Wollfen's 1971 Sport Fury GT !

Well I tinkered more on the GT and fitted a few things, I put an original AM/FM thumbwheel radio back into the car as well as an original antenna too. And it works! There is now a brand new heater control valve in the car too, the old one while still having a good vacuum can on it still leaked for some reason. Once the car was topped off with new coolant I took it for a drive and watched the temperature again The car still overheats according to the gauge, I also removed the thermostat altogether as well earlier which sowed down the speed by which it overheats. Now that the system doesn't have a leak yes i can tell the car overheats still on the road, but it takes a long time to get u there. Considering the system is all new(I double checked it anyway) and knowing I had cleaned out the block before fitting new freeze plugs I figure the only thing it can be in the radiator which I fitted after giving it a visual inspection. I'm thinking there may be sediment in it, it isn't a new radiator so I am going to super flush the system and then see how it goes. I hope this works out, I do still want to make the Carlisle show.


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I'm so glad you checked the thermostat. . . But it sounds like you need to re-core that radiator. There is still time. . .
 
Gary, if you have tried this sorry for the repeat, have you tried bypassing the heater core? I had an older Ram pick up that wouldn't stop overheating no mater what. Bypassed the heater and that solved the mystery. Just a thought
 
since the thermostat is out... give a close look at the kind of flow you have in there radiator... I have seen weak water pumps due to impeller corrosion and housing damage. You may be able to feel a cool spot in the core of the radiator if it's clogged...

Good luck.
 
Gary, if you have tried this sorry for the repeat, have you tried bypassing the heater core? I had an older Ram pick up that wouldn't stop overheating no mater what. Bypassed the heater and that solved the mystery. Just a thought
Haven't bypassed the heater core no, but then again when I turned it on it blew hot, this leads me to believe it is flowing okay and that having the heater on as well should have a small affect on temperature too, that is helping to make it a bit cooler. Either way, having the heater on or off had no affect. If flushing the radiator has no affect then blocking the heater core will be attempted.
 
I'm so glad you checked the thermostat. . . But it sounds like you need to re-core that radiator. There is still time. . .
Recoring only applies if the radiator fins are falling out and or the thing leaks too. None of this is happening, it i a good solid core. The only other reason you may replace the core is sludge has built up setting like concrete inside and can't be removed.
 
since the thermostat is out... give a close look at the kind of flow you have in there radiator... I have seen weak water pumps due to impeller corrosion and housing damage. You may be able to feel a cool spot in the core of the radiator if it's clogged...

Good luck.
I have been checking the flow and it is running through at what I consider a reasonable speed. Since the water pump and related accessories are all new and have checked out for operation since then, I can pretty much cross that off my list. And yes, the core is my focus re clogging. The flush will tell me if there is crud build up of any kind, i will catch the outflow and inspect it.
 
Recoring only applies if the radiator fins are falling out and or the thing leaks too. None of this is happening, it i a good solid core. The only other reason you may replace the core is sludge has built up setting like concrete inside and can't be removed.
Do you have a good radiator shop you use? They can remove the tanks and rod out the core.
 
Are you sure the gauge and the temp sensor is showing correct. With a IR temp sensor you can check the temp in different places on the system. I had a simular problem in my boat with overheating, I bought an IR temp sensor and and measured on hoses and found out that the sensor was the problem.
 
X3 for checking to see how hot it's getting with infra red temp sensor. I bought mine at Home Depot.
 
[QUOTE="Wollfen, post: 373007, member: 1352". . .. The only other reason you may replace the core is sludge has built up setting like concrete inside and can't be removed.[/QUOTE]

BINGO!
 
Is the bottom hose possibly collapsing as the temp /flow grows causing it to stop flowing or flowing efficiently?

Is there a spring in the lower hose to prevent it collapsing?

Sorry if already covered and dissmissed
 
Is the bottom hose possibly collapsing as the temp /flow grows causing it to stop flowing or flowing efficiently?

Is there a spring in the lower hose to prevent it collapsing?

Sorry if already covered and dissmissed
That's a thought, sometimes it's the simplest things one forgets to check for, I will look into it.
 
Are you sure the gauge and the temp sensor is showing correct. With a IR temp sensor you can check the temp in different places on the system. I had a simular problem in my boat with overheating, I bought an IR temp sensor and and measured on hoses and found out that the sensor was the problem.
X3 for checking to see how hot it's getting with infra red temp sensor. I bought mine at Home Depot.
I can hear it boiling.
 
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