Yes I still have that one installed. There was a time I ran without it and it still ran the same. I currently still have the pressure gauge installed at the factory location in the engine bay.
Engine cuts out after 3 to 4 seconds of medium acceration
- Thread starter Zymurgy
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Yes I still have that one installed. There was a time I ran without it and it still ran the same. I currently still have the pressure gauge installed at the factory location in the engine bay.
I looked for the Edelbrock gasket. It is looking like a 1/2 inch spacer is the smallest. I realized my mechanical choke will not work with this elevated position. I was having some issues with the choke and was thinking of changing to an electric choke anyway.
Landyacht
Active Member
Perfect thanks, I looked at Summit and Jegs and couldn't find it on either one.
ccasion14:Ordered.
cm23uoc
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Did you open the carb up and take out parts of the acc. pump System ?
I'm completely unfamiliar with this Setup, still have to get a Manual, Euro carbs I have are way different, so just trying to hint.
I had issues with different types of a Rochester Varajet concerning the acc. system, but that's another Story unrelated.
I replaced the accelerator pump early on and rebuilt the carb again. Matt and one of the other guys on the site made the suggestion of viewing the fuel pressure while driving. I am planning this weekend to insert a T in the fuel line and running the pressure gauge in my view while driving.
Wildaugust
Senior Member
Something that I would try. I would try to rule out an electrical problem first, before suspecting a fuel problem. You could connect the (+) Positive lead from a 12 Volt Test Light, or rig up a small 12 volt bulb, to the 12 volt side of the Ballast Resistor and connect the other lead to ground. Place and secure the light where you can see it while driving. Go for a drive. If the light goes out momentarily while you're driving, then you'll know that the engine is "cutting out" because of possibly a bad connection in the wiring harness, bulkhead connector or at the Fusible Link, a defect in the Ignition Switch or a broken wire in the harness somewhere. This test will show whether or not you have constant, reliable voltage as far as the Ballast Resistor. Now connect the light to the (+) Positive side of the ignition coil and go for another drive to see if the wiring from the resistor to coil is okay. The light likely wont be as bright, but what matters is whether it stays lit constantly. If the light doesn't go out intermittently and your engine still dies, then you'll know that it's either the ignition coil, in the distributor or a fuel related issue.
This is what I would try if it were my car.
This is what I would try if it were my car.
Something that I would try. I would try to rule out an electrical problem first, before suspecting a fuel problem. You could connect the (+) Positive lead from a 12 Volt Test Light, or rig up a small 12 volt bulb, to the 12 volt side of the Ballast Resistor and connect the other lead to ground. Place and secure the light where you can see it while driving. Go for a drive. If the light goes out momentarily while you're driving, then you'll know that the engine is "cutting out" because of possibly a bad connection in the wiring harness, bulkhead connector or at the Fusible Link, a defect in the Ignition Switch or a broken wire in the harness somewhere. This test will show whether or not you have constant, reliable voltage as far as the Ballast Resistor. Now connect the light to the (+) Positive side of the ignition coil and go for another drive to see if the wiring from the resistor to coil is okay. The light likely wont be as bright, but what matters is whether it stays lit constantly. If the light doesn't go out intermittently and your engine still dies, then you'll know that it's either the ignition coil, in the distributor or a fuel related issue.
This is what I would try if it were my car.
Thanks this is the kind of info I need to start eliminating the possible causes.
Wildaugust
Senior Member
Just be sure to use a small, low wattage bulb like the type used for dash lights.
70bigblockdodge
Old Man with a Hat
Or just connect a multimeter to ballast resistor about 9 volts on the coil + side
OK it is fuel related. I added my psi fuel gauge within viewing from the drivers seat. When I press the accelerator psi goes to 0. Thank you Matt and 65Fury440 for the suggestion.:yourock:ccasion14:
Now I either have 2 bad fuel pumps or something to deal with the rubber lines added. I plan on adding a couple of 90 fitting to to shorten the line going to the pump.
ccasion14:Now I either have 2 bad fuel pumps or something to deal with the rubber lines added. I plan on adding a couple of 90 fitting to to shorten the line going to the pump.
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It wasn't me, I phoned a friend. Bob (CLover), I go to him for all things tech that I need advice on. Dude could write service manuals.
Does the gas line get near the exhaust manifold or pipe? Heat will cause a similar issue.
No and it does it from the first time I started it with a cold engine.
I think I am going to buy a regulator and try to use the current pump. It says it doesn't need one, but 65Fury440 had put a cheaper regulator and had the same problem I am having. He put on a better regulator and problem solved.
You still deserve the thanks Matt, because you took it upon yourself to call you buddy to ask his advice, about my problem. :yourock:
65Fury440
Senior Member
Cool that you narrowed it down. Now there is either a suction side or pressure side obstruction you have to figure out.
Remove your fuel line before the electric pump, blow back into the tank with about 20 lbs of compressed air with the gas cap off. You should hear the air flowing pretty good, also listen to hear if it is bubbling(means your pickup is submerged).If it seems like you are flowing freely into the tank, move on. Tighten up all the inlet lines so you know it isn't sucking air.
Take it for a ride with your gas cap loose.If it works at this point, you are looking at a gas cap, vent, or pick up problem
If you still have the problem, it's probably another bad pump/regulator.I don't know if you are trying to push gas through the old mechanical fuel pump, if you are, bypass it.
Keep in mind,to set a fuel regulator, the more you screw it in, the higher the PSI will be. I'm thinking you have the electric fp working well, so you can discount that.
Make sure you check the easy stuff first, before it becomes a scary 10 headed dragon.
Good luck!!
Remove your fuel line before the electric pump, blow back into the tank with about 20 lbs of compressed air with the gas cap off. You should hear the air flowing pretty good, also listen to hear if it is bubbling(means your pickup is submerged).If it seems like you are flowing freely into the tank, move on. Tighten up all the inlet lines so you know it isn't sucking air.
Take it for a ride with your gas cap loose.If it works at this point, you are looking at a gas cap, vent, or pick up problem
If you still have the problem, it's probably another bad pump/regulator.I don't know if you are trying to push gas through the old mechanical fuel pump, if you are, bypass it.
Keep in mind,to set a fuel regulator, the more you screw it in, the higher the PSI will be. I'm thinking you have the electric fp working well, so you can discount that.
Make sure you check the easy stuff first, before it becomes a scary 10 headed dragon.
Good luck!!
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No problem buddy!
68plymouth383
Senior Member
I agree with what Doug said. Just check one thing at a time.
rexus31
Senior Member
Hate to tell you this Mike but you probably already know. You need to get to work on the stuck fuel pump pushrod and fix it right. Trying to band aid it is more than likely going to make things worse.
commando1
Old Man with a Hat
That's how we get things done!!
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