General A727 Potential R&R questions/suggestions.

[Sir Dodge alot]

OP; what engine in that 880? I have a 64 727 here that would be a great one to rebuild and then swap in when you get it back from the shop. Located near Chicago

The engine is a Chrysler 361 big block.

 

[Sir Dodge alot]

there are other cam companies taht make similar spec cams that dont have the problems of Comp. Also check out Oregon cams, they can regrind your original into whatever spec you may want for less than a new cam would cost. They also reface lifters so you dont have the metallurgy problems of current day parts.

Oh that's neat, didn't know refacing lifters was an option.

 

[Gerald Morris]

Perhaps my spending longer times in our '66 Newport driving back and forth to college (4 hours each way) once a month, back then, allowed me to get a more bit "tuned into" the car, how the suspension felt at various road speeds, how the engine responded to very minor throttle inputs, and the long range radio reception (and frequency response) of the factory AM radio. I learned a lot about what made Chrysler vehicles the great vehicles they were . . . something which others might not have paid attention to as they spent less time with their vehicles each time they drove them. I learned that each powertrain combination had its own "sweet spot" cruising speed, too. For the 383 2bbls with 2.76 rear axle ratio, H78-14 tires, and HD factory shocks, it was 75-90mph. At 70mph it was bored, at 92mph, not enough shock and spring. So 75-90 was it, also being on the top of the torque curve rpm, too. GM and Fords did not seem to have such sweet spots other than with their engines, by comparison.

Your observation of your '66 Newport accords very closely with my own, for both a 2.76 rear end and the 3.23 I now use. Over 90 mph, the car boats too much for my liking, though I suspect more work on suspension will alleviate a good deal of that. Still, for family driver purposes, 80-90 mph on the interstate works nicely enough. I probably get a little more fun from our 383 at 70 mph with the 3.23 rear end, the 915 heads and the Edelbrock 1405, but not a LOT more fun.

 

[Sir Dodge alot]

I don't like the idea of "talking down" on small businesses, but so far the experience with cope racing transmissions has been marginal.

I have purchased a seal kit, went smoothly but goddamn is the shipping expensive. At $25 for a couple ounces in weight of gaskets.

The next day, I purchased a bushing kit for the front pump and clutch drums.
(Master bushing kit)

Few days has gone by with no email confirmation that the package has shipped, I believe funds were deducted from my bank account.

So of course there is no business that still can "reliably" keep ahead of the orders, or incoming orders, the customer needs to lend a hand or coax things along to keep the "ball rolling"
It's like a square shape, it won't keep rolling unless someone keeps interacting with them.

Now I'm considering purchasing from A&A transmissions as some of you gentlemen have suggested.

Sorry for the minor rant, seems like some of the A body/B body guys were right.
"Cope transmissions ignores the emails"
I believe I'm getting the same treatment.

Anywho, just a small business "review"

 

[Sir Dodge alot]

Ok so tiny "update" I managed to get some steels and friction discs.

I managed to fit 6 friction discs on the front clutch drum,

Here's the conundrum I'm currently in.

The manual calls for .024 to .123 between the top pressure plate and between the snap ring.

I've got a .045 to get a snug fit.

But I've also got a machined pressure plate that allows extra clearances to be made.

I've read around and the consensus is .012 to .015 per clutch.

That brings me to around .090 clearance, is that right?? Awfully seems sloppy with a big clearance like that.

Currently there's X6 .064 clutches.
There are X 5 .068 kolene steels in place
Any clearance's that you have run with in your A727 would be much appreciated.

Will edit the post if necessary.

If I swap to the machined pressure plate, there's a lot of clearance, I'd assume .140 or so. But if my measuring is to be believed, it's about .073 clearance, measuring the clearance is difficult at the angle I need to measure the snap ring clearance at.

If I swap back to the stock pressure plate, the snap rings that fit are snug .045

Now I suppose I can get different clutches/steels, but if I do that, I can run only 5 clutches.

Thanks for your input.

 

[Sir Dodge alot]

So in post #49 i mentioned i found a TC to use but more research suggests this might not be that simple as just to buy an off the shelf TC and go.
I'm now considering flush & clean the old TC to re-use, anyone reused their TC with no ill effects?
I believe the TC i have chosen from hughes might not be matched with the cam in question.
And might be sluggish off the line.
I'll re-read the older posts if i missed out on something.
Thanks.

Edit: So i just took a look at what everyone does with a NEW TC and i saw someone knocking off the weights off of the NEW TC to get it "balanced" to the forged crankshaft, yay, or nay?

 

[Sir Dodge alot]

I just got around to disassembling the valve body, reassembled with the TransGo TF-1/TF-2 in place with the "B, C" separator plate 1-2 shift, 2-3 shift holes drilled to .125 (1/8)

Reassembled, now waiting on the bands to arrive for transmission assembly!

Cool thing to note both aluminum & Zinc castings had a 63' marked on it.
With the DPCD, and the forward look mark stamped on them

View attachment 645963

 

[Boydsdodge]

What I like about the 72 -78 trans is the part throttle kick down. It can be added to earlier transmissions.

727 TF 3-2 PArt Throttle Kickdown

I notice some have 5 bolts and some have 3

www.forcbodiesonly.com

 

[Sir Dodge alot]

What I like about the 72 -78 trans is the part throttle kick down. It can be added to earlier transmissions.
View attachment 645968View attachment 645969View attachment 645970

http://[URL]https://www.forcbodieso...27-tf-3-2-part-throttle-kickdown.26511/page-2

[/URL]

Nice, any other mods required to add-on the part throttle kickdown?

I assume a Lokar kit of sorts?

 

[Boydsdodge]

Nice, any other mods required to add-on the part throttle kickdown?

I assume a Lokar kit of sorts?

no external mods needed, just your stock kick down linkage properly adjusted.

 

[Sir Dodge alot]

no external mods needed, just your stock kick down linkage properly adjusted.

Much Appreciated, I'll consider getting one to strap on.

How did you like the performance of the part throttle kickdown after modification?

I suppose the merits are not lugging the engine at low speed with throttle near 65% open.

 

[Boydsdodge]

It's great for an easy pass when you don't have to hit the floor to get it to kick down for a little increase.

 

[Sir Dodge alot]

no external mods needed, just your stock kick down linkage properly adjusted.

So I've just got in touch with Pat Blais from eBay, he mentioned I need a 68' valve body casting to make the PTK work. Kind of unfortunate, but I'll focus on the transmission re-assembly and maybe touch base on the PTK kit at a later date.

 

[Sir Dodge alot]

Cleaning the case off and lookie here, Here's the case stamp #
Decoding this'll be fun.

#F2464424 0889383

 

[Sir Dodge alot]

Just a few things I decided to add before the transmission gets buttoned up and ready to put back into the barge.

I suppose this may be considered "butcherd"
But I decided to run an auxiliary Transmission cooler, while I was at it I added a power steering cooler also.

I'm aware that some factory Chrysler Newports (1970?) Had a power steering cooler, but finding one (even in good condition) seems like a needle in a hay stack.

So I'm going with a Fin/tube style witch is for the power steering, it's not smashed against the frame as the picture suggests but spaced away slightly from the frame.

The lower one secured to the frame is a heat sink style, that is for the transmission.

Routing the transmission cooler lines will be:
Transmission -> radiator -> Auxiliary cooler -> Transmission.

The astute observer will notice there is no in-line Thermostat to control the ATF fluid temperature on whether it will by pass the cooler or not.

The temps in Texas is a constant blaze, and the temperature emanating from the bell housing,
(When the transmission was operating few weeks back) even in winter months it's still hot, I think I'll be fine without a Thermostat, but time will tell, if not, I'll add a Thermostat in-line.

 

[Boydsdodge]

Just a few things I decided to add before the transmission gets buttoned up and ready to put back into the barge.

I suppose this may be considered "butcherd"
But I decided to run an auxiliary Transmission cooler, while I was at it I added a power steering cooler also.

I'm aware that some factory Chrysler Newports (1970?) Had a power steering cooler, but finding one (even in good condition) seems like a needle in a hay stack.

So I'm going with a Fin/tube style witch is for the power steering, it's not smashed against the frame as the picture suggests but spaced away slightly from the frame.

The lower one secured to the frame is a heat sink style, that is for the transmission.

Routing the transmission cooler lines will be:
Transmission -> radiator -> Auxiliary cooler -> Transmission.

The astute observer will notice there is no in-line Thermostat to control the ATF fluid temperature on whether it will by pass the cooler or not.

The temps in Texas is a constant blaze, and the temperature emanating from the bell housing,
(When the transmission was operating few weeks back) even in winter months it's still hot, I think I'll be fine without a Thermostat, but time will tell, if not, I'll add a Thermostat in-line.

View attachment 647006

Your location of the cooler is asking for trouble, road debis, curb at the drive in, etc...

 

[Sir Dodge alot]

Your location of the cooler is asking for trouble, road debis, curb at the drive in, etc...

Yes, I considered as much, I'll re-adjust to a different location I have in mind.

I considered the area just behind the front bumper,
in front of the radiator,
but some of those locations I had in mind for something else...

More on later!

 

[Sir Dodge alot]

New Torque converter has arrived!

Comparison of the old/new.

New looks slightly smaller.
I can surmise the old converter is maybe a 1750/1900 stall?

New is Hughes performance Torque converters part number #19-20. 1900/2000 stall.

The flex plate mounting areas looks to be at the same height?? So I can reuse the flex plate if able.

Picture brightness has been modified to be able to see the underside of the mounting areas better.

It's in red so maximum HP numbers! XD
Original in Cyan for maximum patina XD

 

[Big_John]

The flex plate mounting areas looks to be at the same height?? So I can reuse the flex plate if able.

You're gonna need a different flex plate.

Smaller convertor has smaller bolt circle.

Check the bolt size too... Some performance convertors used a larger bolt. Actually they use the same bolts that attach the flex plate to the crank.

 

[Sir Dodge alot]

You're gonna need a different flex plate.

Smaller convertor has smaller bolt circle.

Check the bolt size too... Some performance convertors used a larger bolt. Actually they use the same bolts that attach the flex plate to the crank.

So I presume, to get a new flexplate.
you need to measure the new converter bolt circle size and go from there?