What viscosity and brand engine oil and filter do you prefer to use in your C-Body?

[polara71]

10w30 in the winter and 10w40 in the summer,

Thats what you were supposed to do :read2: the good ol days

 

[tbm3fan]

Just curious, why did you stop using Fram?

Back around 1985 Allied Chemical merged with Signals Company. Allied had bought Bendix in 1983 who had owned Fram since 1967 from the original people. Honeywell got involved in 1999 but I had already heard comments that build quality had been sacrificed some due to all these companies buying or acquiring each other. Now just early last year Honeywell sold it's consumer auto products division to a company out of New Zealand for $950 million. Honeywell was all blah blah this and that about the sale but the bottom line was the division wasn't making the profits they wanted despite cost cutting. What the new owners do one will have to wait and see till time to cut filters apart once again.

 

[detmatt]

Back around 1985 Allied Chemical merged with Signals Company. Allied had bought Bendix in 1983 who had owned Fram since 1967 from the original people. Honeywell got involved in 1999 but I had already heard comments that build quality had been sacrificed some due to all these companies buying or acquiring each other. Now just early last year Honeywell sold it's consumer auto products division to a company out of New Zealand for $950 million. Honeywell was all blah blah this and that about the sale but the bottom line was the division wasn't making the profits they wanted despite cost cutting. What the new owners do one will have to wait and see till time to cut filters apart once again.

Thanks man, I will be thinking about that when its time to go by my next filter.

 

[1978 NYB]

Just about everyone that manufacturers a product tries to cut production costs by buying "off shore" materials. The Fram filter boxes that I have says made in the USA.

 

[BillGrissom]

Don't take this as gospel, but I think 10W30 will give a little better mileage than 10W40. That is why most manufacturer's specify it since the 90's. However, if you have a carburetor, your engine likely runs a bit richer with more gas diluting the oil on the cylinder walls, so 10W40 may be better. Since cars went EFI w/ O2 sensors, cylinder wall wear is much reduced. If you have taken a newer engine apart, you find there is no noticeable ridge even after 200,000 miles, if the engine controls were working. Not to say they run forever (warped alum heads, broken timing belts, etc). I have an O2 sensor and TBI on my Newport, so feel safe using 10W30.

 

[commando1]

No flames please.
On my New Yorker, I use Walmart 10-40 and any national brand filter except Fram.
On my wife's RX-8 Wankel, I'm forced to fork over a few more pennies to 10-50 because they burn a qt/1k miles which is "normal".
On my F-150, whatever they throw in for the $16.95 w/coupon special. I can't do it myself that cheap.

 

[tbm3fan]

Instead of saying Walmart you should say Super Tech as that oil does have a decent reputation in oil circles especially given the price be it dino or synthetic. Most people abuse oil mainly in using too long for a given oil. Some are good for 5,000 miles while some are very good for extended drain intervals. Since I change the oils in the early model cars every year I could use most, not all as some are bad, out there. The two daily drivers are changed every 5000 miles and get 5W-20 and 5W-30 from either Chevron Supreme or Mobil Super 5000. The older cars get 15W-40 HDEO in either Chevron Delo or Shell Rotella. Three of those four will get a retro roller conversion at engine rebuild time. The Cougar gets VR1 10W-30 due to the cam profile.

http://www.pqiamerica.com/

 

[commando1]

Instead of saying Walmart you should say Super Tech as that oil does have a decent reputation in oil circles especially given the price be it dino or synthetic.

I knew that.
Most oil snobs out there don't.

 

[Newport65]

Havoline T35 oil filters or the Wix 1068 (I think that is the #)
10w40 oil

'73 400

 

[commando1]

Timely topic.
Went to change the oil yesterday so I stopped at A-Z.
Just as I walked in the door there was a table display for an DIY oil change special.
5 qts of Penzoil (your choice), an STP oil filter, a roll of blue paper towels, a can of Go-Jo, and a drain pan for $21.95.
In and out in less than 5 minutes...:blob1:

 

[rexus31]

I use 30w Valvoline with 1 bottle of ZDDP additive and a Wix filter.

 

[1978 NYB]

What is the ZDDP additive? Some sort of zinc additive? Where do you buy it?

 

[commando1]

It refers to the zinc and phosphorous added to motor oil which the gummint mandated to be reduced in motor oils because they shortened the life of catalytic converters.
Every auto parts store and the automotive dept. at Walmart has it.
You can skip the additive if you're alreadiy using Mobil 1 or Shell Rotella (for diesels - it's great stuff for automotive engines).
I don't totally buy into this whole ZDDP thing because of what I have read but I don't begrudge anyone who does want to use it. One engine I built using the proper pre-lubing, break-in oil, and high ZDDP oil still wiped out a cam lobe withing 2K miles, so I don't think ZDDP is the weak link in the chain when garbage Chinese castings are using inferior iron and steel to begin with.

 

[rexus31]

Cheap insurance. Valvoline ZR-1 oils have the proper amounts of ZDDP but it is expensive. The best solution is to run a roller cam.

 

[Bryan]

I use Mobil1 15/50 oil and either Baldwin, Cenex or Supertech oil filters.

 

[Canada]

I run 10-40 Rotella Diesel oil w/ Mopar filter. Seems to work great so far... Has high zinc (as mentioned) and the filter looks good in the engine bay ;)

 

[detmatt]

I just changed the oil in my `67 Imperial for the first time and went with a Mopar filter(why wouldn't I?) and used Castrol 10W-30 mainly because I have been using Castrol oil in my vehicles for at least 20 years without 1 negative incident related to engine lubrication. I am considering adding the ZDDP though as a little insurance.

 

[1966FuryVIP]

Oil and filter?

I have been using one of the Castrol conventional oils, 5W20 or 10W30, with the middle grade Fram filter for fifty years. Never have had a part fail in an engine oiled that way, and I am known to keep cars for ten or twenty years. Now that I am buying and rebuilding older cars I can not see a reason to change, unless of course I build one with 8000 horses.

 

[1966newport]

fram , cheap filter at a prenuim price

 

[commando1]

As a Young'n, you bought Fram because it was the best at any price.
Can't believe how a corporation with their background can run a company down the toilet like that.
Damn shame.