66Plymouth
Member
66 383 all stock other than dual exhaust, 1406 Eddie carb. Heads are 516 and have no port work or anything with a 727 trans. Would there be much HP gain and or worth upping the bump stick with the above parts?
Cam upgrade question
- Thread starter 66Plymouth
- Start date
Ripinator
Old Man with a Hat
Yes. But select a cam that puts the torque in the lower part of RPM range and that works with your probable 3.23 rear end gear.
66Plymouth
Member
Yep 3.23 gears. Anyone in particular that you could suggest?
Ripinator
Old Man with a Hat
Most of the cam manufacturers have a tech line you can call to discuss your car's setup and the various cams they sell that would be appropriate. Comp Cams, Lunatic, Hughes, etc. There are even "apps for that."
Cam recommendations are like asses. . . Everyone has one.
66Plymouth
Member
Sounds good, I've heard of this purple cam and I think it was a 440 cam back in the day but I could be wrong .
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Ripinator
Old Man with a Hat
Yes. The "Purple Cams" are somewhat legendary; however some people say they are old technology, and there are better choices available today. I don't know how true that is. . .
Here is a link to the cam I selected for my recent 440 build:
21-222-4(Single Bolt) - Xtreme Energy™ Hydraulic Flat Tappet Camshafts
Of course, I haven't even re-installed the engine and haven't started it or driven the car. So, I'll not officially recommend this particular cam; however, it does illustrate what seems to be an appropriate cam for a heavy '66 Chrysler convertible with a 3.23 rear gear and a stock converter. Time will tell. . .
Mike66Chryslers
Senior Member
If your 383 originally had a 2 bbl. and advertised 9.2:1 CR, I think you probably want what is sometimes called an "RV cam". The description will say things like: Good vacuum, smooth idle, works with power brakes, stock torque converter and exhaust manifolds, good for towing, lots of torque. The advertised power band will start near idle.
From Comp consider their XE256H. That is one size smaller than the XE262 that Ripinator linked to.
COMP Cams: Xtreme Energy XE256H; 1000 - 5200 RPM Range
From Comp consider their XE256H. That is one size smaller than the XE262 that Ripinator linked to.
COMP Cams: Xtreme Energy XE256H; 1000 - 5200 RPM Range
I would recommend Lunati 10810701 (old 68101)
Got this one on my Polara -66, previously used on my untouched 383 2-bbl converted to 4-bbl 3.23 727 and it works that great as I used the same cam on my new rebuild 383 "high" CR (well, about 9.4:1) with 915 heads (also closed camber as the 516) and HP manifolds and it works great!
It takes a lot of torque to move a -66 C-Body so stay away from "over cam" the 383 on a heavy C-Body...
- Advertised Duration (Int/Exh): 256/262
- Duration @ .050 (Int/Exh): 213/220
- Gross Valve Lift (Int/Exh): .454/.475
- LSA/ICL: 112/108
- Valve Lash (Int/Exh): Hyd/Hyd
- RPM Range: 1000-5500
Got this one on my Polara -66, previously used on my untouched 383 2-bbl converted to 4-bbl 3.23 727 and it works that great as I used the same cam on my new rebuild 383 "high" CR (well, about 9.4:1) with 915 heads (also closed camber as the 516) and HP manifolds and it works great!
It takes a lot of torque to move a -66 C-Body so stay away from "over cam" the 383 on a heavy C-Body...
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Mike66Chryslers
Senior Member
The specs on the Lunati Voodoo that Zwap recommended are similar to the Comp XE256H. The Lunati may be a better choice because of the wider LSA. Comp seems to grind everything, even milder cams, on a core with 110* LSA.
Comp cams use 1 bolt for the timing gear like factory B/RB cams. I believe that Lunati uses a 3-bolt timing gear (like Hemi cams). Confirm your cam before purchasing a timing set to ensure you get a compatible one.
Comp cams use 1 bolt for the timing gear like factory B/RB cams. I believe that Lunati uses a 3-bolt timing gear (like Hemi cams). Confirm your cam before purchasing a timing set to ensure you get a compatible one.
I went with this Lunati Voodoo 3 bolt cam for my 69 300 440 rebuild...hust a bit more lift than the hp mopar blue cam. Idles fine no lope, similar set up as the op described dyno'ed out at 420 hp and almost 500 ft lbs of torque...did buy the cam and lifter kit + springs too.
Voodoo Hydraulic Flat Tappet & Lifter Kit - Chrysler 361-440 Three Bolt 262/268 - Lunati Power
Hydraulic Flat Tappet Cam. Mid-level performance street cam with excellent drivability. Works well with stock type exhaust manifolds and dual plane intake with mild 4 bbl carb. This is an Awesome 4x4 and performance marine cam where dry exhaust is used. Improved valve springs and roller rockers recommended.
Part Number: 10230702LK
Previous Part Number: 60302LK
Jobber Price: $207.70
Voodoo Hydraulic Flat Tappet & Lifter Kit - Chrysler 361-440 Three Bolt 262/268 - Lunati Power
Hydraulic Flat Tappet Cam. Mid-level performance street cam with excellent drivability. Works well with stock type exhaust manifolds and dual plane intake with mild 4 bbl carb. This is an Awesome 4x4 and performance marine cam where dry exhaust is used. Improved valve springs and roller rockers recommended.
- Advertised Duration (Int/Exh): 262/268
- Duration @ .050 (Int/Exh): 220/226
- Gross Valve Lift (Int/Exh): .475/.494
- LSA/ICL: 112/108
- Valve Lash (Int/Exh): Hyd/Hyd
- RPM Range: 1400-5800
- Includes: Cam & Lifters (#71977PR-16)
Part Number: 10230702LK
Previous Part Number: 60302LK
Jobber Price: $207.70
66Plymouth
Member
It did have a 2b but just bought a 4b intake
forgot to add, if you are going to buy and install a new cam, you might as well go 3-bolt...much stronger than the stock 1 bolt. But that might mean changing cam gearing on the crank, which while not too difficult is an additional step.
Mike66Chryslers
Senior Member
If he's still running the factory timing set with nylon coating on the teeth, it's probably due to be replaced anyhow.
66Plymouth
Member
So I have a double roller timing gear/chain but it' a one key crank shaft and timing set. I really don' want to change anything out other possibly chain and lifters. I want to keep the oem rockers and push rod style also. Really kicking around a bigger cam for little extra power and little louder Lope sound but keeping stock converter and stuff;)
i think you will be borrowing trouble by not upgrading the lifter springs when you install a new larger bump cam. More work for you but then you can take the heads off and have hardened valve seats and valves installed to safely run unleaded gas...
while they are at the machine shop (unless you can do that yourself) have them install the new, stronger springs...
while they are at the machine shop (unless you can do that yourself) have them install the new, stronger springs...
66Plymouth
Member
Yeah I plan on have the heads redone so I'll just wait till I get the heads done;) Thanks for all the info
stubs300
Senior Member
Geez, sounds like my 300!
Except I ported the heads, blew out the exhaust valve to 1.74's, and threw in a Hughes 2330 cam. Did it wake it up? Does Howdy Dowdy have wooden balls? I used a 750 cfm, maybe thinkin that's a little big but it works.
Don't use a Comp cam whatever you do, they aren't worth it, and not made to take advantage of Mopars bigger lifters for more power! Stick with a Hughes cam like I did, read up as with the cam I have that's no longer made. I had to use adjustable rockers, depending on which you choose, you may not have to. Good Luck.
Hughes Engines
Moparwilks
Active Member
What’s the difference between the RV cam & the roadruner cam? I put a crane cam in my 400 as close as I could to spec out to the roadrunner 2 degrees more lift and 2 less duration or something like that. I looked in a book at the speed shop (yeah, a store with performance parts before eBay / amazon lol) and I was also told was this was as wild as you want to get while keeping stock head set up.?
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