Front shocks, Sensa-Trac or Gas-a-Just?

FurySp

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Do you guys have any thoughts about front shocks, which one would be better Monroe or KYB? I looked at some other forums, many said that monroes are more soft and comfortable, and KYBs more firm and sometimes maybe too stiff, but that may depend on the application they're on. What do you guys think?
 
Good, more opinions would be welcome. Looked also at Rockauto, they had the Gas-a-Justs much more cheaper...
 
i put OEM replacement on my 68 fury III, wish i had spent the $ and gone KYB. the OEM replacements are OK, but kinda soft.
 
I have used both (Monroe and KYB) on several of my Chrysler cars. I prefer the KYB. For me, the Monroe product is too soft. The KYB is definitely stiffer. Too stiff? It depends on the particular car that you are working with and personal preference. I have settled on KYB for use in my 1970 Challenger, 1973 Duster, 1976 NYB 4-door, etc. I have not tried Bilstein because of the extra cost. My neighbor prefers Bilstein for his vehicles.
 
I have KYB in the front and Monroe air shocks in the back. I like that combo but think that the monroes are a little too soft, i like the feel when I pump a lot mor air in them but that raises the back too much....
 
I put the Monroe but the rears have the springs on the shocks. Really bites the road nice hitting the gas. Little stiff but I like how mine drives.
 
I had adjustable Konis put in my former car ('70 New Yorker 4d HT). They used to be THE shock to have back in the day. My old man's car had them too, 40 some years ago. You can still find NOS pieces of the rear end Konis (# 82-1400 or #82-1787, both will do.) Front shocks (#80-1742) are obsolete nowadays, so I had a pair custom made out of Porsche 356 Koni shocks (#80-1011). To my surprise, they had (according to a period Koni catalogue) the same dimensions, and almost the same compression & decompression values as the original C-body shock. I picked up some info on the Koni shocks out of that catalogue, too, for comparison. I also had the KYB tested in a shock dyno, just to find out how it was. Here's the data:

Koni # 80-1742: 168 lbs bounce - 449 lbs rebounce (OE replacement, heavy duty shock. Obsolete.)
Koni # 80-1011: 168 lbs bounce - 460 lbs rebounce (Porsche 356 shock, in production.)
Koni # 80-2553: 168 lbs bounce - 483 lbs rebounce (The Isuzu Pick Up Truck shock, Koni Heavy Track-series. Non-adjustable.)
Koni # 80-1914: 236 lbs bounce - 225 lbs rebounce (The '67-'69 Camaro shock, which will fit in, but is both too hard & too weak.)
KYB Gas-A-Just: 202 lbs bounce - 225 lbs rebounce (Like the Camaro shock: too hard going down, and too weak in actual shock absorbing.)

From my experience, the Koni is a superior shock absorber for a C-body. The Konis feel very soft first, but firm when you start to push harder. You can read that from the data, too. The Bilstein is probably very much like the Koni. I have no experience on it, however. - I just recently purchased a pair of NOS Chrysler Oriflow front shocks. I intend to have them tested in the dyno. Just to find out how they are. Will post the results later.
 
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I think I'll just go for the KYBs. That Koni stuff sounds like a lot of work and money too, but they would be great no doubt about that.
I have air adjustable Gabriel Hijackers in the rear, I really like how the rear end feels. But now with new rear shocks and old ones in front, the car isn't really good to drive at highway speeds, so new ones to the front ASAP.
 
You guys running air shocks on the rear need to keep a sharp eye on the rear upper shock mount/cross member.
Air pressure over 10 Lbs will put more load on the shocks, (which, by the way, are designed to absorb joust, not support weight). The top shock mount is a stamped metal cross member that is subject to damage is over loaded.

It's no fun repairing or changing it.
 
10Lbs of air? that seems very little, I feel like the rear end is extremely soft just putting 20PSI in it...
 
10Lbs of air? that seems very little, I feel like the rear end is extremely soft just putting 20PSI in it...

Perhaps you need springs.....? Like I stated, using shocks to support vehicle weight can lead to serious issues. Air shocks are designed for temporary overload conditions, trailer towing etc, and should only be run with 5-10 LBS when not needed. I prefer not to use them at all.
There were some vehicles designed with air suspension but they are a whole different construction.
 
I had adjustable Konis put in my former car ('70 New Yorker 4d HT). They used to be THE shock to have back in the day. My old man's car had them too, 40 some years ago. You can still find NOS pieces of the rear end Konis (# 82-1400 or #82-1787, both will do.) Front shocks (#80-1742) are obsolete nowadays, so I had a pair custom made out of Porsche 356 Koni shocks (#80-1011). To my surprise, they had (according to a period Koni catalogue) the same dimensions, and almost the same compression & decompression values as the original C-body shock. I picked up some info on the Koni shocks out of that catalogue, too, for comparison. I also had the KYB tested in a shock dyno, just to find out how it was. Here's the data:

Koni # 80-1742: 168 lbs bounce - 449 lbs rebounce (OE replacement, heavy duty shock. Obsolete.)
Koni # 80-1011: 168 lbs bounce - 460 lbs rebounce (Porsche 356 shock, in production.)
Koni # 80-2553: 168 lbs bounce - 483 lbs rebounce (The Isuzu Pick Up Truck shock, Koni Heavy Track-series. Non-adjustable.)
Koni # 80-1914: 236 lbs bounce - 225 lbs rebounce (The '67-'69 Camaro shock, which will fit in, but is both too hard & too weak.)
KYB Gas-A-Just: 202 lbs bounce - 225 lbs rebounce (Like the Camaro shock: too hard going down, and too weak in actual shock absorbing.)

From my experience, the Koni is a superior shock absorber for a C-body. The Konis feel very soft first, but firm when you start to push harder. You can read that from the data, too. The Bilstein is probably very much like the Koni. I have no experience on it, however. - I just recently purchased a pair of NOS Chrysler Oriflow front shocks. I intend to have them tested in the dyno. Just to find out how they are. Will post the results later.
I put the Bilsteins on mine. They are fatter in diameter than the kyb's (I put those on my old Superbee), and as such I had to drop the lower A frame to install them. Didn't take much time, but it was a little more of a pain.
 
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