1972 Polara 4 door sedan

It looks really good in there. The blue wagon I had shipped from Utah was suprisingly full of leaves broken down into basically mulch. Was happy to see that after some vacuuming and flushing out, that it also is solid. Make sure the drains are clear too.
 
It looks really good in there. The blue wagon I had shipped from Utah was suprisingly full of leaves broken down into basically mulch. Was happy to see that after some vacuuming and flushing out, that it also is solid. Make sure the drains are clear too.
I’ve seen them look so bad in there that it was a deal breaker or if you already own it, a total reassessment of what to do with the car.
I’m still amazed at how much stuff can make it’s way down in there. Then again, it’s a 46 year accumulation!
 
A little body work. Don’t expect to be impressed here.

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Much warping in my patch welding. I’m prone to that. I get a little carried away most times. I’ll post some pics after I correct the situation or fill it with bondo. Remember, it’s a driver, folks!
 
Used to do a lot of welding on earthmoving equipment, it happens. Like you said it probably will not be going for points at a judged event. Did you get a guesstimate for the turnaround on your 318?
 
Used to do a lot of welding on earthmoving equipment, it happens. Like you said it probably will not be going for points at a judged event. Did you get a guesstimate for the turnaround on your 318?
Easy now! It’s a 360! I find out in a few days on the engine...
 
This sloppy application of seam sealer and an apparent melt down of the voltage regulator was getting on my nerves. Also seen here is a Range Rover steering coupling retrofit.
 
This sloppy application of seam sealer and an apparent melt down of the voltage regulator was getting on my nerves. Also seen here is a Range Rover steering coupling retrofit.

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Did the thickness of that bushing make much difference for your reassembly?
 
Not done but, looking better. On a totally unrelated subject, Advance Auto has Bondo on sale for $18.90 a gallon. Not that I’d ever have a need for it.

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Did the thickness of that bushing make much difference for your reassembly?
It was barely thicker. Not enough to make any issues at all. I opted to leave the metal shield off and will fashion another one that doesn’t go on the column itself when I get the headers installed.
 
One of the few tech tips I will offer is this one. I’ve used these Weiand intakes before. They claim you can put a square or spread bore either one on them but if you put a square bore on it without this plate you might get a leak. No need for a big, thick adapter plate on this application. Just this thin plate with a thin gasket on each side.

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Did a little restoration on the taillight lenses today. The paint was faded so I cleaned them up and repainted them with wheel paint. It took some time to mask them but it wasn’t too bad. I know there is supposed to be what I assume to be a pot metal trim piece that goes in the center. Both were missing on these so I put a dab of JB weld in the small holes to seal them and did without. Far from perfect but good enough for the girls I go out with!

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I just got off the phone with the machine shop. The block and crank are good cores. An over bore will be necessary, probably .030-.040 ...
I’m gonna use Keith Black hyperutectic (not sure of the spelling) KB107 pistons and a Standard oil pump. Probably going with a Crane cams XE 262 cam.
I’ll be using J heads and a Weiand 2p 180 intake with a Edelbrock 650.
I’m looking for a modest boost in power as compared to stock and reliability. Feel free to chime in with suggestions and experiences.
 
Had some pickle juice mixed up at my local paint supplier. I shot some down in the cowl to see how is matches up. It’s a little dark or the original paint is faded. I’ll try it on the lower quarter that I worked on and see how it does.
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It's really coming along Marty! I need to get into high gear when the weather breaks fully! Oh and when my donor shell shows up at somepoint...hopefully this month.
 
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