Ammeter Bypass

[kenmdale]

I am about to do the Ammeter Bypass on my 66 Sport Fury. Should the new wire with a new fusible link run from the alternator to the stud on the starter relay like The MADD bypass instructions ,or should it run directly to the battery

Cheers
Ken

 

[commando1]

Doesn't matter because the stud on the alternator and the pos. term. are directly hard wired to each other. The battery gives you the shortest route.
Short routes are good..,

I have relays on the passenger side inner fender that are wired from the alternator obviously.

 

[kenmdale]

That's what I was thinking ,but I thought I would check first. The fewer connections the better

Cheers
Ken

 

[mr. fix it]

I by-passed my ammeter with a new fusible link to the main relay block but keep in mind you still need a main feed into the interior to power the ignition and other goodies like your radio and heater.
Relays as suggested. to serve and protect

 

[Wildaugust]

You likely won't notice one more wire at the firewall or the Starter Relay, but one more wire may seem like extra clutter at the battery. Just whichever you prefer really.

 

[commando1]

Im waiting for the first guy that tries to sound important talking about voltage drop so I can smack him

 

[tbm3fan]

I dare you. Voltage drop is equal to the cross section of the whatchamajig as the juice passes along.

You do realize where I could have gone with this? Right back to the pumpkin patch...

 

[kenmdale]

I thought I would finish this thread with the bypass finished . I decided to run the wire from the alternator to the battery with a fusible link, then bypassed the firewall distribution block by running the 2-10 gauge wires through a grommet already in the firewall, and finally bypassed the ammeter.
Things went surprisingly well until I started the car and checked the alternator voltage , it read 12.45 .It turned out that I had a brainfart and didn't realise that I had looped the belt on the backside of the engine pulley, When I started it ,it was turning but not fast enough. After correcting the problem voltage is back up where it should be

Thanks to all who offered advise

Ken

 

[Ironram]

ok so I assume the original fuseable link runs from the starter relay threw bulkhead too the ammeter and then too the fuse box is this correct? I'm looking to do this upgrade thanks in advance.

 

[saylor]

damn

 

[kenmdale]

These might help

 

[Ironram]

Lol damn i was off!

 

[Stormer]

I ran mine to the battery & I could swear that's what the mad instructions suggested.

 

[crackedback]

You can run the charge line straight from the alternator to starter relay stud. Leave everything else hooked up as it is, except for the ammeter. I always take the ammeter out by splicing there.

The wires running into the car will only pull as much juice as the items inside the car require. The bypass will carry alt charge power to the starter relay. If the bypass fails, you still have the original wiring to carry energy.

 

[bluefury361]

You can run the charge line straight from the alternator to starter relay stud. Leave everything else hooked up as it is, except for the ammeter. I always take the ammeter out by splicing there.
.

If you really feel the need to by pass the amp guage. (not sure why yet), all one has to do is connect both wires to the same connector on the guage.

 

[cantflip]

If you really feel the need to by pass the amp guage. (not sure why yet), all one has to do is connect both wires to the same connector on the guage.

I could understand if you had a corroded wire and a voltage drop. Just getting a new cable alt to batt would solve charging issues. Why kill off any function of the gauge though?

Yes I know the gauge would no longer read accurately, is there another issue?

 

[crackedback]

If you really feel the need to by pass the amp guage. (not sure why yet), all one has to do is connect both wires to the same connector on the guage.

Correct, I prefer to have nothing attached to the gauge. Your approach is another way to skin the cat.

Many leave the ammeter in line. With the bulkhead wire around, the gauge becomes ineffective. I like any potential fire risk removed.

 

[cantflip]

Correct, I prefer to have nothing attached to the gauge. Your approach is another way to skin the cat.

Many leave the ammeter in line. With the bulkhead wire around, the gauge becomes ineffective. I like any potential fire risk removed.

This I can understand... thank you.

 

[patrick66]

This I can understand... thank you.

Since one of the mounting pegs on my ammeter was broken, I simply took both of the leads and ran a bolt through them, secured it with a nut, and then wrapped it in electrical tape. Cheap, and it works. That ammeter is the weak spot in the whole string, anyway. Now I have a new voltmeter under the dash. Far more reliable and accurate. No mickey-mouse rerouting of wiring and such.

 

[bluefury361]

Since one of the mounting pegs on my ammeter was broken, I simply took both of the leads and ran a bolt through them, secured it with a nut, and then wrapped it in electrical tape. Cheap, and it works. That ammeter is the weak spot in the whole string, anyway. Now I have a new voltmeter under the dash. Far more reliable and accurate. No mickey-mouse rerouting of wiring and such.

The OEM amp gauges are usually not a issue until someone messes with it. Either over tightens or does not get the connectors tight enough, or leaves out the lock washers. Over tightening stresses the circuit board. not tight enough and the connector/s may loosen and cause resistance and overheating.
Aftermarket gauges hanging off the bottom of the dash is tacky.... IMHO.