Front end rebuild - complete.

commando1

Old Man with a Hat
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Damn it, there better not be a next time! LOL!
I'm always saying that for everything. NOTHING is normal in our cars. Nothing!

And, that's what I'm saying about my current project, a complete front end rebuild.
I'm researching all the best parts at the best prices now but I'm afraid I'm going to really regret doing it myself when it comes time to do the dirty deed.
I've never disassembled an U&L control arm hooked to a torsion bar in my life. And I don't want it to be off the road for six months...:BangHead:
 
Are you going to completely remove the lower control arm from the sub frame? If so, It's not that bad as long as the torsion bars aren't stubborn and slide out.
 
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I plan on doing a complete suspension and steering rebuild next year.
 
As a starting point.....I've used these kits with 2 other project cars previously with great results. Still need a few items like the pitman and idler arms.

http://www.p-s-t.com/s.nl/it.A/id.516/.f?sc=12

media.nl
 
I just went through the entire front end rebuild this winter, my torsion bars slide right out. Pushed out the old bushings and pushing in all new ones myself. I got my stuff from PST, about the only complete kit I could find for my car. Did the alignment myself with strings and a degree gauge, it runs straight as an arrow. The hardest part was cranking on the torsion bolts to try and get the front end level because it would keep settled everyfew days until broke in. If motivated your looking at 2 full weekends.
 
Hey commando... I just finished the complete front end rebuild on my 73 B body (very similar to the larger C bodies of the day). Started as a replacement of the k frame mounting bushings but got carried away.... Mine took two full weekends with a few nights of cleaning and painting in between. First advice is get all the parts and tools before starting. I was able to source moog parts for all my needs including sway bars, drag links and bumpers

Good luck and post us your progress.

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Here is my lay out table before assembly

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Upper A arms were a challenge... Ended up fabricating a sleeve out of pipe stock for pressing in the bushings.

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Upper ball joints also proved a challenge getting them to torque up to spec. Previous repairs had stripped out the threads. Ended up brazing in some bronze and then cutting the threads with one of the old ball joints... Worked out real well and tight.

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You may want to also look at you brake lines and shocks. Mine were shot... And again.... The new ones look and work so much better.

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Nice car lift 73t&c. That would have saved me from laying on my back all winter.
 
Great stuff guys. I have to do that on the Imp soon...before Carlisle!
 
I dread doing front end stuff, both of mine need it done. I have done enough of these in my day and it should get easier, but it doesnt
 
Are you going to completely remove the lower control arm from the sub frame? If so, It's not that bad as long as the torsion bars aren't stubborn and slide out.

If that's what it takes to put in a new bushing - yes.

< Sent from my tablet >
 
Hey commando... I just finished the complete front end rebuild on my 73 B body (very similar to the larger C bodies of the day). Started as a replacement of the k frame mounting bushings but got carried away.... Mine took two full weekends with a few nights of cleaning and painting in between. First advice is get all the parts and tools before starting. I was able to source moog parts for all my needs including sway bars, drag links and bumpers

Good luck and post us your progress.

<img src="http://www.forcbodiesonly.com/mopar-forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=10926"/>
Here is my lay out table before assembly

<img src="http://www.forcbodiesonly.com/mopar-forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=10927"/>
Upper A arms were a challenge... Ended up fabricating a sleeve out of pipe stock for pressing in the bushings.

<img src="http://www.forcbodiesonly.com/mopar-forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=10928"/>
Upper ball joints also proved a challenge getting them to torque up to spec. Previous repairs had stripped out the threads. Ended up brazing in some bronze and then cutting the threads with one of the old ball joints... Worked out real well and tight.

<img src="http://www.forcbodiesonly.com/mopar-forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=10929"/>

You may want to also look at you brake lines and shocks. Mine were shot... And again.... The new ones look and work so much better.

Im not starting until I have every last part layed out on the bench.
New brake lines is a no-brainer.
Got the new shocks already.

< Sent from my tablet >
 
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What brand shocks did you go with?

Just replacing the front shocks on my NYB made a hell of a difference. Of course the old ones were totally shot.
 
I dread doing front end stuff, both of mine need it done. I have done enough of these in my day and it should get easier, but it doesnt
Last time for me was around '69 putting in new kingpins in a Rambler. The damn spring compressor let go and nearly took my bosses head off. He then proceeded taking mine off.

If it wasn't for the lift, I wouldn't dream of doing it. But I don't trust anyone around here enough to think it can be done right.

< Sent from my tablet >
 
What brand shocks did you go with?

Just replacing the front shocks on my NYB made a hell of a difference. Of course the old ones were totally shot.

I don't remember. AZ OEM HD replacement I think.
Yah, the change was dramatic. It still had its shocks from the factory.


FWIW - My wife, as always, asked how much is THIS going to cost. My answer was, as always, cheaper than a new car.
The conversation ended right there. As always....

< Sent from my tablet >
 
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The front shocks on my NYB had an OE shock on one side and the other was Big A Auto Parts. I believe Big A went into bankruptcy in the late 90's was sold to Carquest. Both shocks didn't have any fluid in them what so ever. Those KYB Gas-A-Just really made a huge difference.
 
I couldn't believe it myself. The only explanation may be that Pennsylvania requires annual mechanical inspections (not sure if they did back in the day) and maybe one was leaking. Shady shops are all over the place. I always replace in pairs.
 
I've got new shocks for all 4 corners and I need to order all my parts including rear leafs. The more I look at them the more I am convinced they can't be saved or rearched, they're just going to tell me they don't have enough spring left in them.
 
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