Bess, my 1966 Imperial, Has Issues (but i still love her)...

Mick

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Hello everybody,

Issue 1: Bess has developed an intake leak. Any tips on gasket choice/installation?
Issue 2: She's going through condensers faster than I can get through a box of Ho-Ho's. Could this be a symptom or could I be looking at quality control issues?
 
Hello everybody,

Issue 1: Bess has developed an intake leak. Any tips on gasket choice/installation?
Issue 2: She's going through condensers faster than I can get through a box of Ho-Ho's. Could this be a symptom or could I be looking at quality control issues?

1. Remove the intake and check the existing gasket for obvious defects. If she has an OEM embossed gasket, it may have gotten some rust on the mating surface and a new gasket is all you need. Run a compression check, a bad intake valve or a broken valve spring will mimic an intake leak.

2. Check your voltage at the distributor with the key in the run position. If the voltage is normal, the ChiCom condensers have a 35 percent defect rate right out of the box.

Dave
 
1. Remove the intake and check the existing gasket for obvious defects. If she has an OEM embossed gasket, it may have gotten some rust on the mating surface and a new gasket is all you need. Run a compression check, a bad intake valve or a broken valve spring will mimic an intake leak.

2. Check your voltage at the distributor with the key in the run position. If the voltage is normal, the ChiCom condensers have a 35 percent defect rate right out of the box.

Dave
Thanks. I did run carburetor cleaner around it and picked up two spots that smoothed out the idle.
 
If the intake mating surfaces are good, use the factory style gasket, less prone to leaking, proper torque issues.

Dave
 
Go with a Pertronix. 10 years plus with absolutely no issues whatsoever.
Hey Ross, good to hear from you. I fully appreciate what you're saying, but Bess only has just over 25,000 miles and I am trying to keep her all original (although I am losing my patience).
 
I understand... but pick your battles wisely!

The trick these days is to find quality ignition parts (stock) that are made with some concept of quality control. Most of the crap that you average auto retailer sells is coming out of China, some of it is pretty good, a lot of it is crap. Problem with consistency.

I kept all of my older Mopars with points except for the one I put the most miles on. That one got an OEM electronic conversion which has been in the car for 20+ years and it still works. FYI Electronic conversions work well if you have an electronic voltage regulator and the later style alternator. They will burn out quickly with a mechanical regulator and the early style alternator so keep that in mind if you ever decide to "Upgrade". Your "66 Imp should, regardless of whether you go electronic have the charging system up grade to prevent a burnout of the ammeter. You can PM me on this if you chose.

Dave



Dave
 
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So, the petronix is a vast improvement over my old 1973 Roadrunner's electronic ignition? :lol:
Pertronix is a good alternative --anything is better than points.
Pertronix has two wires coming out of the distributor and no cutting/hacking of any low mileage wires.
It is equally as good as the factory Electronic ignition system yet not as obvious to maintain the stock look.
Affordable,easy to install.
You can bump the timing up for better performance and MPG
 
Pertronix is a good alternative --anything is better than points.
Pertronix has two wires coming out of the distributor and no cutting/hacking of any low mileage wires.
It is equally as good as the factory Electronic ignition system yet not as obvious to maintain the stock look.
Affordable,easy to install.
You can bump the timing up for better performance and MPG
Thank you.
 
66 300 with Pertronix...very hard to see the difference....
1966 300 revival 002.JPG
 
Just for info, is there a particular petronix that would keep the stock look?

Pertronix I as Pertronix II prefers 12 volts to run. That is what bugged me about the 73 ignition. My Fords have been running II's for years and they all have 13.2 volts in run at the coil. If they haven't been sitting they snap on as soon as you hit the key. I want that for the Dodge but after several failures on II modules I have given up on them for the Dodge. Too expensive at $100+ a pop to replace. Going to HEI under the distributor base and those modules are way cheaper for me to achieve my goal.
 
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