So I just had a chance to take a look at the setup quickly and currently the fan is about 6-7 inches away from the radiator. It wasn't working well at 3-4 inches away I can't imagine this is good. I also imagine finding a shroud that deep is not going to be easy. Any thoughts/advice?
68 Fury 3 questions
- Thread starter 68furyIII
- Start date
How deep was that spacer you had originally ? You will likely need to put it back.
I kept the spacer and stock fan on for now and it is probably 3-4 inches ballpark. The clutch fan/clutch didn't have the proper bolts to be installed with the radiator so I left the stock fan on. And with the spacer it is still 6-7 inches from the radiator.
greasemonkeyman
Well-Known Member
You will probably need to find a longer spacer.
commando1
Old Man with a Hat
I wouldn't do it....
The whole system is messed up.
I'd go back to square one and stop piece mealing remedies.
The whole system is messed up.
I'd go back to square one and stop piece mealing remedies.
Can you post a picture of the current set-up and show us the distance from the fan to the rad core ? Something is certainly amiss here.
The new radiator doesn't have the extended brackets to bolt to the car so it sits more flush with the opening which is farther away from the engine fan. When I get back home I can post a few pictures but that won't be for a couple days probably, sadly.
BillGrissom
Active Member
Sorry, coming in late and didn't read all 13 pages. If no dash gages work, a bad ground to the dash cluster is a strong suspect. In most, it gets grounded thru the mounting points. Especially true if the bulbs don't light too. The speedometer is mechanical and the ammeter is two isolated wires (ALT & BAT) so those would still work.
Little update: Had my father do that initial measuring when I wasn't home and he took the wrong measurement. It is 3 1/2 inches from the radiator to the center of the fan blades, with the original fan and extender still on.
Also I got the thermostat housing off however the bolt is still too deep to get with any pliers so going to try and find an extraction kit at the local parts store as well as two new bolts.
Also I got the thermostat housing off however the bolt is still too deep to get with any pliers so going to try and find an extraction kit at the local parts store as well as two new bolts.
commando1
Old Man with a Hat
Predrill with a COBALT drill bit first. Cobalt. Not cobalt coated or titanium coated. Cobalt. 
Careful use of a punch and hammer may get the bolt to back out. Otherwise you're likely in the market for an easy-out.
Once you get the car back together and dialed in, it'll be interesting to see if you still have an overheating problem. Remember that this car was likely built with a 180° thermostat. Putting a 192° or 195° in it will mean the gauge is showing overheating.
Something I just remembered ... I don't know about 68 Fury's but early 68 B bodies were built with an inaccurate temperature gauge face meaning the acceptable temperature range was off on early gauges but off hand I can't recall in which direction. If this is an early Fury might also have an incorrectly printed gauge. What I mean by this is the acceptable temperature was incorrectly displayed on the face.
Certainly not saying this didn't happen, but I just checked the 1968 CP TSBs. There are no bulletins at all from section 7 and none of the bulletins from 8 reference anything about the temperature gauge.
Was there any sort of "fix" for this? Different sending unit? Sticking a resistor in the wiring somewhere?
Thanks for the heads up. Definitely important to me as the main problem with this car is overheating as of now.
And I thought they were built with 195 degree thermostats stock? Right now there is a 180 degree in there.
Purchased an easy out at my local parts store, didn't work. I think I'm going to have to get a new intake manifold.
And I thought they were built with 195 degree thermostats stock? Right now there is a 180 degree in there.
Purchased an easy out at my local parts store, didn't work. I think I'm going to have to get a new intake manifold.
I have no idea Mccabe. I think they fixed the problem by correcting the gauge face going forward. I don't know if there was a recall or retrofit action.
I'm not even sure it's not something that was discovered later by the aftermarket but, and I'm only going from my weak memory it seemed like a late / early thing and affected both rallye and non-rallye gauges and that Ma was the one figured it out. Can't swear to it.
Here's a kit to replace your gauge faces with the correct and incorrect non-rallye silk screen
Incidentally and I'm sure about this one. In early 68 B bodies there are 4 diff type of speedos for the non rallye standard speedometers. 2 for 150 MPH and 2 for the 120. It was a readability issue.
Early Long 5 mph tics early on and shorter 5 mph tics later on to help the driver differentiate the speed better on 120 speedo
Early 150 speedo's went from 10 to 150 with the zero and later 68 went from 1 to 15 across the face
Here's both styles for the rallye gauges .. note the temp gauges
65sporty
Old Man with a Hat
Did you drill the bolt all the way through? I didn't go back through the thread but you broke off one of the thermostat bolts right? If the easy out won't work drill the bolt out and chase the threads with a tap or drill over size and use a heli-coil. best of luck
I have no idea Mccabe. I think they fixed the problem by correcting the gauge face going forward. I don't know if there was a recall or retrofit action.
I'm not even sure it's not something that was discovered later by the aftermarket but, and I'm only going from my weak memory it seemed like a late / early thing and affected both rallye and non-rallye gauges and that Ma was the one figured it out. Can't swear to it.
Here's a kit to replace your gauge faces with the correct and incorrect non-rallye silk screen
Incidentally and I'm sure about this one. In early 68 B bodies there are 4 diff type of speedos for the non rallye standard speedometers. 2 for 150 MPH and 2 for the 120. It was a readability issue.
Early Long 5 mph tics early on and shorter 5 mph tics later on to help the driver differentiate the speed better on 120 speedo
Early 150 speedo's went from 10 to 150 with the zero and later 68 went from 1 to 15 across the face
Here's both styles for the rallye gauges .. note the temp gauges
Thanks for the great tutorial on this. I learn something new here just about every day. Changing the graphics on the temp gauges is so obvious a fix, I completely skipped over the notion that Chrysler would do this. But it's most certainly the least expensive "fix" for the problem, and $$$ is and always has been the primary motivator.
Initially checked '67 CP TSB index and found nothing, but in checking the '67 Dodge TSB index, there are 3 that refer to the gauges. D67-8-5, D67-8-8 and D67-8-8A. I will go and have a look at them to see if this issue is what the cover.
commando1
Old Man with a Hat
That is amazing stuff. The knowledge here continues to blow me away.
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