Car about to be painted

[Cags70PolaraConvert]

So my car is getting close to being repainted after all of the work being done to her. My shop was going over the process and time involved in painting and said a lot of time is consumed painting between the jams (between the fender extensions and the actual fender as well as the quarters). For those who have had their cars re-painted did you have this done? He said it can be done without going between the jams but now I am concerned on how that would look. Any inputs?

 

[413]

Does it need painted in there? You can clean it and polish it by hand and make them look good.

How do they look now? They can last decades and still look good,if they aren’t abused, they aren’t In direct sunlight.

keep in mind (most) body shop guys usually hurry through the prep and painting of jambs and it looks worse after they paint them rather than leaving them alone. Also getting overspray all over the interior. “Time is money”

 

[Cags70PolaraConvert]

My point too is time is money. I have no doubt about my guy doing a solid job, my thought is for what the car is supposed to be do I need to have it painted like a show car. The car was totally disassembled and has just been reassemble to check for gaps and fit. Why disassemble it again to paint between those areas is my thought. The car isn't going to be sold at Mechum or go to any elaborate car shows to get best in show. Again, my thoughts on saving money.

 

[3C's & a D?]

Are you painting it the same colour as the jambs are currently painted?

 

[Cags70PolaraConvert]

Car will be a different color than the original color. I am not having the firewall painted. The interior has already been removed so painting the door jambs isn't an issue. What other it mainly sounded like the jambs between the extension pieces adding hours to the paint job. Those who have had their cars repainted have you had the these spaces opened up and painted in-between?

 

[3C's & a D?]

It's always nice to have the bumpers off. The fender extensions shouldn't need to come off so long as there is no corrosion under them.

 

[Cags70PolaraConvert]

bumpers are off. Car was totally dismantled for a while so the new trunk pan could be put in along with wheel wells, quarter panels, fenders from donor car, trunk lid from donor car. Its a blank canvas right now which is why part of me leans to having those spots done but I have already invested way more than I ever planned to.

 

[3C's & a D?]

In for a penny, in for a pound. With that much work having been completed, I would have a hard time not "going all the way". Rear extensions are 3 or 4 bolts, fronts a few more. Often one or two of the threaded inserts come loose from the fiberglass or pot metal extensions and you have to fiddle with them, otherwise it's not all that much extra work.

 

[HWYCRZR]

Unless you are getting a $1,000 paint job (likely the paint itself is more than that) spend the extra 1% to do it right.
10 extra hours of labor? I know it probably stings right now, but you will likely always look at the jambs a year from now and wish you would have done it.

I sweated bullets on the money and hours spent on final paint, but the sting wore off, I love the finished product, and I am back to drinking whatever beer I want.

 

[MrMoparCHP]

If the engine is out of the car I'd say pull the fenders, leave the doors and trunk on. Take the fender & quarter extensions off.

I'd also be worried about the fact you didn't remove the windshield, even as clean as my car was there was still some rust holes.

On mine the engine was in (the car was still a driver), he was able to jam the trunk and doors then paint the outside. Having the fenders off gave him clear access to the front area of the door and hinges. After I got the car back, I pulled the engine and he did the core support and firewall later.

Alan

 

[CBODY67]

Considering where you now are in the different-color refinish process, you might remove the fenders and let the shop "cut-in" the parts of the fenders which will be seen, around the edges and such (just like they'd do an uninstalled hood). Then put it all back together, as it will end up, and let him do the full body all at once. The fender and quarter panel extensions had a light gray gasket between them and the body part. Painting over those should not be done as it usually makes that "gap" look more evident and worse than it really is, by observation.

Do NOT mention "show car finish" to the shop as that could elevate the price exponentially, by observation. Extra time in prep for that "glass smooth" result. Just spec "OEM finish", which they should be used to doing to match current OEM shine and such (which is usually much better than the OEM paint was back then, what would have been termed "show car" back then, by observation). Whether you are getting single stage acrylic enamel or the basecoat/clearcoat paint system.

Just some thoughts,
CBODY67

 

[cbarge]

With or without the color change,it is worth the effort to blow in the jams before final paint..
Ditto painting the doors,hood and trunk off the car except the outside of doors
In the end when the car is finished,you will be much more happier with it.

 

[Wonderwagon]

Jambs are usually done first, trunk lid inside, followed by panels. Have it sprayed but not colored sanded and buffed.

 

[Cags70PolaraConvert]

Thanks for all of the input. Let's keep going down the hole I guess. Problem is the guy I am using specializes in corvettes. He has a $200,000 68 race car from Sweden sitting in the shop that the client wants to sell now. Any takers? Maybe I would get a commission to pay for the paint costs. lol

 

[CBODY67]

Corvettes and Chryslers . . . they all paint the same.

 

[The Goose]

I always took as much off as I could and I always made spray cans to shoot the areas they neglect to hit BEFORE I took it in to the paint guys. This gets you a better than average still cheap(er) paint job. I figured if they oversprayed my enamel with their same color enamel - how could it hurt.

My current convertible not so much it’s just a low buck fun car. I did the bare minimum on the door jams and skipped the engine bay and trunk until later as they’re never open anyways. I think it’s came out good for the 300 dollar spring special.

Just remember it’s hard to go back into a paint job without a time machine...

 

[Cags70PolaraConvert]

I always took as much off as I could and I always made spray cans to shoot the areas they neglect to hit BEFORE I took it in to the paint guys. This gets you a better than average still cheap(er) paint job. I figured if they oversprayed my enamel with their same color enamel - how could it hurt.

My current convertible not so much it’s just a low buck fun car. I did the bare minimum on the door jams and skipped the engine bay and trunk until later as they’re never open anyways. I think it’s came out good for the 300 dollar spring special.

Just remember it’s hard to go back into a paint job without a time machine...

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Pardon my ignorance but is that the same car or two different? The red painted car is the finish I am looking for, just in blue. Heck, I was happy with my Home Depot spray paint paint job for a while until it started to fade and crack.

 

[The Goose]

Yes sir! Started out in that fire bombed shape and made it into a fun, good lookin 15 footer. I sanded it and did my best crappy bodywork. Then waited for Maaco’s $300 spring special. Single stage enamel in R6 scorch red. By never waxing it and parking it out of the sun it still looks like new paint many years later. But we’re not afraid to sit on the fenders. When it finally fades I’m gonna letter it up like the Manzanita Speedway pace car. (It was a big red Buick or Olds but who really cares or remembers) Should be fun like that until I paint it again. Problem is it hasn’t faded yet...

 

[Cags70PolaraConvert]

Thanks for sharing the pics. Looks awesome.

 

[The Goose]

Best of luck with your paint job. It ain’t easy navigating the body shop world...