Torqueflite won't shift to second engine is dragged down

Rusty Muffler

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Hi all, been a while.

My Stock 66 Fury III 318 Poly is having a transmission problem today. The transmission was rebuilt about 5k miles ago. When I put it in reverse to back out I heard a loud sudden ping or bang sound. The car backed out fine and went into first fine but when it shifted (or tried to shift) to 2nd it was like I had put my foot on the brake and the engine would almost stall. It would then continue to stay in first and would keep trying to shift to 2nd with the same result.

Reverse works fine. Fluid is full and red but might smell a little odd? Now about 2 years ago I installed a 4 barrel carb and had adjusted the kick down rod so it would downshift sooner (or so I thought). After reading a bit about it I was wondering if the kickdown being mal-adjusted would cause this sort of failure? Where would the failure be?

It seems to point to the govenor but the binding and the bang make me think a band or something more serious?
 
I once had a Ford transmission fail because the front band had been over tightened. A little pin broke or let go and the band was just loose after that, no longer attached to the servo. I'm no expert on ATs, but someone else will chime in soon. Hopefully no serious damage.
 
Your kickdown band needs adjusted but I think it went too long and the strut fell out. The pan and vavle body will have to come out to reposition the strut.
 
Your kickdown band needs adjusted but I think it went too long and the strut fell out. The pan and vavle body will have to come out to reposition the strut.

Thanks Dave,

I have a copy of the shop manual. Do you any other details of what to look for like pieces in the pan and what caused the strut to come off?
 
Probably not set tight enough when rebuilt and when it wore in some just became too loose . Try tightening the kickdown band adjustment its on the outside if it won't snug up the strut probably fell out and may fall out when you pull the pan. This and the little one on the low and reverse band are the ones the trans shop like to hand you when you pick the car up, these are not hard to replace/put back in.
 
Oh man you stepped in a hornets nest with that question, watch out. Straighten pan with hammer and 2×4 glue gasket to pan with 3M trim adhesive give it time to cure overnight preferably then really light silicon on case side. Bolt up with only 1/4" drive screwdriver handle only. Cork
 
I use the reusable hard plastic 904 gasket that was on sale on E-Bay last year for $4 a piece. Never had one leak.
 
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it looks to be very tilted to the side... being it is hydraulic it will be difficult to compress filled with tranny fluid..
 
My last post is pics I took. I'm guessing the strut fell out or the band broke or a servo problem? It looks like the servo over extended itself from there being too much play if the strut fell out? The piston at the angle worries me as would it do this under these circumstances?

Next I'll drop the valve body...
 
My last post is pics I took. I'm guessing the strut fell out or the band broke or a servo problem? It looks like the servo over extended itself from there being too much play if the strut fell out? The piston at the angle worries me as would it do this under these circumstances?

Next I'll drop the valve body...

there is a snap ring that holds the piston in the servo bore. Has it broken? Did you see any large pieces of metal in the pan?
 
Once you get the valve body out, you might be able to loosen the adjuster and pop the anchor and strut out and swing the lever away, then work on that snap ring.
 
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