The sub frame project has begun..
- Thread starter mr. fix it
- Start date
mr. fix it
Old Man with a Hat
And they weigh a ton! None of that modern throw away crap.. I should be good for years now 
I worry about you Stan, when words like that come out of your fingertips. Aftermarket drums (and rotors) ALWAYS weigh more than OE parts. Primary reason is the aftermarket people don't need or want to hold the casting tolerances that OE demands. Second, in this day & age of EPA weight classes, EVERY ounce in a car matters, so even parts counter OE drums/rotors will be the same as the ones that came off the car. Aftermarket suppliers don't care if the weight of their parts is comparable to OE, as long as they work as intended. Years ago my wife had a '96 Neon and the rear drum brakes squealed and squawked to no end. Dealer replaced everything at least twice with no difference. I finally got fed up and bought a pair of aftermarket drums. No further issues. No other changes made. It's all about MASS, baby!
mr. fix it
Old Man with a Hat
Yet in my experience with the big 3 OEM parts, I have always found the OEM parts to be most bad when it came to brake parts.. Cheap cheap cheap...
For my rotors & drums I go with any name as long as it has a higher nickel content to prevent rust if parked for extended periods of time..
I pay a percentage more but it is worth it.
For my rotors & drums I go with any name as long as it has a higher nickel content to prevent rust if parked for extended periods of time..
I pay a percentage more but it is worth it.
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mr. fix it
Old Man with a Hat
I painted the inner fenders and they are now ready for installation although I will wait until I get the P/S leak and brakes bled so i don't have to reach over the fenders too much!
Please don't beat on me for not going with body colours. If the day ever comes to me painting this car, I will body colour them then
I chose a charcoal metallic black to offset the black stub frame and metallic silver firewall.
The underside has been satin black stone guarded as well after a base coat of Rust Bullet.
I had these shipped from California from a member that was unfortunately given the boot from the FCBO forums this past winter.
I scored these inners for less than $200 shipped all the way from Sanoma, CA to Buffalo, NY by way of GreyHound bus co.
Picking up a new PS hose tonight along with the rear wheel cylinders & parking cables too.
Please don't beat on me for not going with body colours. If the day ever comes to me painting this car, I will body colour them then
I chose a charcoal metallic black to offset the black stub frame and metallic silver firewall.
The underside has been satin black stone guarded as well after a base coat of Rust Bullet.
I had these shipped from California from a member that was unfortunately given the boot from the FCBO forums this past winter.
I scored these inners for less than $200 shipped all the way from Sanoma, CA to Buffalo, NY by way of GreyHound bus co.
Picking up a new PS hose tonight along with the rear wheel cylinders & parking cables too.
66SportFury
Senior Member
They look great. Can't wait to see the car all together and rolling down the street. Hmmm, maybe a nice smokey burnout video too..!!!
Can you come to Maryland and paint my NYB? LOL!
Great job!
Great job!
commando1
Old Man with a Hat
It takes an awful lot to get booted from this place. An AWFUL lot.
CanCritter
Senior Member
re the rust bullet...are you using it as a base prep for everything your painting short of exterior? or just using it for undercarriage and heavy wear areas like underside of inner fenders?
used rustbullet extencively on my 91 gm project however was only able to use a brush due to noise limitations where l live and wondering how it sprays and holds a topcoat other than the black topcoat...found the black topcoat little to shiney for me although it works great
used rustbullet extencively on my 91 gm project however was only able to use a brush due to noise limitations where l live and wondering how it sprays and holds a topcoat other than the black topcoat...found the black topcoat little to shiney for me although it works great
I painted the inner fenders and they are now ready for installation although I will wait until I get the P/S leak and brakes bled so i don't have to reach over the fenders too much!
Please don't beat on me for not going with body colours. If the day ever comes to me painting this car, I will body colour them then
I chose a charcoal metallic black to offset the black stub frame and metallic silver firewall.
The underside has been satin black stone guarded as well after a base coat of Rust Bullet.
I had these shipped from California from a member that was unfortunately given the boot from the FCBO forums this past winter.
I scored these inners for less than $200 shipped all the way from Sanoma, CA to Buffalo, NY by way of GreyHound bus co.
Picking up a new PS hose tonight along with the rear wheel cylinders & parking cables too.
I think you've painted the inner fenders (more or less) the correct colour. I don't believe they were body colour. If the inner fenders were integral to the unibody, then yes, they'd be body colour, but when they're bolt on, they're black.
mr. fix it
Old Man with a Hat
Phew that's a relief! But they are body colour normally at least in all the C-bodies I've seen for this year and model.
Anythng I do is 100x better than what is started out as.
The Rust Bullet? I brushed on everything I stripped or media blasted for this project.
I agree that the gloss black and white are too glossy but they did the job
I would have preferred a satin black myself
The gloss black didnt shrink in as nicely as the silver base but again I didn't use any reducer in the paint.. just a brush and a roller
I have heard very good things about rust bullet and it is more user friendly than other products on the market
Anythng I do is 100x better than what is started out as.
The Rust Bullet? I brushed on everything I stripped or media blasted for this project.
I agree that the gloss black and white are too glossy but they did the job
I would have preferred a satin black myself
The gloss black didnt shrink in as nicely as the silver base but again I didn't use any reducer in the paint.. just a brush and a roller
I have heard very good things about rust bullet and it is more user friendly than other products on the market
mr. fix it
Old Man with a Hat
I'm not sure what happened on that part but it pee'd someone off big time and he was a new member and he got the boot...
I had very good luck with dealing with them.
mr. fix it
Old Man with a Hat
I've been dreaming about the cruisin' part but burnouts??? not intentionally Probably only if I slipped on a brick of butter or banana peel!! LOL!!
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mr. fix it
Old Man with a Hat
I loosely installed the right side inner fender as well
I just have to figure out how to properly attach that inner fender support bracket. it was screwed in with a #2 wood screw when I tore it apart..
I just have to figure out how to properly attach that inner fender support bracket. it was screwed in with a #2 wood screw when I tore it apart..
mr. fix it
Old Man with a Hat
Well I think I finally cured my leaky PS pump with a new hose and a fancy 90'adapter..
Here's the P/S hose and adapter
Here's the P/S hose and adapter
commando1
Old Man with a Hat
CLEAN! Where did you get the adaptor?
66SportFury
Senior Member
Nice job on PS!
mr. fix it
Old Man with a Hat
It is a typical hydraulic 90 swivel adapter I picked up locally.
AN6 3/8"straight NPT
The nice thing about it is that I could postion it in any direction then tighten the swivel nut to seal the adapter.
mr. fix it
Old Man with a Hat
Thanks it really turn out well.
I checked before heading to work today and it was not leaking!!!
Guess I need to get out more. I don't recall ever seeing them body colour, again because they're not part of the unibody. I'm still going to hold out until someone has photos of an unrestored car.
To me, having them black sets off the engine itself as well as the engine compartment and all of the wiring and small ancilliaries that you attach to them are going to stand out very nicely.
I'm thinking you're doing a bang up job and doing it right both cosmetically and mechanically. Plus you seem to be getting all of this done in record time, which is a whole 'nother giant thumbs up all by itself.
In about two weeks, I'm going to actually have some time to look for some seriously good technical info on your car, and I'm hoping it will answer some of these questions.
For the time being, can you get back into the website where you find the subframe info in that online parts catalog? Sheetmetal parts are normally listed as "Paint as required" to match the body colour - fenders, doors etc., but if there's no notation like that for the inner fenders, then I'm going to call them as being provided in chassis black.
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