AGM for me

70bigblockdodge

Old Man with a Hat
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I need a new battery for my cars, been sharing one for both cars for the last couple of months of last season. Recent Mopar Action article on AGM batteries got me thinking, but being the cheap *** I am I did not want to spend money. What I found is group 27 super gold /platinum long life blah, blah, blah battery is $130 (rounded) and their AGM is $175 so for $45 I'm taking the plunge.
They will not sweat and ooze acid all over my primo battery trays and if I ever get my Barracuda together it can go right in the trunk without a cumbersome box and venting.
I am going to get a tender for AGM battery just to see if I can push my years of service out further. Apparently they cycle well but will shorten life expectancy. I know my wife's Jeep and my sister's 300 and mini van all on their original batteries and all are 2011 MY.
Anyone using one of these? The Optima batteries are just weird looking and $$$ this one looks like a square/rectangular shape (normal).
 
What are you doing to those things to make them "sweat"?? Haven't seen that I ages, especially since the end of "tar-tops".

I think I'd rather "vent" than "not vent", for general principles . . . battery-wise. They might not spill acid when tipped, but might still need a bit of vent.

CBODY67
 
What are you doing to those things to make them "sweat"?? Haven't seen that I ages, especially since the end of "tar-tops".

I think I'd rather "vent" than "not vent", for general principles . . . battery-wise. They might not spill acid when tipped, but might still need a bit of vent.

CBODY67
Temperature change mostly colder weather (late fall) out of garage into colder morning air, or cool garage on hot summer afternoon. Just the acid on top or side from vibration leaves residue that with condensation leaks on my nice battery tray.
As far as venting. Normal flooded lead acid battery has to be in a box and vented or have specific vent for battery (think motorcycle battery or old superstock Mopar batteries with tubes) to put it in the trunk for racing. AGM battery does not require this they put them under passenger seat in new cars.
 
A more common vented situation was on Corvettes, where the battery was behind the driver's seat in a particular compartment. The other was on '90s Cadillac DeVilles/DTS and similar Buick Park Avenues (which are under the rear seat cushion). The Corvette batteries were specific as they had "vent tubes" that connected to rubber hoses which went through the floorpan to the outside air. Similar with the Cadillacs and Buicks.

The GM side terminal batteries (and other brands, too?) had issues with cracking of the terminal posts. There was a GM kit for the Cadilacs/Buicks to repair the floor pan and also had a new battery tray.

Thanks for the reply. Just hadn't seen any condensation issues on my cars, even in the winter.

CBODY67
 
In the race car it will allow just bolting it down in a tray like underhood, no specific box to mess with.
 
My battery died on in my Imp this morning on my way to the shop. It started fine at home, I stopped for an egg sandwich and nothing. It’s an Autocraft Silver from Adv Auto and I bought it New in ‘11 so I guess it doesn’t owe me anything. Probably replace it with similar.
 
My battery died on in my Imp this morning on my way to the shop. It started fine at home, I stopped for an egg sandwich and nothing. It’s an Autocraft Silver from Adv Auto and I bought it New in ‘11 so I guess it doesn’t owe me anything. Probably replace it with similar.

Buy it online and pick it up at your local AAP and save 20% off. You can even have them install it if you trust them.....
 
Buy it online and pick it up at your local AAP and save 20% off. You can even have them install it if you trust them.....
That’s my plan but I’ll put it in myself.
 
A more common vented situation was on Corvettes, where the battery was behind the driver's seat in a particular compartment. The other was on '90s Cadillac DeVilles/DTS and similar Buick Park Avenues (which are under the rear seat cushion). The Corvette batteries were specific as they had "vent tubes" that connected to rubber hoses which went through the floorpan to the outside air. Similar with the Cadillacs and Buicks.

The GM side terminal batteries (and other brands, too?) had issues with cracking of the terminal posts. There was a GM kit for the Cadilacs/Buicks to repair the floor pan and also had a new battery tray.

Thanks for the reply. Just hadn't seen any condensation issues on my cars, even in the winter.

CBODY67
I have changed lots of the GM batteries under the rear seat, but have never seen any floor pan problems
 
I need a new battery for my cars, been sharing one for both cars for the last couple of months of last season. Recent Mopar Action article on AGM batteries got me thinking, but being the cheap *** I am I did not want to spend money. What I found is group 27 super gold /platinum long life blah, blah, blah battery is $130 (rounded) and their AGM is $175 so for $45 I'm taking the plunge.
They will not sweat and ooze acid all over my primo battery trays and if I ever get my Barracuda together it can go right in the trunk without a cumbersome box and venting.
I am going to get a tender for AGM battery just to see if I can push my years of service out further. Apparently they cycle well but will shorten life expectancy. I know my wife's Jeep and my sister's 300 and mini van all on their original batteries and all are 2011 MY.
Anyone using one of these? The Optima batteries are just weird looking and $$$ this one looks like a square/rectangular shape (normal).
By my experience... don't run it through deep cycles and don't ever try fast charge it. AGM batteries are not very good at surviving either... those same things will eventually kill any battery. Getting the battery tender specific for the battery is probably going to make it work out just the way you want it to. If weight is an issue, the Optima is still lighter than most of the factory types, and there's the mounting it sideways thing... depends on what you are planning to do.
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By my experience... don't run it through deep cycles and don't ever try fast charge it. AGM batteries are not very good at surviving either... those same things will eventually kill any battery. Getting the battery tender specific for the battery is probably going to make it work out just the way you want it to. If weight is an issue, the Optima is still lighter than most of the factory types, and there's the mounting it sideways thing... depends on what you are planning to do.
View attachment 192236
I'm going to try it. I have no intention of deep cycling and will get a tender.
Weight is not a issue it's just bracket racing, plus I have removed more weight from the driver.
I like the just bolt it down in the trunk idea not worrying about spillage or vapors. As far as mounting sideways I already have the orange Charger so....
 
I recommend a Interstate Battery AGM. I switched from a Optima red top last year and the price was cheaper I think it cost me around $139.00 vs like $189.00 for a new Optima and has worked flawlessly. I use a battery disconnect switch and after sitting all winter it started the car like it was brand new. plus the Interstate battery doesn't look as out of place as the Optima. I bought it from a local dealer Ed's Generator shop in Pgh and they installed for free.
 
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