Engine cuts out after 3 to 4 seconds of medium acceration

Ouch, I'm thinking wiped out cam lobe.
While you're in there, might as well throw in a new cam and lifters.....since the intake's off it would be simple to upgrade the heads, going to need a bigger carb then.After all of that your going to need bigger fuel line, oh and an electric fuel pump.
 
Well my electric fuel pump woes continue, my relay is f^*&@-up. I thought it was the circuit breaker but there must be some kind of short in the base of the relay.

Plan B was to weld a 1/4" bolt to my to my push rod and then just simply back it out of the block. I tried it twice. The second time I felt like I got a good bead on the top. I put probably 30lbs of torque just to try and twist it around and add another spot weld. The weld broke loose and the push rod didn't budge. Dammit I really thought it would work.

My plan C for the summer is to hook the pump directly to the battery (it does work in this set up) and add a switch under the dash to turn the pump on and off. At this point I don't even want to try a different relay set up, Edelbrock makes one which is the make of the pump. Mine is a generic Jegs brand.

This winter it will be off with the timing pan and do it right.
 
hey man hold up you will die doing that. we can get it right :)

"my dads a TV repair man.. he's got an awesome set of tools. he can fix it"

seriously. go get a bosch type relay from anywhere. vatozone. wherever. they are all the same in how they work. we will step thru wiring it.

on the FP pushrod - it should fall out, like I had to put a dab of grease on it to hold it there long enough to fit the mechanical pump. so -on your stuck one - what if you come at it from the hole where the pump fits? can you pry or lever on it that direction to try to push it outwards out of the hole? also - you do have that allen head hex cap removed?
 
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Thanks for all the advice. I have tired everything on the push rod removing the timing pan is the only way. I have gone back through the relay installation several times now, this one is installed correctly, so there is something going on with this relay.

Ironically the PO installed the mechanical fuel pump improperly and is why it sat for 32 years. I found the problem within 15 minutes and with the push rod installed properly and a new fuel pump I had it running. None of this is new territory for me that is what is frustrating.
 
Is your regulator working properly?
 
detmatt said:
Is your regulator working properly?
Click to expand...

I was just wondering about that. Thanks for the suggestion Matt, it looks like the NAPA one looks the most like our original.

I was going to test the voltage back at the pump yesterday with the engine running yesterday, but ran out of time.
 
Last edited:
detmatt said:
Is your regulator working properly?
Click to expand...

Thank you thank you thank you! That was my problem.

My rejoice was short lived. I think my alternator may be going bad even though it passed a bench test. I have had the alternator off several times when I put it back on the belt squeeked it never does this. I tightened it down drove home, by the time I was running into my development it was running lik e crap at low idle and belt squeeking again.


I started it an hour later it could not idle and alternator guage was bouncing all over the place.

New alternator is suppose to be in this morning, hopefully this is the issue. There was an oilly residue all over the internal workings,
 
Damn Mike, if it's not one thing it's another!
 
I was so confident that alternator would fail when tested, now it has me second guessing everything I have changed or worked on. I will know later this morning.
 
Problem officially resolved. What popped up Friday was new. It was a big vacuum leak. The capped line on my brake booster popped off, and it ran like ****. I pulled it out in the daylight and saw it almost immediately. My garage at home has poor lighting.

Officially the problem was human error. I hook the ignition line for the relay to the Ignition side of my voltage regulator.

DO NOT MAKE THE SAME MISTAKE I DID! It said IGN and I got voltage when the ignition was turned on, but the voltage jumps all over the place under different rpm.

It is now hooked up to the ignition line from keyed ignition switch. The thread can officially end I am out of here.

:3gears:
 
68plymouth383 said:
Mike, are you dipping out on us? Or just shutting down this saga?...
Click to expand...

What and miss out on all the fun? No just closing the saga, I never complete lost it, but I was close when the vacuum leak reared its ugly head. It never ran that bad before, even the first time I started her after a 32 year slumber.
 
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