Stubborn upper ball joint

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I have to remove the upper control arms to change the inner bushings. Not having much luck with the ball joint studs, the puller isn't cutting it. I've also tried an air hammer on the spindle while under tension from the puller, and whacking the side pods on the spindle with a hand sledge. Anyone know of any other tricks?

IMG_1696.jpeg
 
Try putting some penetrating oil on it, maybe that would help. The only times I've had to remove the upper ball joints I was replacing them. I didn't worry about damaging them. and got them out with a pickle fork.
 
Looks like the boot on your ball joing is shot, so you might waht to replace it. As noted penetrating oil should help.

Dave
 
had a hell of a time with mine recently too and like a few people said I had to let it sit overnight with some good penetrating lubricant
 
Thanks for the suggestions guys. Lots of good ones here. For now, the right side is sitting there under tension, hoping it pops overnight - both sides are soaked in PB Blaster. I'll try the lever action puller tomorrow if I can find one big enough, these take the size large puller that is usually for pitman arms. Big cars, these. If that doesn't work, I'll pull out the nine pound sledge and hope my aim is true.
 
I have to remove the upper control arms to change the inner bushings. Not having much luck with the ball joint studs, the puller isn't cutting it. I've also tried an air hammer on the spindle while under tension from the puller, and whacking the side pods on the spindle with a hand sledge. Anyone know of any other tricks?

View attachment 588533
Looks like chisel marks on the side of the steering knuckle/spindle. I would not hit the knuckle any more.
I just did this job 5 months ago on a 1971 Fury that had never been apart.
Pickle fork and a big hammer: I needed room to create a big strike with the hammer. No short distance hammer swings.
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No short distance hammer swings
something just short of a full roundhouse does it. not for the weak of heart. hitting the side of the knuckle actually distorts slightly the round hole that the tapered pin goes through. that's what pops it out. now imagine the force needed to do that. brutal but it works. a chisel is not to be used. it would be stuck directly with a hammer and when done right it never fails. if it is damaged already then use you best judgement.
 
The pic seems to show the nut removed from the stud. If this is the case and the stud "pops" out, the release of energy could be damaging. I would suggest you thread the nut about half way on the stud to prevent trouble. Just a thought.
Since the boot is already damaged, I would agree that the pickle fork is the best route. Lindsay
 
Success! The BFH did the trick. I was aware of this option, just hoping I wouldn't have to use it. As for the force required... I'm glad I go to the gym. I dressed the hammer marks down with a flap wheel to tidy things up and to reduce the possibility of stress risers, like what you would do with a gouged torsion bar. The ball joints are all in great shape, so I didn't want to ruin them with a pickle fork. I will replace the rubber boots on the uppers, lowers are still mint.

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by side pods, you mean the area of the spindle that the ball joint pin goes through? for this to work, the torsion bar would have to be in and loaded. I've never failed to separate a ball joint using that method.
Yes, that area. The torsion bars are removed, I did that a few days ago with a home made tool. Still worked, although the downward force would have helped.
The pic seems to show the nut removed from the stud. If this is the case and the stud "pops" out, the release of energy could be damaging. I would suggest you thread the nut about half way on the stud to prevent trouble. Just a thought.
Since the boot is already damaged, I would agree that the pickle fork is the best route. Lindsay
Absolutely right. If the torsion bars were still installed, I would have done just that.
Looks like chisel marks on the side of the steering knuckle/spindle. I would not hit the knuckle any more.
I just did this job 5 months ago on a 1971 Fury that had never been apart.
Pickle fork and a big hammer: I needed room to create a big strike with the hammer. No short distance hammer swings.
Those were hammer marks from the hand sledge. All smoothed out now.
something just short of a full roundhouse does it. not for the weak of heart. hitting the side of the knuckle actually distorts slightly the round hole that the tapered pin goes through. that's what pops it out. now imagine the force needed to do that. brutal but it works. a chisel is not to be used. it would be stuck directly with a hammer and when done right it never fails. if it is damaged already then use you best judgement.
Sure does work. Aim is the biggest issue. I'm right handed, so the right side was an easier blow than the left side will be. For that side, I'll probably remove the rotor and dust shield to get a better exposure to the impact pad.
 
Success! The BFH did the trick. I was aware of this option, just hoping I wouldn't have to use it. As for the force required... I'm glad I go to the gym. I dressed the hammer marks down with a flap wheel to tidy things up and to reduce the possibility of stress risers, like what you would do with a gouged torsion bar. The ball joints are all in great shape, so I didn't want to ruin them with a pickle fork. I will replace the rubber boots on the uppers, lowers are still mint.

View attachment 588576


Yes, that area. The torsion bars are removed, I did that a few days ago with a home made tool. Still worked, although the downward force would have helped.

Absolutely right. If the torsion bars were still installed, I would have done just that.

Those were hammer marks from the hand sledge. All smoothed out now.

Sure does work. Aim is the biggest issue. I'm right handed, so the right side was an easier blow than the left side will be. For that side, I'll probably remove the rotor and dust shield to get a better exposure to the impact pad.
What flap wheel do you use on torsion bars and steering knuckle? Pic?
How big a gouge can be cleaned up on a torsion bar before it should be replaced? I had thought: anything bigger than a nick and the torsion bar needs to go into recycling. Thanks
 
What flap wheel do you use on torsion bars and steering knuckle? Pic?
How big a gouge can be cleaned up on a torsion bar before it should be replaced? I had thought: anything bigger than a nick and the torsion bar needs to go into recycling. Thanks
I use a 4" wheel in an angle grinder. I prefer using a worn one like this because they do better at smoothing and shaping, brand new ones can be too aggressive. As for how big a gouge can be cleaned up, that's a matter of opinion - mine is that after you smooth it, if it looks like nothing happened and there isn't a noticeable dent where it used to be, you're fine. Even the shop manual says to dress gouges before reusing torsion bars, although it doesn't say how deep is too deep.

IMG_1701.jpeg
 
for smoothing out any metal i use a cookie wheel such as shown. they're supposed to be used for gasket removal but i won't use them for that because they remove metal and can affect a seal surface. found that i could sharpen drill bits with them.
13062_d_dmoe-scaled.jpg
 
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