Mopar 507 Stroker Build

[Michael Robinson]

The time has come and building is getting ready to start, I wanted to voice the plans too see if anyone recommends something else other than what im thinking or to give ideas on power, torque, and maybe similar build 1/4 times. The Car: 66 Plymouth Fury 3, 2 door, safe weight guess 4000 ish pounds, The Motor: 440 block bored .40 over, 507 stroker kit, CNC machined heads, Comp Cam XE285HL, Edelbrock Performer Intake, Holley Dominator 950-1150 (unsure on size just yet), TTi Headers down to 3 inch exhaust backed by flow master mufflers. The Trans: Built 727 Torque flight, 3500 RPM Stall, The Rear: will be on fully adjustable coil over shocks, factory leaf spring setup, 3:91's in the 8-3/4 Sure grip, The Tires: 275/XX/15's on the back, BFG Radial T/A's for now until I can find a slick for the track, and the fronts are smaller of course but I dont know the size of the top of my head. Feel free to speak your mind, negative or positive, or any recommended changes I should add to my plans! Thanks

 

[Slantsix]

Are you doing just a 1/4 machine? Or Street and strip car?

 

[Michael Robinson]

the car will mainly be a street car but will see some 1/4 and 1/8 time, it wont be driven like a race car all the time but I plan to hurt feelings if someone wants to run, im in the process up lowering the weight, ive been hunting for buckets up front, its getting an aluminum fuel cell, and im loosing the steel hood to build a fiber glass ram air hood to allow more air to the carb

 

[commando1]

Lotsa and lotsa and lotsa money ending with a "project car" for sale on Craigslist.
That's statistically speaking. I hope you beat the odds.

You MUST come to grips with the fact, though, it WILL only have a market value of 1/4th the money you put into it even if finished.

Plus you're destroying a beautiful car to achieve your dream. Prepare for oohs and ahhs from some and disdain by others.

Think hard. Thing long.

Now that I been acting like Mr. Gloomy, I would like you to make the car as a beautiful factory original with a street stroker discreetly hidden under the hood. Beefed up tranny, HD suspension, and a proper Dana should fill out the menu.

 

[Michael Robinson]

The car will never be sold EVER, it was purchased new by the family, with that being said I have the original numbers matching 383 big block and 727 trans and the original build sheet, I have looked at the cost and im perfectly fine with it, the hood will be paint matched and wont be gawky, the gauges are hidden under dash as are the switches for the fans, water pump, and electric fuel pump. unless you talk to me about the motor the car will retain almost all of its Stock look, the car already had a street bruiser 440 in it until I dropped a valve

 

[Slantsix]

The time has come and building is getting ready to start, I wanted to voice the plans too see if anyone recommends something else other than what im thinking or to give ideas on power, torque, and maybe similar build 1/4 times. The Car: 66 Plymouth Fury 3, 2 door, safe weight guess 4000 ish pounds, The Motor: 440 block bored .40 over, 507 stroker kit, CNC machined heads, Comp Cam XE285HL, Edelbrock Performer Intake, Holley Dominator 950-1150 (unsure on size just yet), TTi Headers down to 3 inch exhaust backed by flow master mufflers. The Trans: Built 727 Torque flight, 3500 RPM Stall, The Rear: will be on fully adjustable coil over shocks, factory leaf spring setup, 3:91's in the 8-3/4 Sure grip, The Tires: 275/XX/15's on the back, BFG Radial T/A's for now until I can find a slick for the track, and the fronts are smaller of course but I dont know the size of the top of my head. Feel free to speak your mind, negative or positive, or any recommended changes I should add to my plans! ThanksView attachment 115834

As street car i would say... 507 is nice. Aim for 10:1CR
Heads need more info.
Cam is ok.
Intake manifold is way too small. Get least Performer RPM or Torker. But if dont mind bolting hood scoop, then go Mopar M1etc single plane.
Carb is way too big, i would stay at 750-850 cfm range (maybe test 950cfm) also bolting Dominator to normal intake manifold is difficult. Or go EFI.
Headers ok.
Transmission, go A518 so u can drive it at highway also with that 3.91 rear end.

 

[Michael Robinson]

Compression is 10.5:1, heads are off of 440 Source ill get more info in a few, Intake is a performer rpm I was unaware there was just a regular performer, I may switch to a bigger cam, my original idea was a 950, I cant find any other headers that fit for this build! if you have any other ideas shoot them my way! I do not want to swap trans, my 727 is already built and its only driven on the highway on rare occasion

 

[saylor]

with a 3500 stall and 3.91 gears it will be fun to watch you in teh parking lot at cruise night

 

[Turboomni]

My advice would be anything you do to the car is reversible to stock. No wheel tubs etc. No stickers and keep it stock looking. No 10 inch super duper tach drilled into the dash. No 20" chrome wheels. I like your tire choice on the rear. I run the same size on my 69 Fury. No super loud exhaust. If and when my 440 wears out or breaks I would definitely rebuild it to over 500 cubes with a mild cam so it behaves like stock but has more torque. Speak softly and carry a Big stick is my advice, you have a beautiful car Now!

 

[Michael Robinson]

My advice would be anything you do to the car is reversible to stock. No wheel tubs etc. No stickers and keep it stock looking. No 10 inch super duper tach drilled into the dash. No 20" chrome wheels. I like your tire choice on the rear. I run the same size on my 69 Fury. No super loud exhaust. If and when my 440 wears out or breaks I would definitely rebuild it to over 500 cubes with a mild cam so it behaves like stock but has more torque. Speak softly and carry a Big stick is my advice, you have a beautiful car Now!

thank you sir! that is the goal, for everything to be reversible if needed, tach is actually held on to steering column in a nice fashion I will get a pic, the only other thing id like to do next season is shorten the rear end just slightly so that I can fill the whole wheel well

 

[Turboomni]

It sounds like you got your head screwed on correctly and I hope you share with us your progress. There is so much knowledge and experience here that I hope you will take advantage of. Any path you are taking with your car more than likely has been done before by guys here on this forum.
Welcome to the Forum and keep us posted [with picks] and pick these guys brains if you need help or advice!

 

[The Horvaths]

You definitely need to go single plane intake. (Victor or TFS Track Heat). A dual plane with that stall and that rear gear gives no benefit. I would go with a bigger roller cam. I use a cam very similar to the one you have chosen in my 383. If you go hydraulic roller, you need to have your lifter bores bushed. I went with solid roller. What rocker arms are you going with? Do you want 1.5 or 1.6 ratio? The 950-1,500 CFM carb size is fine. This is a performance engine, not for economy. I am going with FI Tech's 1200HP Power Adder option for my 505. The TTI headers are great. I have used a Hedman option, and can get the part # for you if you'd like, but they need to be carefully bashed to fit. Have you thought about oiling? You will want a windage tray for you *upgraded* pan. You will want a high volume oil pump too. Or maybe go external if you are feeling spry. You might also want to get a girdle kit. These blocks tend to get iffy past 700hp. If you do wind up getting a fiberglass hood made, please let us see it. I'd be interested in the same thing for my car.

You're going to need bigger tires

 

[Michael Robinson]

New intake added to my list, along with the girdle which i already planned on buying! I have a windage tray now along with a high volume pump, cam wise I did look into roller cams a bit and am still pitching the idea around but chances are ill wait on that, rockers are aluminum rollers off 440 source as well, the TTi's are meant to fit without bashing but the price reflects that, No fuel economy in mind WHAT SO EVER! as far as hoods there is a place that makes a stock fiberglass hood but will not cowl it or do any sort of ram air modification to it!

 

[65Fury440]

Gorgeous car!!!
The only things I can only add ..
Stock leaf springs will twist with the 275 stickies and break u joints.
The stock 5/16 fuel line will starve the motor in the big end.
Good luck!

 

[65Fury440]

PS if anyone has 2" header options, please share.

 

[Michael Robinson]

Gorgeous car!!!
The only things I can only add ..
Stock leaf springs will twist with the 275 stickies and break u joints.
The stock 5/16 fuel line will starve the motor in the big end.
Good luck!

ive heard that before about the springs, will aftermarkets be any better?? I run solid joints which do seem to hold up better, for the fuel line what size should I increase too? originally I wanted to use a fuel cell but pending other expenses I may just use the steel tank for another season

 

[Mr C]

The 65/66 Fury is the smallest/ lightest of the C bodies with dimensions/ weight that is very close to the 68-70 B bodies and represent maybe the cheapest muscle car build platforms that are left. According to factory specs, the 66 weighs @ 3700 lbs (68 B body weighs @3400 lbs).

Enjoy

 

[Michael Robinson]

The 65/66 Fury is the smallest/ lightest of the C bodies with dimensions/ weight that is very close to the 68-70 B bodies and represent maybe the cheapest muscle car build platforms that are left. According to factory specs, the 66 weighs @ 3700 lbs (68 B body weighs @3400 lbs).

Enjoy

thank you, when it gets going again ill drive it to the quarry and get an exact weight with me in it!

 

[moper]

A couple notes... I think it's a mistake to use the single plane. A good dual plane (that RPM you have) will give you torque, which is what you want. If you're using the Stealth heads - you should be ok with the CNC port and that camshaft. If you don't get them pro ported a larger cam is in order. Hydraulic rollers (conversion lifters) in most cases do not need the bores bushed but it's a lot of money for heavy roller stuff that a flat tappet can duplicate the power level of. If you go the conversion route mock up the cam and lifters and make sure the bores and lifters will work together before it all gets assembled. Solid rollers should have it done no matter what the cam size. If it were me I'd keep the compression at 9.8:1 tops. Use the dished pistons, and build it to have a piston to head distance of .035" wit the gasket. The transmission should get a bolt in sprag - and not the cheap ones. A Super Sprag is what I'd use in it. The C body is just too heavy IMO to work without it. I've broken the cases on them launching just with a 383 and 175hp nitrous system. On the rear - you can have coil overs, or leafs. Not both. Coil overs replace the load bearing leaf springs and put it on the shock. They require at least a 3link (think RMS Stret Linx system) and mounts welded to the axle housing. Leaf springs don't require anything. The Linx system is a lot lighter than the leafs and associated parts. But on your car probably overkill. The factory feed line should be replaced with a 3/8 unit including the tubing on the pickup. A Dominator is not what you want on a heavy street car. It also takes a larger carb flange on the intake manifold so make sure of what you're doing before you go ordering stuff. Look at the HP series carbs based on the Holley 4150 series double pumpers.

 

[The Horvaths]

I think it's a mistake to use the single plane. A good dual plane (that RPM you have) will give you torque, which is what you want.

I have to disagree with this. It is dyno proven that the Victor (single plane) will produce more torque than the Performer RPM (dual plane), just at a higher RPM level. (Also why I recommend a roller cam.) This car has a low rear end ratio and high stall, thus any low end torque you would gain from the dual plane would have diminished benefit.