I use 10W-30 Penn oil in my cars with a NAPA Gold (Wix) filter.
Some info on filters. Oil Filters Revealed - MiniMopar Resources
Some info on filters. Oil Filters Revealed - MiniMopar Resources
What engine oil are you using?
- Thread starter bollotti
- Start date
10W30 Dino oil, (relabeled Valvoline), with a Wix filter. The newer cars get full syn.
Kristof
Member
Valvoline VR1 20W50 + half a quart of Edelbrock zinc additive (just to be safe ) with Motorcraft or K&N filter (for a 318 poly engine).
With respect to the current Rotella T_ line of motor oil, the original 15W-40 and 5W-40 oils still have the normal, though reduced from earlier times (to approx. 1200ppm zddp, from the 1400-1600ppm from about 10 years ago) zddp. The other multi-grades and multi-make Rotellas dont' have that much, according to the Virgin Oil Analysis posts at www.bobistheoilguy.com .
When the service designation went to CJ, I believe, from the prior CI, the zddp levels dropped, but Shell's literature indicated a much better additive (cleanliness) package with that change. Later oil analysis posts showed it still at 1400ppm, back then.
The earlier SL-rated synthetics that were needed in the VW diesels (with the fuel pump run off of the camshaft) needed that synthetic oil for the cam to live. Zddp was at about 1000ppm in that synthetic basestock oil. Normal dino SL oils were 1000ppm zddp levels, with the synthetic oil making it that much better.
So, NOT all of the Rotellas have the same level of zddp in them. Have to research which ones do in the oil analysis postings, to be sure.
One of the Joe Gibbs oils, for NASCAR racing use, has something like 3000ppm of zddp. Other threads in the bob's website state that such high levels of zddp tend to compromise the general additive package for detergency and such. So you can get too much zddp with some "mixes". At this time, I suspect that most of the zddp addirives are meant to be used with current SN-rated oils which usually have 700-800ppm zddp in them, to boost that level to something that flat tappets and strong spring pressures tent to like/need. In an engine that will see only 600 miles of use, in a harsh environment, oil detergency will not be an issue as the engine will be torn down at the end of every race, pulled apart, inspected, cleaned, re-assembled to race another day. Not the same as a street car that will see 3000+ mile oil changes, where oil detergency is more important.
There are about 50+ pages of threads/postings of Virgin Oil Analysis in the www.bobistheoilguy.com website. Which goes back a few years, by observations. You can watch how things have changed, even from the first "SN" oils to the current "SN Plus" oils to help combat LowSpeedPreIgnition for direct-injected motors (which "Driven" has a version of).
Enjoy!
CBODY67
When the service designation went to CJ, I believe, from the prior CI, the zddp levels dropped, but Shell's literature indicated a much better additive (cleanliness) package with that change. Later oil analysis posts showed it still at 1400ppm, back then.
The earlier SL-rated synthetics that were needed in the VW diesels (with the fuel pump run off of the camshaft) needed that synthetic oil for the cam to live. Zddp was at about 1000ppm in that synthetic basestock oil. Normal dino SL oils were 1000ppm zddp levels, with the synthetic oil making it that much better.
So, NOT all of the Rotellas have the same level of zddp in them. Have to research which ones do in the oil analysis postings, to be sure.
One of the Joe Gibbs oils, for NASCAR racing use, has something like 3000ppm of zddp. Other threads in the bob's website state that such high levels of zddp tend to compromise the general additive package for detergency and such. So you can get too much zddp with some "mixes". At this time, I suspect that most of the zddp addirives are meant to be used with current SN-rated oils which usually have 700-800ppm zddp in them, to boost that level to something that flat tappets and strong spring pressures tent to like/need. In an engine that will see only 600 miles of use, in a harsh environment, oil detergency will not be an issue as the engine will be torn down at the end of every race, pulled apart, inspected, cleaned, re-assembled to race another day. Not the same as a street car that will see 3000+ mile oil changes, where oil detergency is more important.
There are about 50+ pages of threads/postings of Virgin Oil Analysis in the www.bobistheoilguy.com website. Which goes back a few years, by observations. You can watch how things have changed, even from the first "SN" oils to the current "SN Plus" oils to help combat LowSpeedPreIgnition for direct-injected motors (which "Driven" has a version of).
Enjoy!
CBODY67
MoPar Maniac
Well-Known Member
We tried Joe Gibbs oil in the Brand C racing engines back when it first came out. If you will recall when na$car started using the E15 fuel Gibbs was blowing a lot of engines.
We had the same problems with new engines. Called Gibbs and they said it wasn't the oil....rebuilt the engines and used Red Line or Royal Purple and had no problems.
Every time Gibbs was used there was an engine failure.
Oh....did I mention E15? We were running E100.
Come to find out the oil was being diluted by the alcohol since you must run E100 so rich it washes down the cylinders and the blowby fills the sump.
Red Line and Royal Purple didn't have that problem.
Then Gibbs told us the problem was solved. Not true. First time out it blew. Rebuilt the engine and it blew. Rebuilt it and used RP with no problem.
We later found out Gibbs was using a different oil.
Granted they used E15 but they did acknowledge there was a problem with the oil at that time.
BTW after a night of racing we would drain the RP into a metal pan, flash off the alcohol and put the oil back in the engine. Worked fine. Other oils looked like milk due to the oil and alk mixing.
Oh....Super Tech 10-30 in the 318 with a Purolator or Motorcraft filter.
But I have roller lifters...no tappets. I don't want anything tapping on my cam.
20-50 with a UFI filter in the bikes.
We had the same problems with new engines. Called Gibbs and they said it wasn't the oil....rebuilt the engines and used Red Line or Royal Purple and had no problems.
Every time Gibbs was used there was an engine failure.
Oh....did I mention E15? We were running E100.
Come to find out the oil was being diluted by the alcohol since you must run E100 so rich it washes down the cylinders and the blowby fills the sump.
Red Line and Royal Purple didn't have that problem.
Then Gibbs told us the problem was solved. Not true. First time out it blew. Rebuilt the engine and it blew. Rebuilt it and used RP with no problem.
We later found out Gibbs was using a different oil.
Granted they used E15 but they did acknowledge there was a problem with the oil at that time.
BTW after a night of racing we would drain the RP into a metal pan, flash off the alcohol and put the oil back in the engine. Worked fine. Other oils looked like milk due to the oil and alk mixing.
Oh....Super Tech 10-30 in the 318 with a Purolator or Motorcraft filter.
But I have roller lifters...no tappets. I don't want anything tapping on my cam.
20-50 with a UFI filter in the bikes.
Pennzoil High Mileage 10w30 and Wix oil filter with STP or Lucas additive.
Nothing fancy for the BoaB's 40 over 383 and for good reason..
With the travelling she has been doing it can be bought anywhere including Shell stations when needed.
Try buying Gibbs oil in the middle of Delaware at a truck stop. Didn't think so...
Daily grinder 2008 300C gets full synthetic 5w20
Nothing fancy for the BoaB's 40 over 383 and for good reason..
With the travelling she has been doing it can be bought anywhere including Shell stations when needed.
Try buying Gibbs oil in the middle of Delaware at a truck stop. Didn't think so...
Daily grinder 2008 300C gets full synthetic 5w20
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tbm3fan
Old Man with a Hat
I use a 10-40 Havoline mostly along with Motorcraft filters in my 360.
Very helpful as I need oil and filter for my '71 Monaco's first oil change under new ownership. She has 76k miles on its original T-code engine.
Rip, any reason why you're considering switching from 20w-50 to 15w-40?
Gentlemen, to be clear:
1. are you referring to this semi-synthetic Brad Penn PennGrade1 15W-40? (photo below)
2. Which WIX filter do you use? For my '71 Monaco, Summit lists 4 different ones (photo below) whereas the WIX website only suggests the cheapest one, 51068.
Rip, any reason why you're considering switching from 20w-50 to 15w-40?
Gentlemen, to be clear:
1. are you referring to this semi-synthetic Brad Penn PennGrade1 15W-40? (photo below)
2. Which WIX filter do you use? For my '71 Monaco, Summit lists 4 different ones (photo below) whereas the WIX website only suggests the cheapest one, 51068.
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I don’t run synthetic just straight 30 or straight 40. I don’t change my oil thinking I’m going to put more then 3k miles on before the next change so...
Yes, Brad Penn is now Penn Grade and that is the oil that I and others recommend. I suggest buying it by the case off eBay or on Amazon.
If your engine is a bit tired and uses some oil, or if you live in a very hot climate you might want to consider the 20W-50.
I use the NAPA Gold 1515 oil filter, which is made by Wix and is the same as the 51515XP. The NAPA gold 1515 is only $8.00. The 51068 is the short version of the 1515 and the 51452 appears to be a a tractor application.
The Wix 51515R is the racing oil filter.
If your engine is a bit tired and uses some oil, or if you live in a very hot climate you might want to consider the 20W-50.
I use the NAPA Gold 1515 oil filter, which is made by Wix and is the same as the 51515XP. The NAPA gold 1515 is only $8.00. The 51068 is the short version of the 1515 and the 51452 appears to be a a tractor application.
The Wix 51515R is the racing oil filter.
Ripinator
Old Man with a Hat
Michel:
Yes. The Penn Grade 15W-40 semi synthetic is the oil I am thinking of. I feel it may flow a little better at start-up than the 20W-50. Also, the WIX filter Bill mentions above is the one to use, and I usually get the NAPA Gold version. Summit also sells the WIX brand, and its the same filter as the NAPA Gold.
That is an excellent oil to use!
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