General Questions on a 1977 Newport

[Pclancy]

Gentlemen:

I'm a semi-regular contributor to this forum. I don't add knowledge, but I attempt to suck it up from you guys.

I am fascinated (absolutely smitten) by my 1977 Canadian Newport Coupe, which I purchased on BAT for $5700. I have put at least that amount into additional repairs. The vehicle now runs very well. I often work overseas, so I only get to drive my baby every 2-3 months when I am home between assignments.

Here she is: 1977 Chrysler Newport Coupe

Anyway here's a few questions for you all.

1. @Javier, if my Air Temp II system ever breaks down, will you fix it if I bring you the car? From my reading of your thread, you are an acknowledged master. I would not trust anyone else.

2. My transmission seems to shift smoothly. I changed the fluid a couple of years ago. But I doubt it has ever been serviced otherwise. Should I worry about that? I would also worry about taking it somewhere for service and then having it come back in worse shape.

I have fixed just about everything possible on the vehicle. Little stuff that remains:

3. I'm not sure about the electric door locks. Was that an option? They don't really work, and so I need to lock/unlock the doors individually. But there seems to be an attempt by the system to lock/unlock the other door when you lock/unlock one. It makes a noise, and that's about it.

4. Finally, the right side passenger mirror has a control on the dash to move it. It is getting very sloppy, and while I can move it with the control, it's hard to adjust. Can this be fixed or tuned up easily?

I appreciate your kind responses. I can't do the work on the vehicle myself, having few skills and no tools. I have good mechanics, but they are not specialists like you.

With kind regards,

Peter Clancy

 

[commando1]

4. Finally, the right side passenger mirror has a control on the dash to move it. It is getting very sloppy, and while I can move it with the control, it's hard to adjust. Can this be fixed or tuned up easily?

I can speak to this personally.
As you know, the dash control is a Joystick. Connecting the joystick and the mirror are three cables. Where the cables attach to the mirror, it gets rusty and binds.
Here's the problem: Getting inside of the mirror housing is damn near impossible. Very easy to break the mirror a/o snap off the ends of the cable.

 

[CBODY67]

As a curious question, how prone are the cables to stretching when they get stiff? Can some lube/penetrant be applied to the mirror pivot/cable connections, carefully?

On the transmission, the TF is pretty forgiving of an incorrect fluid. The spec is the former GM Dexron-family fluid. The latest one is more of full synthetic, but all Dexron fluids, according to GM, are backward compatible for any GM automatic trans to 1949 (the first HydraMatic). I'm not sure about the Chry-band fluids, though. So a Dexron III-spec/type fluid will work fine. Main thing is that you drive the car long enough to get the trans fluid hot enough to cook out any moisture which might accumulate in the fluid while the car sits.

The electric door locks were optional. They are simple solenoids that are bi-directional. It might be possible to spray some penetrant/lube down their shafts, under the protective rubber boots, to see if they can be freed-up to work better. The driver's door lock might be a "master switch", as is the lh door lock, to work all of the locks from there? Check the owner's manual to verify that. The rh lock would be just for that individual door, I suspect? Worst case scenario, replace with new ones and verify no wiring issues.

Enjoy the car when you can!

CBOD67

 

[1978 NYB]

Door locks are tricky.

Sometimes the driver's door lock controls the rest of the door locks locking and unlocking. I had a bad door solenoid on the driver door that prevented any of the doors opening or locking. I replaced the lock cylinder actuator/solenoid on the drivers door and magically all 4 doors started to work.

The TF responds best with Type F txsm fluid. Seems to shift a little crisper. Everyone I know that races with a TF uses Type F fluid.

That remote mirror control....once that cable starts to bind....forget it. Find a new one or I use a piece of rubber hose and wedge the mirror into position by placing to rubber hose between the mirror frame and the glass. No adjustment problems after that.

 

[Pclancy]

Thanks for the replies.

Just so I understand you: The transmission fluid was changed about 2 years ago. I am not sure about the filter or gasket. Again, the transmission shifts smoothly. Ares any other maintenance (preventative) items needed or a good idea? Replacing the filter? Replacing the pan gasket? I'm a firm believer in leaving things well enough alone, but on the other hand I was shocked to learn the other month that my ac compressor was low on oil. Never even knew you needed to check that. So is sending this 727 transmission in for a flush, filter and pan gasket a good idea? Assuming that wasn't done?

I am confused by your transmission fluid comments. Do I use type F fluid, or a Dexron-II-spec?

Re the door locks, it is the LH side that controls both doors. Where would I find a lock cyclinder solenoid for the driver's door? Assuming that is problem.

Re the mirror, I think I will make the final adjustments by hand, at least for the moment.

Thanks again for your help.

 

[Davea Lux]

Thanks for the replies.

Just so I understand you: The transmission fluid was changed about 2 years ago. I am not sure about the filter or gasket. Again, the transmission shifts smoothly. Ares any other maintenance (preventative) items needed or a good idea? Replacing the filter? Replacing the pan gasket? I'm a firm believer in leaving things well enough alone, but on the other hand I was shocked to learn the other month that my ac compressor was low on oil. Never even knew you needed to check that. So is sending this 727 transmission in for a flush, filter and pan gasket a good idea? Assuming that wasn't done?

I am confused by your transmission fluid comments. Do I use type F fluid, or a Dexron-II-spec?

Re the door locks, it is the LH side that controls both doors. Where would I find a lock cyclinder solenoid for the driver's door? Assuming that is problem.

Re the mirror, I think I will make the final adjustments by hand, at least for the moment.

Thanks again for your help.

The transmission fluid should be good for about 36k miles under normal service conditions. The owners manual stated that the oil was good for the life of the transmission, Maybe under perfect light use conditions, but I always thought somebody might have been smoking something funny when they thought up that one!
Check the color of the fluid on the dipstick. If it is bright colored and clear, you do not need to change it. For normal driving, Dexron would be my preferred choice, as mentioned above for performance work the Ford rated fluid might be better as the formula gives less slippage and crisper shifts, that will not be an issue in normal pleasure driving. Dexron II is no longer being made but the modern Dexron IV works just fine. If your transmission is shifting correctly, I would leave good enough alone. If the fluid starts to darken, smell bad or you have reached the service interval, that indicates a fluid change, the filter and pan gasket should also be changed and a band adjustment made as part of a routine transmission service. You do not need to flush the transmission beyond having all the old fluid removed. The flush products are usually a solvent based and can do more harm than good. When you drive the car as noted above let the transmission get warmed up with 20 or more miles driving this will help to evaporate any condensation that may have accumulated.

The door locks are controlled by a solenoid. Remove the inner door panel on the drivers door and check the linkage rod from the solenoid to the door lock. The linkage sometimes works loose and detaches. The other issue is that the door lock can be sufficiently gummed up to prevent the solenoid from being able to move it. Apply some spray lube to the lock and inside the rubber boot for the solenoid. The master switch on the drivers door for the locks could also be bad. You can test that with a test light to see if you have power to the other door locks when you push their respective buttons. You may have to spray lubricant on all of them.

The RV2 compressor will lose oil over time. The front shaft seal is a machined carbon type. The compressor oil fills the void in the seal to keep R-12 or R134a vapor from escaping. This process causes the loss of small amounts of oil over time. A compressor that is low on charge will lose more oil over time since there is not enough gas pressure to keep the seal pressed tightly together, the lower the charge, the more leakage. It is a good idea to have the refrigerant checked yearly, especially if your system has been converted to run on R-134a.

Dave

 

[Pclancy]

The transmission fluid should be good for about 36k miles under normal service conditions. The owners manual stated that the oil was good for the life of the transmission, Maybe under perfect light use conditions, but I always thought somebody might have been smoking something funny when they thought up that one!
Check the color of the fluid on the dipstick. If it is bright colored and clear, you do not need to change it. For normal driving, Dexron would be my preferred choice, as mentioned above for performance work the Ford rated fluid might be better as the formula gives less slippage and crisper shifts, that will not be an issue in normal pleasure driving. Dexron II is no longer being made but the modern Dexron IV works just fine. If your transmission is shifting correctly, I would leave good enough alone. If the fluid starts to darken, smell bad or you have reached the service interval, that indicates a fluid change, the filter and pan gasket should also be changed and a band adjustment made as part of a routine transmission service. You do not need to flush the transmission beyond having all the old fluid removed. The flush products are usually a solvent based and can do more harm than good. When you drive the car as noted above let the transmission get warmed up with 20 or more miles driving this will help to evaporate any condensation that may have accumulated.

The door locks are controlled by a solenoid. Remove the inner door panel on the drivers door and check the linkage rod from the solenoid to the door lock. The linkage sometimes works loose and detaches. The other issue is that the door lock can be sufficiently gummed up to prevent the solenoid from being able to move it. Apply some spray lube to the lock and inside the rubber boot for the solenoid. The master switch on the drivers door for the locks could also be bad. You can test that with a test light to see if you have power to the other door locks when you push their respective buttons. You may have to spray lubricant on all of them.

The RV2 compressor will lose oil over time. The front shaft seal is a machined carbon type. The compressor oil fills the void in the seal to keep R-12 or R134a vapor from escaping. This process causes the loss of small amounts of oil over time. A compressor that is low on charge will lose more oil over time since there is not enough gas pressure to keep the seal pressed tightly together, the lower the charge, the more leakage. It is a good idea to have the refrigerant checked yearly, especially if your system has been converted to run on R-134a.

Dave

Dave,

A fantastic reply. Concise and helpful. I thank you very much.

 

[73 T&C]

1. @Javier, if my Air Temp II system ever breaks down, will you fix it if I bring you the car? From my reading of your thread, you are an acknowledged master. I would not trust anyone else.

Thanks for the kind words. There’s nothing too special about what I did. I pm’d you with contact for my friend’s shop. But I must tell you that I’m in Miami and it may be quite a haul to get your car here. I created the thread for you or anyone to use. It will take about two hours to read and digest it all so feel free to share it with a local mechanic willing to learn.

If it helps, the AutoTemp II system took me about 24 hours of labor to get working and about $500 in parts and spares. The A/C and Heater, starting with the cooling system, compressor, evaporator, expansion valve block, heater valve, replacement lines and r12 freon, has cost me about $1500 and another 30 hours of labor but it was my first time on this model so some of that time was figuring it out.

Javier.

 

[commando1]

Javier, I'm disappointed that there wasn't more about actually getting at the box, removing it, and then buttoning everything back up in that pit of hell.
Almost as if it was a non-issue with you.

 

[70bigblockdodge]

Thanks for the replies.

Just so I understand you: The transmission fluid was changed about 2 years ago. I am not sure about the filter or gasket. Again, the transmission shifts smoothly. Ares any other maintenance (preventative) items needed or a good idea? Replacing the filter? Replacing the pan gasket? I'm a firm believer in leaving things well enough alone, but on the other hand I was shocked to learn the other month that my ac compressor was low on oil. Never even knew you needed to check that. So is sending this 727 transmission in for a flush, filter and pan gasket a good idea? Assuming that wasn't done?

I am confused by your transmission fluid comments. Do I use type F fluid, or a Dexron-II-spec?

Re the door locks, it is the LH side that controls both doors. Where would I find a lock cyclinder solenoid for the driver's door? Assuming that is problem.

Re the mirror, I think I will make the final adjustments by hand, at least for the moment.

Thanks again for your help.

I'm going to guess they pulled the pan and filter on transmission fluid swap, really no way to change fluid except for dipstick sucker/filler machine. At this point either way if the trans is shifting right it is okay. Generally speaking, old transmissions with bands inside should really have the filter changed because the band (grabbing a spinning drum) is highest wear point, equals stuff in pan. New multi clutch transmissions do not have this issue. I would not be concerned until a problem arises, then you know to probably just have it pulled and rebuilt, which might be 10 years down the road. I prefer type F fluid but the dexron/mercon 111 seems to work fine.
Lube everything you can get to. Everything works better without rust or scale on it.

 

[Carmine]

2. My transmission seems to shift smoothly. I changed the fluid a couple of years ago. But I doubt it has ever been serviced otherwise. Should I worry about that? I would also worry about taking it somewhere for service and then having it come back in worse shape.

You're fine. I haven't touched the trans fluid in many of my 727s in a decade+. And I just took one of the least-mainted (my old truck) on the expressway today. I like Type F as well, as does everyone I know who builds these transmissions. Just check it occasionally and beware of dark colors or very foul odors (it doesn't smell great when new).


3. I'm not sure about the electric door locks. Was that an option? They don't really work, and so I need to lock/unlock the doors individually. But there seems to be an attempt by the system to lock/unlock the other door when you lock/unlock one. It makes a noise, and that's about it.

The 40-y/o lube on all linkage pieces is turning to sticky glue. Have everything associated with door linkage cleaned and re-greased with something synthetic. The solenoids can also become weak, especially from trying to move sticky linkage. Someone could attempt to disassemble them and clean them at the component level, or buy new ones (ebay?) All electrical connections need to be clean as these parts really need every last amp to do their job. The fact that the other side "tries" tells me you at least have a completed circuit. On a 2 door, either door should open the other by pulling up on the lock button.

4. Finally, the right side passenger mirror has a control on the dash to move it. It is getting very sloppy, and while I can move it with the control, it's hard to adjust. Can this be fixed or tuned up easily?

Find something that won't soak up moisture, like a plastic bag, and wedge it behind the mirror in a position you find useful. There is really no way to better explain this. Obviously trim any excess. Perhaps a discrete bead of clear silicone at an edge. Then be sure you don't grow or shrink.

 

[73 T&C]

Javier, I'm disappointed that there wasn't more about actually getting at the box, removing it, and then buttoning everything back up in that pit of hell.
Almost as if it was a non-issue with you.

Good point Stan. I always appreciate good critics and I see where you think I may have skipped over it a bit in my refurbishing thread. I’ll add a section about the Airbox removal in the ATC II thread.

Quite honestly, it was fairly straight forward and fairly obvious after some time spent making observations. I did note the way it came out,(rotated top toward you then slide it to the left as you pull it out) but the FSM is fairly weak in its description.

Just finishing up the engine side of that thread today.

 

[Pclancy]

2. My transmission seems to shift smoothly. I changed the fluid a couple of years ago. But I doubt it has ever been serviced otherwise. Should I worry about that? I would also worry about taking it somewhere for service and then having it come back in worse shape.

You're fine. I haven't touched the trans fluid in many of my 727s in a decade+. And I just took one of the least-mainted (my old truck) on the expressway today. I like Type F as well, as does everyone I know who builds these transmissions. Just check it occasionally and beware of dark colors or very foul odors (it doesn't smell great when new).


3. I'm not sure about the electric door locks. Was that an option? They don't really work, and so I need to lock/unlock the doors individually. But there seems to be an attempt by the system to lock/unlock the other door when you lock/unlock one. It makes a noise, and that's about it.

The 40-y/o lube on all linkage pieces is turning to sticky glue. Have everything associated with door linkage cleaned and re-greased with something synthetic. The solenoids can also become weak, especially from trying to move sticky linkage. Someone could attempt to disassemble them and clean them at the component level, or buy new ones (ebay?) All electrical connections need to be clean as these parts really need every last amp to do their job. The fact that the other side "tries" tells me you at least have a completed circuit. On a 2 door, either door should open the other by pulling up on the lock button.

4. Finally, the right side passenger mirror has a control on the dash to move it. It is getting very sloppy, and while I can move it with the control, it's hard to adjust. Can this be fixed or tuned up easily?

Find something that won't soak up moisture, like a plastic bag, and wedge it behind the mirror in a position you find useful. There is really no way to better explain this. Obviously trim any excess. Perhaps a discrete bead of clear silicone at an edge. Then be sure you don't grow or shrink.

Great reply....Funny thing is...and I know this sounds really stupid....but I assume there is no separate "lock button" but just simply the knob you raise and lower manually to lock the door. My windows are manual. The noise and slight movement the other door lock knob makes when you raise the knob on the drivers' side door (don't know if it works the other way around) is the only reason why I thought this was some sort of automatic system. Are we saying the same thing?

 

[Pclancy]

2. My transmission seems to shift smoothly. I changed the fluid a couple of years ago. But I doubt it has ever been serviced otherwise. Should I worry about that? I would also worry about taking it somewhere for service and then having it come back in worse shape.

You're fine. I haven't touched the trans fluid in many of my 727s in a decade+. And I just took one of the least-mainted (my old truck) on the expressway today. I like Type F as well, as does everyone I know who builds these transmissions. Just check it occasionally and beware of dark colors or very foul odors (it doesn't smell great when new).


3. I'm not sure about the electric door locks. Was that an option? They don't really work, and so I need to lock/unlock the doors individually. But there seems to be an attempt by the system to lock/unlock the other door when you lock/unlock one. It makes a noise, and that's about it.

The 40-y/o lube on all linkage pieces is turning to sticky glue. Have everything associated with door linkage cleaned and re-greased with something synthetic. The solenoids can also become weak, especially from trying to move sticky linkage. Someone could attempt to disassemble them and clean them at the component level, or buy new ones (ebay?) All electrical connections need to be clean as these parts really need every last amp to do their job. The fact that the other side "tries" tells me you at least have a completed circuit. On a 2 door, either door should open the other by pulling up on the lock button.

4. Finally, the right side passenger mirror has a control on the dash to move it. It is getting very sloppy, and while I can move it with the control, it's hard to adjust. Can this be fixed or tuned up easily?

Find something that won't soak up moisture, like a plastic bag, and wedge it behind the mirror in a position you find useful. There is really no way to better explain this. Obviously trim any excess. Perhaps a discrete bead of clear silicone at an edge. Then be sure you don't grow or shrink.

Great advice. Thank you so much!

 

[Pclancy]

I'm going to guess they pulled the pan and filter on transmission fluid swap, really no way to change fluid except for dipstick sucker/filler machine. At this point either way if the trans is shifting right it is okay. Generally speaking, old transmissions with bands inside should really have the filter changed because the band (grabbing a spinning drum) is highest wear point, equals stuff in pan. New multi clutch transmissions do not have this issue. I would not be concerned until a problem arises, then you know to probably just have it pulled and rebuilt, which might be 10 years down the road. I prefer type F fluid but the dexron/mercon 111 seems to work fine.
Lube everything you can get to. Everything works better without rust or scale on it.

Thanks. Good stuff.

 

[Carmine]

Great reply....Funny thing is...and I know this sounds really stupid....but I assume there is no separate "lock button" but just simply the knob you raise and lower manually to lock the door. My windows are manual. The noise and slight movement the other door lock knob makes when you raise the knob on the drivers' side door (don't know if it works the other way around) is the only reason why I thought this was some sort of automatic system. Are we saying the same thing?

If a door lock other than the one you are touching at the moment "makes noise" you have electric locks. These are on my '76 Dodge. If I raise/lower either of the front door knobs, all four will actuate. Only the higher priced NY'ers and Imperials had separate switches (as are common today). Your knobs should look like mine, but it's possible someone could have swapped them for the more common plain knobs.

Power windows and locks were available independently, which seems weird now, but was common back then.

 

[Pclancy]

Mine are plain. Thanks.