70 Newport Rear springs

The beam type is the most rugged and more accurate than the clicker type.

Typical accuracies are +/- 3% for beam type, +/- 4% CW +/- 6% CCW (upper 80% of scale) for Click type and +/- 2% for dial type.

The dial type are the most fragile and breaking loose bolts or over stressing them will ruin the wrench.

The click type wrenches are OK, I own a couple, but you have to understand a couple things. Number one is they have to be stored adjusted to their lowest setting. Second, they need to be "exercised" before you can get the most accurate reading. In other words, go tighten a few lug nuts before you tighten your rod caps. They are the most convenient and now HF has flooded the market with cheap knock offs.
 
My wrench is not an HF special, but it certainly isn't the most expensive torque wrench money can buy either. I just can't justify buying something like that. This week was the first time I touched it since last fall. Then I used it to torque my heads and valve train and intake manifold down and what not back to factory spec. So far I've got no oil, vacuum or compression leaks, everything is staying together and running quite nicely.
 
Had a Craftsman clicky torque wrench from the 1980's. I don't think it ever worked correctly. Last year I bought a digital when I couldn't find a beam type.
 
Quite the saga this has turned into but it's great to see it getting done right.
 
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Please elaborate. What happens if you don't?

The spring is compressed when the adjustment is at the higher settings. As springs are compressed for periods of time, they tend to take a "set" or memory at that compression. The click type works with a spring pushing against the mechanism that pushes over when the torque is reached. It causes an inaccuracy, quite often at one end of the scale and what we call "non-linear".

Most of the time, if it's not been years, you can exercise it out of the wrench. Tighten all your lug nuts or something like that. Chances are a good quality wrench will go back where it should be.
 
Had a Craftsman clicky torque wrench from the 1980's. I don't think it ever worked correctly. Last year I bought a digital when I couldn't find a beam type.
When Craftsman sold a rebranded Utica-Bonney torque wrench, it was good. After that it was anyone's guess who made them for Sears.
 
What does it cost to get a large dial type torque wrench calibrated? Like 500 ft-lb large.
I don't do pricing anymore since I sold my interest in the place. Depending on a few things, it's around $35. We can do up to 600 ft/lbs easily.
 
What is really funny is watching who does the 600 ft/lb wrenches. We have that big torque cell set up so you push down on the wrench.... Even as long as the handle is, the person has to weigh enough to snap the wrench and since every newb does their share of torque wrenches, a couple of the smaller techs (like the women for example) swing off the wrenches and still can't get them to snap.
 
I have had to use a pipe on it for head bolts because hard to push horizontally at face level, yes it a two man operation to tighten head bolts one for head bolts the bolt end one pushing.
 
Very interesting sidebar.
Best example of why nothing should be off topic.


All because

:D
well i be the first in line to admit I don't have a gazzillion years of experience under my belt, but i am trying to knock this out with what little knowledge I gained of cars i've had in the past and my FSM.
 
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