might have bit off a bit more than i can chew

In regards to the removal of the undercoating... I am not ringing any alarm bells here, but get yourself a decent respirator with P100 HEPA filters. These coatings on our vintage cars can contain asbestos. And scrap it off misted with water. Sorry to be such a nervous nelly, but dealing asbestos is my daily bread.
 
so, after a bit of delay due to bad weather, the patch is 80% done. I have to say i am terrible at welding. But it did come out satisfactory so far...since this is not a show car resto effort.

here is the bad metal cut out:
upload_2018-1-9_12-39-17.png


I tried to avoid having to weld in around the floor dimples...to hard for me to fabricate those...

Here is the patches cut out and mostly fitted. I had a reproduction floor pan for the section with the curve but made the rear section from flat steel:
upload_2018-1-9_12-39-45.png


here is the first patch welded in (terribad welder)...note i burned thru a section the patch where it joined the existing rear section...thus requiring a patch to the patch :
upload_2018-1-9_12-41-24.png


second patch welded in + patch to the patch...80% complete at this point:
upload_2018-1-9_12-42-49.png


Still have to grind down the welds, primer it (did use weld thru on the 2nd, forgot on the first) and paint. Then will smear seam filler over all the welds to compete that part.

In testing the welds, i noticed a slight "give" in the center seam...and noticed in the cut out part there is was a curved brace section...see the pic below. I will either have to separate that piece from the old floorboard and weld it in...or am thinking about buying angle iron to weld in place.
upload_2018-1-9_12-45-45.png


so far so good. Depending on garage temps things will move along to be complete by end of January (sez hopefully).

Thanks for all the good advice! I should have practiced welding more before starting this!

Dave
 
Dave, that looks really good! Yes, you need to either re-attach the bracing or fab some angle for support. Did you re-attach the guide for the parking brake line? Might be easier to drill a few holes and weld it in from the top instead of from underneath. Use a small sheet metal screw to hold it in place. Not sure, but it looks like the ground clamp for the welder is on painted metal. You'll have a lot less splatter and burn-through with a better ground surface, like shiny, bare metal. Great job so far!
 
thanks, and did forget to mention i have to attached the parking brake guide...will do that soon. Thanks for the tip on the ground clamp, i was not aware that paint would make a diff to the splatter, which was pretty bad.

Good idea on the sheet metal screw, i was going to just hold it in place and tack weld it to the panel. i will attach it with a screw and go from there!

thanks!
 
Looks good! Not sure if this applies to you here but a tip for anyone welding especially with a 110 welder is try to minimize or better yet eliminate the use of Extension cords. Plugging the welder right in to the outlet will give better results particularly on the higher heat ranges.
 
As it looks like you lap welded, make sure you use the seam sealer underneath the car as well. You don't want water to get trapped in between the 2 pieces of metal (original floor and patch).

Also, I'd probably lay down a few more welds in that center section (green circled area). If people are putting foot pressure there, they may pop apart with that few.

upload_2018-1-9_12-42-49.png
 
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ok good ideas, i will add more welds down the center seam...and yes i am planning to use "generous" amounts of seam sealer over all seams. both sides!

I will also try to plug the welder into the wall outlet, might be possible. And will attach the ground clamp to the rear patch panel via the drain plug hole to reduce splatter.

great tips!
 
ok good ideas, i will add more welds down the center seam...and yes i am planning to use "generous" amounts of seam sealer over all seams. both sides!

I will also try to plug the welder into the wall outlet, might be possible. And will attach the ground clamp to the rear patch panel via the drain plug hole to reduce splatter.

great tips!
A little more practice first is always a nice thought... I never managed to do it... Once you're finished, there is nobody going to see it or know about it unless you tell them. I think you picked as good a location as any to "self teach"

Two thumbs up
:thumbsup: one for the work
:thumbsup: and one for the guts to try it...:thankyou:
 
Thanks for the thumbs's ups! I will post final pics in a couple of weeks...weather permitting. I'm not too keen on working in an I heated garage and need warmer weather for paint....:)
 
If your having trouble finding a area to put your ground clamp I will grind a small spot clean and tack weld a bolt to the clean spot, just hold the bolt in the jaws of the ground clamp, hold the clamp and tack the bolt.:)
 
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