What viscosity and brand engine oil and filter do you prefer to use in your C-Body?

[1978 NYB]

As a Young'n, you bought Fram because it was the best at any price.
Can't believe how a corporation with their background can run a company down the toilet like that.
Damn shame.

So true. As soon as a great manufacturer sells the proven sound business to a huge corporation, the first thing the corporation contemplates is how can we cut costs and make more money. Sadly, it comes down to buying sh*t materials from China, Mexico, etc. Then labor costs...

 

[polara71]

So true. As soon as a great manufacturer sells the proven sound business to a huge corporation, the first thing the corporation contemplates is how can we cut costs and make more money. Sadly, it comes down to buying sh*t materials from China, Mexico, etc. Then labor costs...

Its called greed, be it foreign or American. Many good corporations are run into the grounds by greed.

 

[68plymouth383]

I run Valvoline Vr1 20w/50 Oil In my Newly built 440hp. With a Wix oil filter.

 

[moonrunner1972]

I have always used castrol GTX in all of my Mopars ranging from my first Slant 6 to my current 400 big block without a single problem. I changed from Fram to Wix about 5-7 years ago after I had cut one open and compared the filter media. Granted I never had a problem using Fram however I like the idea of having a little additional protection.
:sFl_america2:

 

[393foureyedfox]

pennzoil full synthetic 10w-40, changed once a year right before the nationals trip, and either a napa gold filter, or an purolator pure one (same filter, different marketing). the car sees maybe 1500 miles a year.

I use a good name brand synthetic (pennzoil or mobil) in all my cars and change them all once a year in early august (that way I remember them all, instead of watching mileage). none of them see more than 6000 a year, so on a full synthetic, thats not an issue

 

[polara71]

either a napa gold filter, or an purolator pure one (same filter, different marketing).

The Purolator is made by WIX?

 

[commando1]

The Purolator is made by WIX?

No. He said the NAPA brand filter is made by Purolator.
NAPA also sells WIX.

 

[polara71]

No, he said Napa gold and purolator pure one are made by the same company. Napa gold is made by WIX

 

[commando1]

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6BQha9MSM-U
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MGJqCDKrbAk
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=w_HSlXetWko

 

[polara71]

What is it with you? You live and die by youtube.

 

[commando1]

Beats xxxporn.com

 

[newportmopar66]

i use the mopar filters walmart sells and i use dello 400 lol.

 

[commando1]

???

< Sent from my tablet >

 

[Jdlov]

I use Amsoil Z-ROD® 10W-30 Synthetic Motor Oil

Per their ad:

AMSOIL Z-ROD Synthetic Motor Oil is specially engineered for classic and high-performance vehicles. A high-zinc formulation to prevent wear on flat-tappet camshafts and other critical engine components, along with a proprietary blend of rust and corrosion inhibitors for added protection during long-term storage.

 

[twostick]

I run 15/40 Rotella in both C-bodies and a 4.8 Silverado I have with north of 350K miles on it.

Mobil1 in the 300C and 03 4.7 Ram.

5/40 Rotella T6 Synthetic in my 99 Diesel Dodge.

Wix filters on them all after seeing a Fram and a Wix disassembled on the bench in front of me.

You don't need to know ANYTHING about filters to know which one is superior after that.

Kevin

 

[shooter65]

I'm running Mobil 1 10w40 with the standard Purolator Classic filter in my Fury 440 HP. I don’t drive it much and have actually started teardown for a proper restoration but I was changing it in the spring and fall because I never put 3K miles on it in a year.

I run Mobil 1 5w40 with the standard Purolator Classic filter in both my wife's Avenger and Charger, both 3.5L H.O. I also put a quart of Slick 50 in at 50K mile intervals starting at 6K after break in. I change the oil every 3K miles.

I run Amzoil 15w40 with a Mopar filter in my Ram 6.7 Diesel. I change it every 6K miles.

I used to run Fram filters but there's been so much bad PR about the construction of the Fram filters over the past couple years that I started researching it and decided to switch. Not that I was really worried about it but it became obvious that they were cutting as many corners as they could so screw um, I’m not buying their junk.

I then switched to Purolator Pure and started researching it. One article I read, talked about the potential for increased oil pressure with any ultra high micron, premium filter which theoretically could cause issues. I found that of the basic filters, the Purolator Classic is constructed well, at least when I did my research, and readily available at most parts stores so that’s why I use it.

As DetMatt said, the most important thing is to keep the oil changed at regular intervals and the filter really isn’t going to matter much. Oh, and I know I change my oil sooner than the recommended oil change for all my vehicles but if you consider the function of the oil, it can only help.

My two previous vehicles, 1996 Dodge Intrepid 3.3L, sold with 160K miles, didn’t burn oil, no noticeable power loss from new and still got the same gas mileage as new which was better than either the Charger or the Avenger. 1998 Dodge Ram 1500 4x4 5.9L Gas, sold with 200K miles, didn’t burn oil, no noticeable power loss from new and still got the same gas mileage as new. I used Fram filters, Mobil 1 and Slick 50 every 50K miles. Sold the Intrepid because it sat more than it was driven after my wife got the Avenger and I sold my truck because the bed and driver door were rotting and I didn’t want to replace body panels on a daily driver gas engine truck with 200K miles.

Before my 1998 Ram, I had a 1988 Chevy S10, same oil change regiment and my old mechanic for inspection and things I didn’t have time for bought it from me in 1998 when I bought my Ram. In 2012, I was talking to them and it had been relegated to farm duty because of the rusted body but it was still running.

Hindsight, for what I sold the Intrepid and 98 Ram for, I wish I would have kept them both but that’s just me. No such thing as too much land, too many cars, or too many guns.

 

[celticwarlock]

10W30 Pennzoil and a Bosch oil filter either twice a year or every 3K, depending on how much my '69 NY gets driven. I also use Lucas oil stabilizer and STP additive in the oil, and a dash of Marvel's Mystery Oil in the fuel.

 

[1966newport]

puralotor filters are known for tearing and wix is now part of puralator

 

[twostick]

puralotor filters are known for tearing and wix is now part of puralator

Well kinda sorta not really.

Purolator is owned by Mann + Hummel, a German company.

MANN+HUMMEL: MANN+HUMMEL takes over Purolator filters joint venture from Bosch

Mann + Hummel purchased the Wix auto filtration unit of Affinia Group last year.

http://www.hdma.org/Main-Menu/HDMA-...Hummel-Buys-Affinias-Wix-Filtration-Unit.html

Kevin

 

[cantflip]

I know this thread started a while ago, but it is still an ongoing topic to consider. The standards for motor oil have continued to change more and more formulations to less and less antiwear agents (ZDDP...) to meet with federal emission standards. Face it, in the grand scheme of things there just isn't enough market for these products and it will continue to diminish. I have been looking at and carefully considering this stuff too.
FWIW, I am a long time user of Wix filters (or NAPA gold) and have had a small number of failures over the decades. Usually on older sludgey engines where the complaint related to low pressure at stoplights, new filter always solved that issue in my experience and there is a pressure relief valve built in if the filter was immediately restricted by fresh oil cleaning up the evils. Always just warrantied them, never cut on open, and the problem never returned. I have avoided Fram since the late 80s early 90s when the cutaway displays started to show up. I suppose I will continue to use them until they prove to be lesser quality.

I hate this, but I have had a fair number of incorrectly cut threads on Wix and some other brands over the years, but at 500+ filters a year... you will find defects.

As to motor oil, I am still undecided. I heard some Rotella is still made for older engines but CJ-4 rating is lower zinc formula. Also diesel oils may not provide as much storage protection. Amsoil ZROD sounds interesting, but I am not sure I love synthetic for this application. Brad Penn is the old Kendall refinery's new label after the name was sold away, I can not swear they are still using "obsolete" oil formulations. There are several performance and classic oriented brands, but I am not a believer. I have read the claim that Mobil 1 15W50 is an older formula, but doubt it has stayed that way...

What I really want to know is... does anybody have a compelling reason for use of a brand that is based on current information? Past experience really doesn't count as more oils are rated SL, SM, SN all the time and they DO NOT contain the antiwear additives we may be looking for.

How many of you have experienced oil leaks with the change to synthetics? That is supposed to be the common issue with their use in older engine designs (rope seals). Also low viscosity can lead to lower oil pressure on older engines which have much larger clearances than newer engines. I doubt we could trace many failures directly to a newer grade of oil in a high mile engine, but it is a scary thought that your favorite classic could be sidelined by this issue.

At some point the emission liability and low demand will pretty much eliminate the availability of "flat tappet" oils and we will all be on borrowed time. Like leaded fuels, I believe there will still be lots of engines that survive, even if there are also documented failures. The best thing is to change it often enough and run it often enough... IDK if anything else is really a cure or just the placebo effect.