1966 Chrysler 300 - steering wheel shaft wobbles

[thpa]

Hi guys,
i have a Chrysler 300 1966 and i recently fixed the horn ... so i had to pull down the steering wheel.

Since that i noticed that my steering wheel wobbles and found out that the shaft is not fixed (anymore).

I found some plans here where there is a snap ring mentioned but there was none the time i remove the steering wheel.
Anyone an idea what happed?

I have the tilt and telescopic steering.

 

[CBODY67]

I believe the parts book illustration (exploded view) is for a standard column, not the Tilt-A-Scope column.

There are some bearings/bushings which keep the shafts where they need to be. Possibly they have some wear in them? Hopefully you found the "dead spline" where the steering wheel slides onto the shaft?

IF there are some screw/bolt heads you can see that attach the inner housing to the column structure, do ensure they are all tight.

Just some thoughts,
CBODY67

 

[thpa]

I think you are right, the illustration is not for the tilt column.

At the moment i think that the two parts (which are plugged into each other) slipped out of the steering column bearing insulator.

 

[Ross Wooldridge]

 

[Ross Wooldridge]

When you say "the shaft is not fixed any more", does that mean the wheel won't lock in place and will telescope whether it's locked or not?

 

[thpa]

Ok ... thx that helps a lot.

Sorry if i expressed myself a bit unclear ... English isn't my mother tongue.

Isn't fixed anymore means that the shaft can be moved to all directions and if i mount the steering wheel ... it rubs when steering.

 

[Ross Wooldridge]

OK, thank you. This is what I thought, but I needed to check before I continue...

There is supposed to be a very large snap ring (looks like a very thick letter C) that holds the shaft in place - it sits in a molded special plastic "carrier" that places it in the right orientation, and both items are located above the turn signal assembly (actuator). I don't see those two pieces in your photograph. There is a groove machined into the shaft where the clip goes over the shaft. In your photo I can just see the edge of it.

If you look in the exploded diagram I posted, you'll see the column cover, an O ring bumper, then the C clip snap ring, the carrier then the turn signal actuator.

The snap ring and the carrier are meant to be spring loaded - they sit in place on a large spring of a very heavy design, The spring runs down the shaft inside of the turn signal actuator. You'll see it in the diagram to the right of the turn signal actuator. The spring sits against a seat, which in turns sits against the upper bearing race.

One typically needs a special tool that allows you to depress the carrier and spring and remove the snap ring. If you try without the tool one risks breaking the carrier, but sometimes one can get it out. The same tool is needed to reinstall the c clip after removal. If you find that those items were not reinstalled, but you still have them, I can show you how to make a simple tool that will do the job and allow you to reinstall the clip and carrier.

If those two items (and possibly the spring) are missing, the shaft will wobble all over the place.

 

[thpa]

Ok ... that sounds exactly like my problem.

I have all the mentioned parts but i can't push the spring far enough to fix the plastic part with the big c.

 

[Ross Wooldridge]

OK, I will describe my tool in another post soon.

I am glad you have the required parts.

Stand by.

 

[Ross Wooldridge]

2-5 Euros cost - Buy a 2" plastic plumbing pipe cap and screw-on access cover.

Cut away about 1.5" from the side of the cap - just enough to permit the C clip to pass through.

Drill a 1 cm hole in the centre of the access cover's square wrench boss.

Find a long bolt with a couple of nuts that is the same pitch as the steering wheel telescoping adjuster bolt (the one with all the holes around the lip).

Thread a nut onto the bolt, then insert the nut through the top of the access cap. Assemble the cap and access cover and adjust the nut so that there are just enough threads at the bottom to start engaging in the steering shaft's threads.

Place the assembly over the carrier, and align the opening in the cap with the carrier's molded relief for the C clip.

Start tightening the bolt and it should start depressing the carrier and spring. Slide the C clip in place when the bottom of notch in the steering shaft is visible - then back off the bolt and there you have it!

I hope this helps.

 

[fury fan]

Awesome tip and perfect timing, Ross. I salute you!

 

[Ross Wooldridge]

Glad to help. That in part is what this forum is for!

I hope the OP has had success too.

 

[thethee]

Sourcing non metric bolts can be tricky on this side of the pond, or even finding which exact thread you need

 

[thpa]

Glad to help. That in part is what this forum is for!

I hope the OP has had success too.

I will tell soon if all work out ... I have already bought most of the parts.

The thread is a 5/16", not easy to find in Austria ... but Amazon can help me out .

 

[Ross Wooldridge]

5/16th is the shaft diameter, and how many threads per inch is just as important.

 

[Big_John]

5/16th is the shaft diameter, and how many threads per inch is just as important.

One of the better things you can buy to have in your toolbox is a thread pitch gauge. This will give you threads per inch for SAE threads and pitch for metric threads. Pitch is the amount the thread moves in one revolution.

Amazon product ASIN B07FVSH38T

 

[thpa]

Ok guys ... couldn't get the right threads per inch to build the right tool.

So i used two height adjustment screws from amazon (Amazon product ASIN B07BG8KJ49)

The most important thing is that the screws are screwed in at the same time

 

[Ross Wooldridge]

That's good thinking!