Hoping up my Chrysler

MightyMats

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I recently purchased my 67 Chrysler 300 and it is in fantastic condition. The only problem i have with the car is that the engine (440) could use a rebuild along with the 727.

I was planning on rebuilding the 440 this winter because it is leaking oil. I was thinking of doing the following.

Hardened valve seats
Port work
Duel 2" exhaust keeping the stock manifolds and add some quiet mufflers w/ X or H pipe
Holly 750 double pumper
Edlebrock duelplane intake
727 rebuild

I plan on keeping the entire short block exactly how it is. But my question is that am I going to ruin the drive-ability of my 300? I already tuned the edlebrock POS carb on it and adjusted the timing and that really helped wake it up. I also ditched the stock air cleaner (I still have it on the shelf) and threw a 4" K&N round filter on it and that really helped it breathe.

I daily drive this thing and by no means am i looking to turns this into a F body. But id like to be able to put my foot down on the on ramp. However I DO NOT want to be put back in my seat everytime i touch the pedal. Would a different torque converter help that?

Thanks guys
 
I think factory exhaust is 2-1/4"

I'll have to re-check the diameter of the outlet on the exhaust manifold. I measured the pipe by the transmission when I had the car up on the lift but I didn't unbolt anything to get an exact diameter because I didn't want to deal with snapping any old rusty bolts. Before i order the tubing ill pull the old exhaust off and take some measurements.
 
I would go for injection if it was my daily driver.

I do have a FAST EFI system laying around, however that is going on my Jeep. Although it is not much of a jeep anymore.

"Rudy" My CJ build - Jeep Wrangler Forum

Here it is. I am not sure if cross posting to other forums is frowned upon here so I apologize in advance if it is. On the third tab there are pictures of my 300.

Edit: I have no problems with it starting up. Yes it boggs if i absolutely mash my foot to the floor. But the other thing is that if it winds up it has problems shifting. It will get stuck in 2nd and won't want to go up to third until I let off the gas and the rpms drop.

I don't drive this like a racecar. 98% of the driving i do is just cruising. But i just have a problem where i cannot leave things alone. I need to tinker with things and just make them better.
 
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Nice job!!!

Like the color of that 300...….
attachment.jpg
 
HEI ign coil w/Pentronicx High Performance Ballast Resistor and Poly-Graphite Core non-resistor plugs gapped .45"

Vacuum Advance plumbed directly to manifold for faster response.

No thermostat.

Flex-fan

Taller rear tires for momentum advantage.

Exhaust dumps

Loose accessory belts

All-LED lighting
 
And I'm already looking forward to the "which muffler?" thread....

Haha! I think ill just go with two Flowmaster 70 Series Big Block 2 mufflers. I don't want to be able to hear the exhaust when im driving. Before I ripped my CJ7 apart it had the pipes coming out right next to the driver and passenger side door and man was it LOUD! It was cool at first and i thought i was the ******* ****, but I got over it real quick when I couldn't hear anything after my drive to and from work. If its not quiet enough I can address it but im hoping it will just give me the low quiet rumble im looking for.

Nice job!!!

Like the color of that 300...….
View attachment 206187

Thanks man, sorry i dont know how to attach photos here im still trying to figure it out. The paint was like sand paper before i clay bared it. I couldnt believe the difference that it made. Then I did a medium and light polish followed up with a wax. It took me an entire day but the paint shines now and looks brand new and feels it too! I determined that it was re-sprayed the original color at some point in its life but not recently. When i bought the car it still had an inspection sticker from 1993 on the windsheild.

It was garage kept by a doctor here in RI and the car has almost ZERO rust or rot. The only place is on the rear bumper where water accumulated under the taillights. It has quite a few dings on the body from other peoples doors but it is incredible condition for its age. 97k miles and I am the second owner at 26 yrs. I plan on cutting out, welding and blending in the rot on the rear bumper. Sending all the brass out to get re chromed. I just got the front seat re-upholstered yesterday. I want to fill all the dings in with body filler because i dont think ill be able to pull them out, then re-paint the car the original metallic blue or teal it was painted. Then im just going to drive it around everyday so everyone can see how much fun im having getting 9mpg
 
HEI ign coil w/Pentronicx High Performance Ballast Resistor and Poly-Graphite Core non-resistor plugs gapped .45"

Vacuum Advance plumbed directly to manifold for faster response.

No thermostat.

Flex-fan

Taller rear tires for momentum advantage.

Exhaust dumps

Loose accessory belts

All-LED lighting

I'll check out the plugs and HEI ign coil w/Pentronicx High Performance Ballast Resistor

I check the Vacuum advance

I actually had a overheating problem and replaced the thermostat and reduced the idle from 1300RPMS!!!! to about 775rpms. Now i no longer have those problems. Do you think eliminating the thermostat would help with performance?

I was thinking about removing the clutch driven fan only because there is no shroud on the car. I think removing it would net me a gain of 30HP

I'll replace the lights with LEDs when they burn out. The lights kind of suck right now but honestly, they get the job done and it not really a priority for me.
 
I'll check out the plugs and HEI ign coil w/Pentronicx High Performance Ballast Resistor

I check the Vacuum advance

I actually had a overheating problem and replaced the thermostat and reduced the idle from 1300RPMS!!!! to about 775rpms. Now i no longer have those problems. Do you think eliminating the thermostat would help with performance?

I was thinking about removing the clutch driven fan only because there is no shroud on the car. I think removing it would net me a gain of 30HP

I'll replace the lights with LEDs when they burn out. The lights kind of suck right now but honestly, they get the job done and it not really a priority for me.

Oh dear.

Please don't do anything I wrote.

ignore-me-just.jpg
 
HEI ign coil w/Pentronicx High Performance Ballast Resistor and Poly-Graphite Core non-resistor plugs gapped .45"

Vacuum Advance plumbed directly to manifold for faster response.

No thermostat.

Flex-fan

Taller rear tires for momentum advantage.

Exhaust dumps

Loose accessory belts

All-LED lighting
I love you, man.
 
I'll check out the plugs and HEI ign coil w/Pentronicx High Performance Ballast Resistor

I check the Vacuum advance

I actually had a overheating problem and replaced the thermostat and reduced the idle from 1300RPMS!!!! to about 775rpms. Now i no longer have those problems. Do you think eliminating the thermostat would help with performance?

I was thinking about removing the clutch driven fan only because there is no shroud on the car. I think removing it would net me a gain of 30HP

I'll replace the lights with LEDs when they burn out. The lights kind of suck right now but honestly, they get the job done and it not really a priority for me.

I think he was being facetious.

Your car looks really nice, a car that made it 50 years without being boogered up should IMO be preserved as much as possible, at least make mods that aren't going to hack it up.
It is, however your car to do with as you please, just a shame to hot rod something so nice. Like you said, it's not a race car.

I would run a 2 1/2 inch exhaust. Just to let it breathe a little.

The Edelbrock carbs aren't bad, watch a couple videos, easier to get dialed in than a Holley, again IMO, I run both, Edelbrocks are great for a stockish build.

Porting on the heads with stock manifolds sounds like a negligible gain.

If you are rebuilding the engine, get the compression ratio up to a true 9.5ish CR. The factory advertised CRs are low.

There are some really smart guys on this board, bump the cam up to a modern grind, and enjoy a 375 hp engine with gobs of torque.

Oh and welcome !!
 
Oh dear.

Please don't do anything I wrote.

View attachment 206192
Glad you followed-up with this Carmine. I was going to reply with :wtf:.

For a street car I would recommend the Edelbrock carb over a Holley. I put Eddys on both my Chryslers. The original carb on your car would've been a Carter AFB which is the same design.

Clean-up the ports only, do not enlarge them. It will kill low-end torque and for a street-driven C-body you want the low-end torque. Also you probably don't want a high-stall torque converter for the same reason. A 440 is all about torque. You don't want to have to rev the engine before the car gets moving or it won't be fun to drive.
 
I think he was being facetious.

Your car looks really nice, a car that made it 50 years without being boogered up should IMO be preserved as much as possible, at least make mods that aren't going to hack it up.
It is, however your car to do with as you please, just a shame to hot rod something so nice. Like you said, it's not a race car.

I would run a 2 1/2 inch exhaust. Just to let it breathe a little.

The Edelbrock carbs aren't bad, watch a couple videos, easier to get dialed in than a Holley, again IMO, I run both, Edelbrocks are great for a stockish build.

Porting on the heads with stock manifolds sounds like a negligible gain.

If you are rebuilding the engine, get the compression ratio up to a true 9.5ish CR. The factory advertised CRs are low.

There are some really smart guys on this board, bump the cam up to a modern grind, and enjoy a 375 hp engine with gobs of torque.

Oh and welcome !!

Thanks happy to be here

I take things with a grain of salt but i appreciate the heads up. I generally like forums because everyone is an expect and can tell you exactly what you need to do :p

I hope i dont booger it up. This will be no air ride car with a candy paint lace paint job with 7 coats of clear.

The reason why I want to port the heads is because my uncle owns an engine shop. He has the station, die grinders and carbides all set up. It wouldn't be much for me to do some port work after he puts new seats on it.

I read that the stock CR is around 10.25 to 10.5 but I will find out here in about 5 months.

I was thinking about a new boomstick for the engine but wasn't to sure. What do people run here? Do they just call up comp, tell them what they got and what they want and have them grind a cam?

Thanks
 
Glad you followed-up with this Carmine. I was going to reply with :wtf:.

For a street car I would recommend the Edelbrock carb over a Holley. I put Eddys on both my Chryslers. The original carb on your car would've been a Carter AFB which is the same design.

Clean-up the ports only, do not enlarge them. It will kill low-end torque and for a street-driven C-body you want the low-end torque. Also you probably don't want a high-stall torque converter for the same reason. A 440 is all about torque. You don't want to have to rev the engine before the car gets moving or it won't be fun to drive.

I have just heard good things about Hollys so i guess thats why i am leaning in that direction. It wouldnt be much for me to rebuild or clean the Edlebrock on it now.

Good point about the ports, i will definitely keep that in mind.

After some quick googling it seems that the stock converter would be somewhere around 23-2500. If it still has the stock converter. Ill have to do some research and see what will work for my particular application when I get to the point of replacing the converter.

This is what I'm doing with a 400.....

View attachment 206196

Holy SMOKES! I don't even want to know how much that belt system costs. Someone has deep pockets

Edit: that thing is super cool though. Specs on the engine?
 
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