Where so i find cheap socket for upper ball joints on my '65 new yorker?

I have a Wright 6888 socket That I originally purchased for a 73 Barracuda I had at the time, it fits my 69 Polara perfectly.
It measures about 1-59/64


Alan

I wonder if they used a larger socket on the later cars.

The socket I had for my C-bodies grew legs and walked off some years ago, so I can't measure it. I keep thinking it wasn't the same one as the B-Body but that socket also walked off at the same time. It's a long story... All I have now is a couple early A body sockets.

My sympathies to you. If Mopar adopted a larger upper ball joint for the C bodies, it was later, with the Formals I reckon. The fusies still used the 1 59/64 size.... Didn't the Formals also get a larger rear end, like, 9.25"?
My friend Jerry is a B-Body man. His B-Body socket is 1.925", which is the same as 1 59/64. That is also the measurement for the Moog K772 upper ball joints I bought and for the original upper ball joints on the car. I think B-Body and C-body upper ball joint sockets are the same at least through 1971. Thanks Gerald & Alan!
 
My friend Jerry is a B-Body man. His B-Body socket is 1.925", which is the same as 1 59/64. That is also the measurement for the Moog K772 upper ball joints I bought and for the original upper ball joints on the car. I think B-Body and C-body upper ball joint sockets are the same at least through 1971. Thanks Gerald & Alan!
So, I looked up K722 and that fits a multitude of cars... and looks like 1961-1978 C-bodies. At least that is what Rock Auto lists.

Now I'm wondering if that is an Imperial or truck socket. I seem to remember getting that info from someplace that I trusted... and it jived with my memory, so I thought it was good.
 
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So, I looked up K722 and that fits a multitude of cars... and looks like 1961-1982 C-bodies. At least that is what Rock Auto lists.

Now I'm wondering if that is an Imperial or truck socket. I seem to remember getting that info from someplace that I trusted... and it jived with my memory, so I thought it was good.
Not sure what 2 9/64 fits. Just to complicate things, in post #3 of this thread, MetalManiacAZ gives a link for the 2 9/64, but says the 1 59/64 fits his 66.:rolleyes:

Rock Auto: of course, I thought C-Bodies were 1965-1978. Shows what I know.:lol:
 
Not sure what 2 9/64 fits. Just to complicate things, in post #3 of this thread, MetalManiacAZ gives a link for the 2 9/64, but says the 1 59/64 fits his 66.:rolleyes:

Rock Auto: of course, I thought C-Bodies were 1965-1978. Shows what I know.:lol:
Geez... When I screw up, it doesn't stop... I saw "New Yorker" and didn't give it another thought.

I edited my post.

I can't edit my first post now... I'll see if I can get a mod to do it later.
 
Geez... When I screw up, it doesn't stop... I saw "New Yorker" and didn't give it another thought.

I edited my post.

I can't edit my first post now... I'll see if I can get a mod to do it later.
NBD. You're still the great Mopar Guru to me. Like when Big John says it, you know it's true.
 
Not sure what 2 9/64 fits. Just to complicate things, in post #3 of this thread, MetalManiacAZ gives a link for the 2 9/64, but says the 1 59/64 fits his 66.:rolleyes:

Rock Auto: of course, I thought C-Bodies were 1965-1978. Shows what I know.:lol:
Yeah, sorry if I confused anyone. That's the only active ebay link I could find for a Sunex. The 1 59/64 is what I bought.
 
Yeah, sorry if I confused anyone. That's the only active ebay link I could find for a Sunex. The 1 59/64 is what I bought.

I did the exact same thing, and likely from the same vendor. It's an adequate socket, for shade-cactus mechanics such as us.
 
Yeah, sorry if I confused anyone. That's the only active ebay link I could find for a Sunex. The 1 59/64 is what I bought.
No Problem. I should have measured to make sure John's post was correct.

I initiated a return with eBay seller. Haven't heard back.
 
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Regarding separating the ball joint stud from the spindle.

Place pickle fork tool in desired position. Place long pipe (say 4 feet long) over pickle fork handle shaft.
Slide long solid rod (say 6 feet long) into long pipe.
Slide the long solid rod that is now inside the long pipe so as to smack the pickle fork tool with the amount of force needed to separate parts.
We're talking a 10plus pound solid bar, so don't go all postal on the thing. Just hit it with a few easy taps, then increase the force as needed. It don't take much.

Much less stress on the spindle than beating on the side of the spindle.

Getting the balljoint out of the control arm? Well, you're on your own there. I use a 1-inch impact if the 3/4 don't do it.
 
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Back in about 1987 when I was rebuilding (as best I could) my '67 Monaco, I changed the upper ball joint and upper bushings on only the driver's side. I have had in my parts stash for many years a set for the passenger side, I can only assume they are identical to what I put on in '87. Below is a photo of this "NOS" ball joint (on the right) and a new joint I bought from rockauto this year.

balljoint.jpg


The old joint does not have a bright finish, and it has these marks stamped on the top surface:

USA BJ6612 K 4588

The new joint (on the left) is a QuickSteer K772 (or possibly EXCK772) made in, of course, China. I note the slight difference in various dimensions. The threaded tops of both are the same length, it might appear different in the photo. The flats of the new joint do appear thinner, they come close to being 1/4 inch thick only at the center point. The old joint has a uniform thickness of 1/4 inch (better to put a socket on).
 
Back in about 1987 when I was rebuilding (as best I could) my '67 Monaco, I changed the upper ball joint and upper bushings on only the driver's side. I have had in my parts stash for many years a set for the passenger side, I can only assume they are identical to what I put on in '87. Below is a photo of this "NOS" ball joint (on the right) and a new joint I bought from rockauto this year.



The old joint does not have a bright finish, and it has these marks stamped on the top surface:

USA BJ6612 K 4588

The new joint (on the left) is a QuickSteer K772 (or possibly EXCK772) made in, of course, China. I note the slight difference in various dimensions. The threaded tops of both are the same length, it might appear different in the photo. The flats of the new joint do appear thinner, they come close to being 1/4 inch thick only at the center point. The old joint has a uniform thickness of 1/4 inch (better to put a socket on).
The WORST FAILING of the Quicksteer is that its 1/32" too small in diameter! Typical asian DANGEROUS CRAP! This thing will REMAIN LOOSE IN THE CONTROL ARM! You will not get to put 125 ft-lbs of torque on it. It will bottom in easy, then spin in the hole in your control arm. I'd say the Quicksteer is a BUMSTEER!
 
The WORST FAILING of the Quicksteer is that its 1/32" too small in diameter! Typical asian DANGEROUS CRAP! This thing will REMAIN LOOSE IN THE CONTROL ARM! You will not get to put 125 ft-lbs of torque on it. It will bottom in easy, then spin in the hole in your control arm. I'd say the Quicksteer is a BUMSTEER!

Is the actual tread size smaller? Or just the wrench head size smaller?
 
As best as I can measure, and I can try it again, there is a difference (just under 1/128 inch) in the thread diameter between the 2 joints I have (and a bit of a difference in the wrench size).
 
1/128 inch, or .0078 of an inch on the tread. Don't seem like a lot of difference.
Well, I would be surprised if it didn't fit and provide reasonable service.
 
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