1965 Dodge Monaco Update

[Little Pete]

Finally after many up's and down's over the last year or so I was able to get the car on the road this past fall. I know many of you had asked me about updates on the car the last few months. Sorry for not being able to get any pictures up until now.

Overall a good experience. Everything is working well. Just a few minor problems to rectify.

1. Temperature Gauge: Just not completely accurate or trustworthy. I put a 180 thermostat in the car and the gauge does not read accurate. Sometimes it's in the middle or runs, high and then bottoms out. I have a new sensor, just need to change it. I did hit the motor many times with my laser heat gun and it is showing 180 front and back of the motor. Thinking I will replace the water pump this spring as well. I have a new Auto Gauge triple pod I'm thinking of maybe installing? Heater does work nicely though and heater core doesn't leak.

2. Need to change the transmission filter and put on a new pan gasket.

3. Need to redo the brakes this spring as well. Going to order all new lines from Inline Tube. I have everything else, just need time.

4. Thinking about getting some white walls. I have the original hub caps, which are in perfect condition. Also, the car had fender skirts. Need to clean them up, some surface rust etc to fix.

5. Would like to get the motor out someday and paint the firewall.

Overall good experience. Some parts were hard to find throughout the process, but happy to report I have logged 500 miles since September without any significant issues.

Very happy overall and proud of the car.

83,000 documented miles. Very little rust.

I have a lot of resources and leads I tracked down over the last year or so, if anyone needs any hard to find parts.

 

[traintech55]

Nice looking car, one recommendation, when you replace the brake lines, convert it to the 1967 and newer dual braking system. This is actually easy if you are changing all the lines, and the only additional part you need to change is the master cylinder.

 

[Imperialist67]

What a nice Monaco, sure like that engine compartment.

 

[Davea Lux]

Nice looking car. Try the new temp sensor first. The erratic temp gauge might also be a power issue to the instrument cluster, although this will usually result in erratic readings on all of the gauges powered by the cluster regulator. You might want to hook a voltmeter to the hot lug on the gauge and see if you have a steady voltage reading.

Dave

 

[68 4spd Fury]

Very nice car! Great job done.

 

[Little Pete]

Nice looking car, one recommendation, when you replace the brake lines, convert it to the 1967 and newer dual braking system. This is actually easy if you are changing all the lines, and the only additional part you need to change is the master cylinder.

Thanks for the advice on the dual m/c.
Is the distribution block different on the fwd drivers frame for a dual m/c setup?

Also, have given this alot of thought. I like originality too but safety is a big topic as well.

 

[Little Pete]

What a nice Monaco, sure like that engine compartment.

Thank You. Hope to clean up the firewall this spring. Just hard to touch up with the engine in the way.

 

[Little Pete]

Nice looking car. Try the new temp sensor first. The erratic temp gauge might also be a power issue to the instrument cluster, although this will usually result in erratic readings on all of the gauges powered by the cluster regulator. You might want to hook a voltmeter to the hot lug on the gauge and see if you have a steady voltage reading.

Dave

Thanks Dave! Great advice as always. I honestly think part of the problem is the sensor terminal. That nail head terminal is painful. Hard to mess with under the AC pump also.

 

[Little Pete]

Very nice car! Great job done.

Thank You.

 

[68 4spd Fury]

Thanks for the advice on the dual m/c.
Is the distribution block different on the fwd drivers frame for a dual m/c setup?

Also, have given this alot of thought. I like originality too but safety is a big topic as well.

Yes, and different again if you're going to discs, (if that's in the plan).

 

[Little Pete]

Yes, and different again if you're going to discs, (if that's in the plan).

Not sure yet. I did tackle the rears already. The brake lines from the differential block out to rear wheel cylinders were a bit painful. Rusted tight. Luckily the distribution block was brass. That helped. Just want all new manufactured lines. Looking into Inline Tubes. I used them for gas lines and they were perfectly fitted.

 

[Imperialist67]

Thanks for the advice on the dual m/c.
Is the distribution block different on the fwd drivers frame for a dual m/c setup?

Also, have given this alot of thought. I like originality too but safety is a big topic as well.

The dual circuit master cylinder is the most important upgrade (safety-wise) to make, and the difference from one brake unit to another is NOT a major change in the looks department..........

 

[Little Pete]

The dual circuit master cylinder is the most important upgrade (safety-wise) to make, and the difference from one brake unit to another is NOT a major change in the looks department..........

100% agreed!

 

[Davea Lux]

Thanks for the advice on the dual m/c.
Is the distribution block different on the fwd drivers frame for a dual m/c setup?

Also, have given this alot of thought. I like originality too but safety is a big topic as well.

The distribution block is different because the split brake systems have an independent fluid pathway to the front and rear brakes. There is a switch inside the block to trigger the "Brake Warning" light. This is tripped by a pressure differential between the front and rear brakes. If you plan to install the brake warning light, it can be wired into the circuit for the park brake indicator. As noted above, if you are converting to discs, the distribution block is different and you will also need to install a portioning valve to rebalance the brake system. Chrysler products, starting on most models in 1966, used a metering valve on factory equipped cars with disc brakes that was mounted on the frame rail at the left/right split at the cross member. Most modern disc brake conversions incorporate a combination brake warning/portioning valve that is adjustable for balancing purposes.

Dave

 

[Little Pete]

The distribution block is different because the split brake systems have an independent fluid pathway to the front and rear brakes. There is a switch inside the block to trigger the "Brake Warning" light. This is tripped by a pressure differential between the front and rear brakes. If you plan to install the brake warning light, it can be wired into the circuit for the park brake indicator. As noted above, if you are converting to discs, the distribution block is different and you will also need to install a portioning valve to rebalance the brake system. Chrysler products, starting in 1966, used a metering valve on factory equipped cars with disc brakes that was mounted on the frame rail at the left/right split at the cross member. Most modern disc brake conversions incorporate a combination brake warning/portioning valve that is adjustable for balancing purposes.

Dave

Thanks Dave. That is some wonderful information. Just don't know if I would get in over my head converting to disc brakes? Finding the correct parts to make everything work properly. I'm sure there is a year Chrysler I could get everything off of parts wise. I'm guessing 67 and up or later? Probably a ton of expensive aftermarket kits available too as well?

 

[Little Pete]

Also @Davea Lux
I've had alot of people comment about the bumper ettes on this car. Guess that's the correct term or bumper pushers. Are these an original common option or rare? Haven't seen many other 65's that have those.

The hardest thing also I've not located is the bumper rubber ends. My bumpers were rechromed once and the rubber fillers weren't reinstalled.

 

[Davea Lux]

Thanks Dave. That is some wonderful information. Just don't know if I would get in over my head converting to disc brakes? Finding the correct parts to make everything work properly. I'm sure there is a year Chrysler I could get everything off of parts wise. I'm guessing 67 and up or later? Probably a ton of expensive aftermarket kits available too as well?

The most common disc conversion would be to use the 68-71 spindles, rotors and calipers with a Bendix dual diaphragm booster. If you are planning to use the car mostly for pleasure driving, properly maintained drum brakes are probably going to be adequate. For trailer towing, high performance driving or operation around really hilly terrain, the disc conversion would be nice to have. It is a big job to convert to disc brakes and it is a job that is not for the faint of heart. As you noted after market conversions are offered by a variety of suppliers that vary significantly in both quality and price, so if you go that route, do your homework.

Dave

 

[Polara_500]

The bumper guards were optional.

As for the ends - are you talking about the gap fillers on the tops?

 

[Little Pete]

The most common disc conversion would be to use the 68-71 spindles, rotors and calipers with a Bendix dual diaphragm booster. If you are planning to use the car mostly for pleasure driving, properly maintained drum brakes are probably going to be adequate. For trailer towing, high performance driving or operation around really hilly terrain, the disc conversion would be nice to have. It is a big job to convert to disc brakes and it is a job that is not for the faint of heart. As you noted after market conversions are offered by a variety of suppliers that vary significantly in both quality and price, so if you go that route, do your homework.

Dave

Much appreciated Dave as always. Think I'd prefer to stick with drums honestly. I have good luck with drum brakes in general. As you stated, I am that faint of heart type changing over completely to discs. If I ever did, I'd pay someone else to do it or buy the aftermarket kit.

 

[Davea Lux]

As noted by Polara 500, the rubber bumper guards were an option on these cars. If they are factory installed, they will probably be listed on the build sheet. There was also a dealer installer bumper protection package that had a very similar appearance. I do not know of any one currently reproducing either type.

Dave