Superlite

Buttoned up everything today, its been about 8 weeks of on going one thing leads to another.
Thank you to 69 topless for the confirmation that she was wired right and operating correctly & Big John for the schematic efforts.
It appears 30 is where the wire goes on the 70.

Pardon the dust
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Couldnt have done it without this board. Well, I did have it nailed down, I did however think I was doing something wrong. The confirmation here made me feel much better about my results.
 
Nice garage too! Glad to know I'm not the only one that decorates the shop with hubcaps!
 
Buttoned up everything today, its been about 8 weeks of on going one thing leads to another.
Thank you to 69 topless for the confirmation that she was wired right and operating correctly & Big John for the schematic efforts.
It appears 30 is where the wire goes on the 70.

Pardon the dust

Great you were able to finish the project :thumbsup: What kind of bulb you are using in super lite, original or some new alternative bulb?
 
Great you were able to finish the project :thumbsup: What kind of bulb you are using in super lite, original or some new alternative bulb?

I installed a NOS lamp unit . So it should stand to reason that is a NOS bulb in there too ( what else would I call it). I also have a spare NOS bulb as back up in case this one goes out.

Has anyone used a suitable compatible modern replacement bulb ?
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That is looking good! I need to get mine wired up and hooked up. However I have to make my own harness, unless you have a spare one...?

With talks I had with slantsixdan there really isnt a modern replacement for this bulb. But what he was able to do was to take a H3 bulb and mount it to an original superlite bulbs base and alter the distance from it to get the correct focal point. I believe I have what he did written down somewhere.
 
That is looking good! I need to get mine wired up and hooked up. However I have to make my own harness, unless you have a spare one...?

With talks I had with slantsixdan there really isnt a modern replacement for this bulb. But what he was able to do was to take a H3 bulb and mount it to an original superlite bulbs base and alter the distance from it to get the correct focal point. I believe I have what he did written down somewhere.


I have a used harness left over from the mission but it is spoken for. If the need was there you guys should take it to a wire guy and have him make up several off of the used piece.
 
That is looking good! I need to get mine wired up and hooked up. However I have to make my own harness, unless you have a spare one...?

With talks I had with slantsixdan there really isnt a modern replacement for this bulb. But what he was able to do was to take a H3 bulb and mount it to an original superlite bulbs base and alter the distance from it to get the correct focal point. I believe I have what he did written down somewhere.

You are right, I found his notes. It takes H3 bulbs but needs to be adjusted for correct focus unless your aim is just to light up the bulb at the shows.

Superlite Bulb Replacement - Very Pricey

slantsixdan comment below:
You're on the wrong track looking at H1s. The focal length is too long, the filament orientation is wrong (H1 has an axial filament; the Super-Lite's optic needs a transverse filament), and the base won't fit even "kinda sorta". The closest standard bulb is an H3, which has a transverse filament but the focal length is too short and the base flange, while round, is too small. A clever person with the right tools and materials can remove the base flange from a dead Super-Lite bulb and from a 100w H3 and attach it to the H3 bulb's shank, further aft than the H3's original base flange, thus resulting in a very close approximation to the original bulb. The H3's feed terminal is at the end of a short wire instead of directly on the back of the bulb shank, but that's of no consequence; it's the same ¼" male spade terminal.

Start with a 100w H3 from a reputable maker -- Philips, Osram, Narva, or GE. Get the kind with colorless clear glass; forget the "super white" or "xenon white" type of garbage with blue glass. Don't worry about the difference between "85w" and "100w"; both are nominal wattages, and the actual wattage of the original Super-Lite bulb and the 100w H3 are extremely similar.

No, I am not that clever person -- I had it done for me by a colleague some years ago (automotive lighting is my professional field), and the result worked/works perfectly not just by eye, but by lab photometry in my NOS Super-Lite assembly. I was just photographing my Super-Lites yesterday in prep for putting them up for sale. Here are a couple pics of the custom bulb:

Superlite_Newbulb_3.jpg


Superlite_Newbulb_2.jpg


I do not know if the guy who built this bulb for me is still alive and equipped.

All the above is if you care about being able to use the lamp as intended (midbeam/turnpike beam). If all you need it to do is light up to show it off at shows and stuff, then you can just apply a Dremel tool to the base of an H3 and it'll fit well enough to light up the lamp, as you can see in this post.

(Also, be careful out there. I've seen at least one NOS vendor offering ordinary H3 bulbs under p/n 2949241, at eyewatering prices.)
 
You are right, I found his notes. It takes H3 bulbs but needs to be adjusted for correct focus unless your aim is just to light up the bulb at the shows.

Superlite Bulb Replacement - Very Pricey

slantsixdan comment below:
You're on the wrong track looking at H1s. The focal length is too long, the filament orientation is wrong (H1 has an axial filament; the Super-Lite's optic needs a transverse filament), and the base won't fit even "kinda sorta". The closest standard bulb is an H3, which has a transverse filament but the focal length is too short and the base flange, while round, is too small. A clever person with the right tools and materials can remove the base flange from a dead Super-Lite bulb and from a 100w H3 and attach it to the H3 bulb's shank, further aft than the H3's original base flange, thus resulting in a very close approximation to the original bulb. The H3's feed terminal is at the end of a short wire instead of directly on the back of the bulb shank, but that's of no consequence; it's the same ¼" male spade terminal.

Start with a 100w H3 from a reputable maker -- Philips, Osram, Narva, or GE. Get the kind with colorless clear glass; forget the "super white" or "xenon white" type of garbage with blue glass. Don't worry about the difference between "85w" and "100w"; both are nominal wattages, and the actual wattage of the original Super-Lite bulb and the 100w H3 are extremely similar.

No, I am not that clever person -- I had it done for me by a colleague some years ago (automotive lighting is my professional field), and the result worked/works perfectly not just by eye, but by lab photometry in my NOS Super-Lite assembly. I was just photographing my Super-Lites yesterday in prep for putting them up for sale. Here are a couple pics of the custom bulb:

View attachment 379062

View attachment 379063

I do not know if the guy who built this bulb for me is still alive and equipped.

All the above is if you care about being able to use the lamp as intended (midbeam/turnpike beam). If all you need it to do is light up to show it off at shows and stuff, then you can just apply a Dremel tool to the base of an H3 and it'll fit well enough to light up the lamp, as you can see in this post.

(Also, be careful out there. I've seen at least one NOS vendor offering ordinary H3 bulbs under p/n 2949241, at eyewatering prices.)
WOW. Nice summary. It will never apply to me but I still love learning.
:thankyou:
 
I wanted to add to this thread because I think it could benefit.
Sometime in May or so I had seen an ad for Superlites. The fellow had five all NOS one or two missing bulbs , whatever.
I noticed they were assembled units with the brackets. I had never seen them before sold like that. In the parts book you get the Superlite or bracket separate, separate numbers. Not as a unit.
While at Carlisle I happened upon the seller of the five superlites. His father had worked for Sylvania in 70 and when the Superlite was canceled he brought home this box of Superlites. I found this fascinating. I was more fascinated with the box than the Superlites, Probably the last one in existence. This is the way they were shipped to Dodge production. Presumably the separate light and bracket is over the parts counter replacement stuff.

I took photos for all to see and for the sake of posterity.

As for the seller, I don't know if he sold any Superlites that weekend. I think a sudden saturation on the market may have lessened their value but I still want the box.
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That looks like such a mess. How long did it take you to swap the harness? If you had to do it again, would you remove the dash?

I figured it could be done leaving the dash in place, but I would think pulling the entire assembly, and accessing all the wiring from the backside would be easier then pulling it apart like this.
 
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