Switching from column shifter to console on '65 300

65chrys300

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Hello All..I have a '65 300 with a column shifter that I want to convert to a console shift. The cable shift on it is just a pain to deal with and keeps going out of adjustment on me. Has anybody here ever done one of these conversions? Are there any special parts that will be needed to accomplish this? I'm thinking my steering column will need to be replaced but what else will I need? Any help would be greatly appreciated.
 
Anybody have any ideas on this? From what I'm seeing nobody appears to make an aftermarket console shifter for the '65, they all seem to be for '66 and up...is finding the factory gearshift and console my only option for this car?
 
Do you want the factory set up or are you looking for something aftermarket? I would think that finding a 65 parts car that can yield those parts shouldnt be too hard to find.
 
Do you want the factory set up or are you looking for something aftermarket? I would think that finding a 65 parts car that can yield those parts shouldnt be too hard to find.

It doesn't matter to me, if I can find a factory setup that would be great but I can't seem to find one, I've checked some yards around here and no luck..

I'd be fine with aftermarket but it seems like everything I see is for '66 and up, I guess the '65 has a different yoke or something my friend was telling me..

I just want the solution that will allow me to drive the car more than a couple times before the column shifter loses reverse...
 

Yeah, I left him a VM but haven't heard back, I'll give him a try again, getting the stock gearshifter/console seems like the easiest route from what I'm seeing in the service manual, looks like I just have to route the cables through the floorpan, install the gearshift on some bracket then use 4 bolts to attach it to the console...hopefully he can come through for me...if not I have no problems taking the aftermarket route just seems like it's all made for '66 and up...would be nice if I can get the factory setup so I can have the tachometer like the letter cars.

I think the TCS shifter from Turbo action might work but I gotta call them and find out..was hoping somebody here would know what I needed exactly for an aftermarket option if thats the route I have to take...seems like everything for the '65 is a one off...makes everything that more difficult..
 
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If your main purpose is to fix the shifting, that is a simple adjustment where the cable goes into the transmission, similar to adjusting the brake cable on a bicycle. The factory manual details it. It is usually a bit off when I follow their "back off 5 holes" method or such, so I tweak it a bit. All you are doing is getting the detents in the transmission to align with the detents in the gear shifter. If totally confused, pull the transmission pan off and it will be obvious. You may need to change the oil and filter anyway.

Your friend's comment on the one year only yoke output is that the 1965 big block 727 is a one year only combination - cable-shift but sliding yoke output. Earlier ones had the Detroit ball & trunion "U-joint" output, as does my 65 Dart 904. After 1965 both 904 and 727 transmission changed to a lever shift and 66+ A bodies were all sliding yoke output too.

Your cable-shift tranny is actually easier to adapt to a console shift, if you really want that. If you have bench seats, those must go. My 65 Newport has column shift, but my 65 Dart has console shift. I don't know if 66+ console shifters used levers or a cable. My 65 Dart has a cable. If you can't find a C-body, maybe you could use an A or B body console, but they are in demand. Maybe a shift console from any car, as long as it has a cable. The detents may not match your tranny's though. Check Lokar, since they make many cable shift adapters.
 
I'm also curious if the cable are different as well. The console shift cars have the holes for the cable at the top of the trans tunnel near the firewall. This may require different length cables. Changing from column to console isn't going to fix your adjusting woes as it is still a cable shifted trans. I'm not sure why you are having difficulty with yours as I have no issues with mine. Here is the adjusting procedure form the FSM.

Tranny-1.jpg
 
Thanks for the posts all, yeah, I'm not sure why mine is being such a pain. I actually took it to a professional shop and they adjusted it but it works for a couple rides then just loses reverse. I dropped it off last week with them again and they are checking it top to bottom. It seems to lose it after the second time taking it out when the transmission warms up, once it does reverse just disappears, you never find it no matter what. Once the car cools down it'll find reverse but start making this loud ratcheting sound when going in motion then eventually disappearing when the transmission is hot.
 
Thanks for the posts all, yeah, I'm not sure why mine is being such a pain. I actually took it to a professional shop and they adjusted it but it works for a couple rides then just loses reverse. I dropped it off last week with them again and they are checking it top to bottom. It seems to lose it after the second time taking it out when the transmission warms up, once it does reverse just disappears, you never find it no matter what. Once the car cools down it'll find reverse but start making this loud ratcheting sound when going in motion then eventually disappearing when the transmission is hot.

Sounds like it is time for a rebuild.
 
Ditto that. If you can't get reverse no matter where you put the lever, it is not a problem with the cable adjustment, assuming your cable is not broken or such. When you pull the column lever forward, you keep it off the detents so you have infinite adjustment.

Losing reverse is a common problem. That happened on the 413 Torqueflite tranny in my 96 Voyager, which is almost identical to a 727. I swapped in a used tranny because mine had a cracked case from a prior accident. In a forensic tear-down, I found the problem was a torn servo piston seal, which I could have fixed easily from the bottom with the tranny in the car. I think you don't even have to pull the valve body off. The 727 has a common problem where the L/R servo piston cocks in the bore. There is an after-market aluminum piston to fix that and costs only ~$12. A search should find it. That could well be your problem. Any tranny shop should be able to easily install it, or you could if you invest in a pair of long snap-ring pliers (I use a cheap set from Harbor Freight). Finding a shop that won't try to upsell you is the hardest part. Since tearing down my A-413, I decided I could rebuild a tranny myself, which I did when the used one later died (a shoddy rebuild, I found) then rebuilt a 4-spd A-606, which was even easier. I will do my 904's and 727 when they need it. I don't trust shops. I asked an Aamco shop in Atlanta about rebuilding a 727 I had out of the car, and they said they couldn't rebuild tranny's. What the heck do they do then? I had Cottman rebuild it, but didn't fix the problem, so maybe they just charged me a lot to clean it off a bit.
 
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