting angry.

Everyone who has every spent a little time working through diagnostic problems has had a "break through moment" while taking a morning crap with a clear mind... sometimes the brain just needs a break.
 
Everyone who has every spent a little time working through diagnostic problems has had a "break through moment" while taking a morning crap with a clear mind... sometimes the brain just needs a break.

No truer words were ever spoken....
 
No truer words were ever spoken....
You guys have never said it better. You have know idea how many times I was stumped and my head spinning with a problem and walked away for 10 minutes only the find the problem as soon as I returned.
 
Alex,
Total ignition timing is the mechanical AND vacuum advance working together. (say 25 degrees at 3,000 R.P.M.). This Will VARY WITH EACH AUTO and is only critical for a race machine. For a car that gets normal use this I.M.H.O. is not that important.
A good poop never hurts.:lol:
Unless you hold it in for too long. But the relief is worth it.
 
frustrating reading through all this. makes me wanna just drive over there and fix it myself. probably take all of what, 15 minutes, half hour? beautiful car worthy of professional help. owner's worthy also for his efforts.
 
frustrating reading through all this. makes me wanna just drive over there and fix it myself. probably take all of what, 15 minutes, half hour? beautiful car worthy of professional help. owner's worthy also for his efforts.
Hell if it wasn't over 800 miles for me, I would go there and teach him how to do it correctly. We had a great conversation last night and ended up talking for four hours. Nice guy who is just trying to learn something new, something most of us have gone through already.
 
to be successful with this format a person has to be a good mechanic, teacher, and writer. two of which i'm not. everyone who has contributed here has done a great job. i'll continue to follow and wish for success.
 
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