Anyone ever put a ls lsx in a c body

[300rag]

...I would still appriciate the input from forum members who have some knowledge but the neandrathals that have nothing to add you are just beathing someone elses air they could use.

Welcome to the forum

 

[65sporty]

Where to start with the hurdles? It will be like any other engine swap with so many unknowns to list. What C do you what to put it in? What do you want to use it for? The list goes on. You have to be more specific with the questions your asking.

 

[Carmine]

"I think its really funny that the biggest bashers on this board what to talk about lack of knowledge and above someones head but yet they cant answer the questions."

Don't rule out the idea that knowledgeable people just don't care about a stupid project. That's always a possibility.

...and by the way, I don't say stupid lightly. I really mean it. If you really are building a Bluesmobile, the "440 cubic inch plant that runs good on regular gas" is as much a part of the character as the broken cigarette lighter.

OR... if your point is to prove you can make a big Mopar go fast, you're accomplishing this feat with an LS motor like everybody else? Wooow! That should win you the admiration of neither Mopar people or Chevy people. May I suggest a White Lightning '71 Ford with an LS engine for an encore?

Of course if you're building this masterpiece in Cuba, or maybe a wi-fi enabled deserted island with pieces that washed ashore, I do owe you an apology.

Now that we're friends again and you're a super smart car guy, maybe you can help me figure out what's wrong with cyl #5?

 

[Kevin]

I have a 74 dodge monaco its currently set up for a bigblock.

Im looking for a good honest 600-700 hp at the crank and about equal torque. Which is what my current car has.

I want it drivable so that leads to lower adders and maybe fuel injection.

If i just wanted a 400 hp engine then i would agree it is a bad idea.
I would just get another big block fuel inject it and be done.
It would be much easier.

The ls motor meets all these specs much easier and it is the most swapped engine into all types of vehicles at this time.

So I said to myself maybe someone has done it already.So I came over here to see if anyone had and if so what knowledge I could gain.So I could decide if I wanted to or not.

Unlike some people I have no brand ive owned almost all makes and models so if the ls is the best solution then unlike some I wouldnt get butthurt.

Now if its not then I won't.

 

[saylor]

hey kevin -

thanks for coming in here and stirring up all the grumpy old men with hats.



me myself personally I hate bowtie and I try not to even sit in one if at all possible.

but my kid had an LS (5?) motor in a GTO and it was damn strong. so I get yo drift.

and those pics of that converted ^^ buick GS or whatever it was, holy crap lets see it man.

and if this is your thing to convert stuff to blown out LS motors, stick one in a mopar go for it lets see that too.

one thing though - you cant touch the exhaust note of a mopar. not ford. not chebby.

oh, and the starter. the mopar starter is the best sound in the entire world. you can hear it across the parking lot you know when a mopar starts up. fkn A. unicorns farting rainbows pop out of the clouds every time a mopar starts up.

try not to die -

- saylor

P.S. friends don't let friends drive chebbys.

 

[Carmine]

OK, i'll be serious with you for a second.

If you know your way around the electronics of an LS swap, what is left here except for the actual physical dimentions? That's obviously do-able because derby guys remove and sell big-block Mopars all the time, then swap in the much more plentiful small block Chevys.

Somebody was even nice enough to give you a link to a derby message board, where that swap is going to be much more common.

I don't think you'll have to worry about CAN bus problems with the OEM '74 Dodge body computer, which consists of a fuse box.

You know you'll need a drive shaft custom made. Your 9 1/4 rear "might" live, but is probably an open axle with a poor ratio for whatever you have in mind, so look for a swap there too.

 

[65sporty]

You could inject and turbo a BB Mopar, but if your heart is set on the LS than get ready to start fabricating everything. I have not done it and I haven't seen it done to a C-body.
Custom built engine mounts, trans mount, driveshaft, radiator hoses, p/s hoses, heater hoses, if it has a/c than a/c lines. Upgrade the electrical system. I would use the car front accessory drive or custom (holley) not the truck (too tall).
Depending on the GM trans your putting behind it you only have the option for a electric speedo, same for the shifter depends on the trans.
Than there is the engine management system. Staying injected or going carb, fuel system upgrade for injection, If going carb than MSD box for the coil packs.
All that should get you running. Good luck and if you do it we need pic's.

 

[monaco75]

Welcome from a fellow bluesmobiler!

Any pics of your Monaco? Should start a thread on her. Would love to see it!

Please though, leave the LS stuff to the bowtie boys.

 

[The Horvaths]

Jezzus, just spend $2,000 on a 440Source stroker kit (for any big block) and call it a day. Why put lipstick on a pig when you can make it faster cheaper?

 

[cantflip]

Should I buy a new laptop?

Yes, on a chain store CC with 280% interest and 45 year payoff...

I don't know what color to paint my living room.

Purple and Green... my sister did that once...

Do I stop for gas today, or wait till Monday?

Wait... maybe prices will go down a penny... what could go wrong?

In other words, this post proves that there ARE stupid questions and it should have remained an unanswered newbie post.

Too many of us are happy to answer the stupid questions... that's why we vote...
Gee I wish "who do you want in the white house?" wasn't a stupid question...

 

[67Monaco]

"who do you want in the white house?" wasn't a stupid question...

Yup, turd sandwich or giant douche... it is a stupid question.

 

[Big_John]

I have a 74 dodge monaco its currently set up for a bigblock.

Im looking for a good honest 600-700 hp at the crank and about equal torque. Which is what my current car has.

I want it drivable so that leads to lower adders and maybe fuel injection.

Now we understand what you want to do and maybe we can help. Since you say current car has met the goals you state, perhaps you might share that with us.

If i just wanted a 400 hp engine then i would agree it is a bad idea.
I would just get another big block fuel inject it and be done.
It would be much easier.

With a heavy car, you need to start looking at a lot of factors. I see this all the time where high end horse power is the goal of the mods at the sacrifice of low end torque. You need low end torque to make a big car fast.

The ls motor meets all these specs much easier and it is the most swapped engine into all types of vehicles at this time.

I agree that it might meet the short term goals. I'm not convinced that in the long term it will be the right choice, but that's just my opinion.

So I said to myself maybe someone has done it already.So I came over here to see if anyone had and if so what knowledge I could gain.So I could decide if I wanted to or not.

Sorry, no one here seems to have done that. This forum and its participants focus on restoration and some simpler mods. It's not the HAMB or something like that. Don't expect "system knowledge" of such a swap when that's not what we do.

Unlike some people I have no brand ive owned almost all makes and models so if the ls is the best solution then unlike some I wouldnt get butthurt.

Now if its not then I won't.

I don't know as this is the best solution for you. The swap would entail fabricating engine and trans mounts. That's something I can do (and have done), but it does involve measuring, welding etc. Do you have the tools to do this? Any experience? This part is the honest to god, get your hands dirty and knuckles bleeding. Usually, guys that can do this work have already had the tape measure out and making notes.

Then you have to look at the car itself. What you have is 4500 lbs of car the designers never figured on having 700 HP. You have a front stub frame mounted in 42 year old rubber that you will have to deal with. At minimum you will want to eliminate the rubber and tie it to the rear frame rails. Again, this is more fabrication.

You'll have to deal with the rear end, most likely a 9" Ford rear would be the best choice. You might want to look at the geometry of the leaf springs as again, it's not designed to put 700 HP to the ground. Again, more fabrication.

You haven't mentioned what trans you want to run. It's going to be harder (obviously) to put a manual trans in the car. I'd look a hydraulic clutch pedal etc. An automatic is going to be easier, but the newer transmission might need some trans tunnel "massaging". If you're lucky, that just means hitting it with a Monday hammer in a couple spots. It also might mean fabricating or grafting in a new floor section.

Since you are going fast, now it becomes necessary to stop... At least that stuff might be "off the shelf".

So... It's obviously not a "bolt in" swap with a lot of work and sweat to do it right. If you can handle all that... or have the coins to have someone else do it, then, yea, go for it. Personally, I wouldn't do this with a 74 Monaco... but that's me.

If you wanted to lower your sights a little and still stay with a more modern driveline, then look at some of the modern Mopar engines. This has been done before and the conversion mounts are there to buy. It's still an unusual enough swap to grab some attention at the shows and cruise nights and should run pretty well.

I think we are aching for a well documented late model Mopar into a C body swap. If you want to go that direction, I think you'll have a lot of support here. Go with the Chevy, and expect to get more of what you got. Sorry... Look at the thread about the Toyota engined Dart for an example. It would require a thick skin and you won't get any more help.

I wish you luck.

 

[commando1]

No but I will give it hell, or try anything once.

We have the tools.

 

[Poppy]

Before / After of the engine compartment. I detailed the engine compartment and then decided to hell with keeping it stock


Before / After of the Skylark

 

[cantflip]

Before / After of the engine compartment. I detailed the engine compartment and then decided to hell with keeping it stock


Before / After of the Skylark

But not a C body... and Thank You for that.

 

[Kevin]

Now we understand what you want to do and maybe we can help. Since you say current car has met the goals you state, perhaps you might share that with us.



With a heavy car, you need to start looking at a lot of factors. I see this all the time where high end horse power is the goal of the mods at the sacrifice of low end torque. You need low end torque to make a big car fast.



I agree that it might meet the short term goals. I'm not convinced that in the long term it will be the right choice, but that's just my opinion.



Sorry, no one here seems to have done that. This forum and its participants focus on restoration and some simpler mods. It's not the HAMB or something like that. Don't expect "system knowledge" of such a swap when that's not what we do.



I don't know as this is the best solution for you. The swap would entail fabricating engine and trans mounts. That's something I can do (and have done), but it does involve measuring, welding etc. Do you have the tools to do this? Any experience? This part is the honest to god, get your hands dirty and knuckles bleeding. Usually, guys that can do this work have already had the tape measure out and making notes.

Then you have to look at the car itself. What you have is 4500 lbs of car the designers never figured on having 700 HP. You have a front stub frame mounted in 42 year old rubber that you will have to deal with. At minimum you will want to eliminate the rubber and tie it to the rear frame rails. Again, this is more fabrication.

You'll have to deal with the rear end, most likely a 9" Ford rear would be the best choice. You might want to look at the geometry of the leaf springs as again, it's not designed to put 700 HP to the ground. Again, more fabrication.

You haven't mentioned what trans you want to run. It's going to be harder (obviously) to put a manual trans in the car. I'd look a hydraulic clutch pedal etc. An automatic is going to be easier, but the newer transmission might need some trans tunnel "massaging". If you're lucky, that just means hitting it with a Monday hammer in a couple spots. It also might mean fabricating or grafting in a new floor section.

Since you are going fast, now it becomes necessary to stop... At least that stuff might be "off the shelf".

So... It's obviously not a "bolt in" swap with a lot of work and sweat to do it right. If you can handle all that... or have the coins to have someone else do it, then, yea, go for it. Personally, I wouldn't do this with a 74 Monaco... but that's me.

If you wanted to lower your sights a little and still stay with a more modern driveline, then look at some of the modern Mopar engines. This has been done before and the conversion mounts are there to buy. It's still an unusual enough swap to grab some attention at the shows and cruise nights and should run pretty well.

I think we are aching for a well documented late model Mopar into a C body swap. If you want to go that direction, I think you'll have a lot of support here. Go with the Chevy, and expect to get more of what you got. Sorry... Look at the thread about the Toyota engined Dart for an example. It would require a thick skin and you won't get any more help.

I wish you luck.

I understand and once again I wasnt even saying I absolutly was going to do it.
I am also still considering the late model hemi or doing a stroker big block.
Once again was looking for info not saying come hell or high water I was going to do it.

If I was doing that then I would have had the welder fired up etc.

And you are correct I was looking for tech info. Not just you can weld in mounts and get it to run.

I want something that will work very well not just work.

Living in florida I am looking to have a/c etc.

 

[cantflip]

I understand and once again I wasnt even saying I absolutly was going to do it.
I am also still considering the late model hemi or doing a stroker big block.
Once again was looking for info not saying come hell or high water I was going to do it.

If I was doing that then I would have had the welder fired up etc.

And you are correct I was looking for tech info. Not just you can weld in mounts and get it to run.

I want something that will work very well not just work.

Living in florida I am looking to have a/c etc.

How much do you want to spend? I know a few local folks who love chevy's and might take on a side project... getting free chevy advice is a little unlikely within our demographic... some of whom may even have a dyno available for tuning. None of the folks I know are doing it full time. SCT is in Sanford and there are lots of folks with relationships who do this professionally, so you are in a good location for professional help. In my experience, there have been few in Kissimmee I would trust to fix a sandwich, but I don't play in the world you want to be in.

I personally NEVER do side work, I sometimes fix a driver for free or a donation to my favorite charity (not me). I have a business I could run a restoration through (not mine), but it would be retail and German for that to happen. Did run a towncar through there once, but it was a gift (good friend's Mom in her 70's and the realization that the early 80's car fit her better than newer ones she couldn't find the fenders on) and I worked there full time when that happened. Several Saturdays to keep markup on parts only and labor free.

Unless you just like hearing "don't do it", you may want to search the web for the great many sites that are closer to your goals.

My one piece of advice which I expect to be ignored, dial back your fantasy of 1k horses to around 400-500. Then it is very easy to make happen, $$$ but doable. Your car will not be able to use said power regardless, the stuff that does needs the electronics to let average drivers feel in control and not turn circles at every slick intersection. If you had a competition use, outside of the dyno, a C body wouldn't be a good fit and neither would this forum as a sole resource (we do have a lot of drag racers).

Either way, good luck with your Monaco...
but I hope you're not changing a pretty one.

p.s. many you have been unhappy with here are Professionals and have impressive resumes... techs, engineers... try not to pick fights with them, just because they see things differently. I know this bunch can be harsh on a fella who wants what you want, but if you were trying to make her original the help is here.

Now as usual... anyone can feel free to call BS as they see fit...

 

[Kevin]

Well folks I decided im just going to do a big block 440 in her.

The other is do able but after thinking long and hard about it decided this would be the way to go.
So I went and bought myself a 440 with a forged crank and 452 heads.
Thanks for all the replys

 

[Poppy]

Im sure that will help many untwist their panties.

What was the deciding factor?

 

[Kevin]

I decided a bluesmobile should have a 440.
I even toyed around about a stroked 400 to 499.

But decided that to stay true to the car and movie that I needed an actual 440.