Just Brought- 1965 300L 4 Speed

When I took my '59 Imperial tank down the gasoline gas turned to large hard pieces. How many years did it take to change to solids?
 
When I took my '59 Imperial tank down the gasoline gas turned to large hard pieces. How many years did it take to change to solids?
Must take a long time, my Fury was parked in 1978 and sat until I started to evaluate it to see if it was a candidate for restoration in 1996. In a "what the heck" moment I put a battery in it and turned it over while pumping the gas. After about 2 min it not only started, but idled pretty good once warmed up. I figure the tank was about 3/4 full. I do remember the exhaust stunk really bad.
Ma Mopar built some pretty tough stuff!
 
Funny how 1978 gasoline can still be good after 30+ years and the ethanol crap you bought last year has turned into dried shellac.
 
For the first time in my life I'm using fuel stabilizer. Turns out modern fuel breaks down after about 3 months.
 
I pulled the gas tank off to be cleaned and repaired. What a mess... The gas that was left in the tank looked like dark coffee. It's at the repair shop now. I'm also starting to get all of my parts together to start the rebirth.

:popcorn:
 
That **** in the tank was nasty smelling. I don't know if it would even burn. When I took the sending unit out or should I say what was left of it, the float was missing. I drained the tank and the float was still missing.
 
For the first time in my life I'm using fuel stabilizer. Turns out modern fuel breaks down after about 3 months.
I believe in stabilizer, I left my 56 New Yorker sit in the garage for ten years with a full tank of gas. Every year I would add more stabilizer. When I went to get it running their was no bad smell and the old Hemi purred like a kitten.
 
I drive so little that I throw in a can of acetone every so often to dissolve the built up shellac.
 
Stan, you are aware that the console top plate is incorrect? The 300 L and 65 Sport Fury use the "woodgrain" embossed top plate. Very hard to find. ABC reproduces it in fiberglass. $65 looks good fits good, just not metal.
Great car Stan, you lucky dog!would be curious what you paid. I am about to sell my 4speed and my other collection.
Tom Denkler
 
Stan, you are aware that the console top plate is incorrect? The 300 L and 65 Sport Fury use the "woodgrain" embossed top plate. Very hard to find. ABC reproduces it in fiberglass. $65 looks good fits good, just not metal.
Great car Stan, you lucky dog!would be curious what you paid. I am about to sell my 4speed and my other collection.
Tom Denkler
Tom, you may remember that you and I have had that inconclusive discussion on what cars got what console tops. My 65 SF has the woodgrain top, and all the pics I have saved of 65 SF and 300L 4-speed cars have the flat top.

HOWEVER - some years ago I bought a 65 SF 4spd conversion kit from a guy (console, pedals, linkage, z-bar and bracket, trans hump) and it had a ribbed top. I believe it was from a 65(just like he told me) as it had the squared tower for the shifter hump. So there's an exception, so I still think there is no hard-fast rule.

I've just reviewed some pics I've saved over the years, and it seems like the L would have the woodgrain top, however I'm betting this car is original and is yet another exception.

I wonder if the factory shared inventory on the console tops as demand on 4-speed cars was so low???
 
I believe this car has a rare rear end in it. Dana 53 (9.25") I believe. If it does, I sure would like to see a bunch of pictures of that rear axle when you get a chance.
That Dana rearend was used only in 67-68, and only on the 440 4-speed cars, 383 4-speed cars still got the standard 8-3/4 rearend. All 65-66 4-speed cars got the 8-3/4", regardless of engine.

I participated in a very good thread on that axle on Moparts (of all places!) but lost my link to it when they went to the new board forum in the last few years. IIRC Furyman (?) has such a car and posted some pics. A google search could probably find that thread if you want to probe a bit. IIIRC it was one of the few threads where people weren't jumping in to tell you how wrong you were. Well, they probably did initially, but after they realized it was about C-bodies and that we knew something they didn't, the know-it-alls went away.

Here's a thread, but not the one I'm thinking of, for it has no pics:
did fury's come with DANA rear ends???? | Moparts Question and Answer | Moparts Forums
 
Tom, you may remember that you and I have had that inconclusive discussion on what cars got what console tops. My 65 SF has the woodgrain top, and all the pics I have saved of 65 SF and 300L 4-speed cars have the flat top.

HOWEVER - some years ago I bought a 65 SF 4spd conversion kit from a guy (console, pedals, linkage, z-bar and bracket, trans hump) and it had a ribbed top. I believe it was from a 65(just like he told me) as it had the squared tower for the shifter hump. So there's an exception, so I still think there is no hard-fast rule.

I've just reviewed some pics I've saved over the years, and it seems like the L would have the woodgrain top, however I'm betting this car is original and is yet another exception.

I wonder if the factory shared inventory on the console tops as demand on 4-speed cars was so low???
Good observations!
I am pretty sure that all 4 speed L's had the woodgrain. I've never seen one without it. However, I've seen L automatics with flat,flat swirled,flat dulled finish,etc.
Seems most SF 4 speeds I've seen have woodgrain. Ive seen SF auto's with dull finish,polished fi.nish, and woodgrain finish, Have several 65 consoles like these
As far as i have seen, there were not supposed to be any SF or L's with ribbed console, at least for 65.
These were Dodge console's. I've never seen a Dodge with woodgrain. Have seen Monaco and Polara's with smoothe finish, also ribbed.
I'm like you, there had to have been some kind of guidance on which to use and where.
The Hamtrack site dealer data options would be a good place to look.
Would take a lot of time!
Keep in touch
Tom
 
I was finally able to spend some time working on the 300 today. I took the front backing plates off and cleaned everything up. I replaced the wheel cylinders, shoes,brake hoses,brake lines and hardware kits. Repacked the wheel bearings and replaced the shocks. Now I can start on the rear. I'm going over to Greensburg tomorrow to pick up the gas tank. They got it all sealed up and coated on the inside and out.
 
A 300L auto console looks just like mine (standard '65 300) with the addition of the L badge on the console door. The top plate is brushed aluminum; different from the swirled pattern on the dash appliqué.





 
A 300L auto console looks just like mine (standard '65 300) with the addition of the L badge on the console door.





A 300L auto console looks just like mine (standard '65 300) with the addition of the L badge on the console door. The top plate is brushed aluminum; different from the swirled pattern on the dash appliqué.





A 300L auto console looks just like mine (standard '65 300) with the addition of the L badge on the console door. The top plate is brushed aluminum; different from the swirled pattern on the dash appliqué

Beautiful console! restored? console body new from ABC? The only issue Bob had repopping these consoles and lids was he didn't have the 2 holes for L emblem to mount to the lid. Not a problem, though, just drill andcover with emblem.
There was a discussion on L console finishes in 300 club INTL. Also issue with different swirl pattern with dash repops too. They did repop L dash applique to update/renew. They are not that expensive and made stronger, but missing tabs to mount. I think you must use adhesive. My info is old though. I asked to repop J K L cloisenne emblems but was told too expensive! too bad. They are needed! I sold several! stupid me! I have 2 good J emblems i'd trade for some L emblems





 
From tedenkler:
"Beautiful console! restored? console body new from ABC? The only issue Bob had repopping these consoles and lids was he didn't have the 2 holes for L emblem to mount to the lid. Not a problem, though, just drill andcover with emblem.
There was a discussion on L console finishes in 300 club INTL. Also issue with different swirl pattern with dash repops too. They did repop L dash applique to update/renew. They are not that expensive and made stronger, but missing tabs to mount. I think you must use adhesive. My info is old though. I asked to repop J K L cloisenne emblems but was told too expensive! too bad. They are needed! I sold several! stupid me! I have 2 good J emblems i'd trade for some L emblems"

Just so it's easier to read. :)
VERY nice console BTW.
 
From tedenkler:
"Beautiful console! restored? console body new from ABC? The only issue Bob had repopping these consoles and lids was he didn't have the 2 holes for L emblem to mount to the lid. Not a problem, though, just drill andcover with emblem.
There was a discussion on L console finishes in 300 club INTL. Also issue with different swirl pattern with dash repops too. They did repop L dash applique to update/renew. They are not that expensive and made stronger, but missing tabs to mount. I think you must use adhesive. My info is old though. I asked to repop J K L cloisenne emblems but was told too expensive! too bad. They are needed! I sold several! stupid me! I have 2 good J emblems i'd trade for some L emblems"

Just so it's easier to read. :)
VERY nice console BTW.
sorry i'm a clutz. i have 1 finger when it comes to typing. unfortunately that one finger is 4 inches wide on a keyboard
 
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