Painting the intake manifold

swisherred

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I'm going to be using some left over HOK paint to paint my engine. I was wondering about the intake crossover though. Would that get hot enough to burn the paint off? Should I use a high temp clear on the intake or will the urethane hold up?
 
Just paint it.
If you are running a carb that has an electric choke block the heat crossover.
It is not needed with electric choke.
Otherwise spray multiple thin coats and let dry until tacky between coats.
Too thick will peel and too thin will burn off.
Hope this helps.
boab september 2017 007.JPG
 
The valley pan I have doesn't block the crossover. I have an electric choke carb but it currently has the thermal choke hooked up to it.
 
I believe his engine is assembled, so he won't be blocking the heat crossover (although that's the ticket for electric choke and a nicely painted manifold).

In my experience the non-blocked manifold will absolutely get hot enough to burn your paint. A million Mopars tend to indicate this. I would go real light in that area, as some browning/burning is preferable to the ugly burning/peeling that cbarge mentioned above.

Or pull the manifold and put in blockoff gaskets!
 
I have yet to install the manifold. Have to paint the bottom of it first. The pan is brand new...can I modify it with something to block it off? Will that affect my choke?
 
What I did was cut and fabricate two block off plates from the old turkey pan (intake gasket)
I put down the new turkey pan and test fit the pieces till they fit just inside the crush dimples.
Using hi-temp exhaust silicone gasket maker In put the pieces in place and install the intake.

BTW no real need to paint the bottom of intake--nobody sees it.
What they do see is parts of the turkey pan,so paint it too but not over the ports.
Hope this helps.
boab september 2017 001.JPG
 
Maybe I should just paint the intake a high temp paint....blocking it off might affect atomization of the fuel....I'm not running dual exhaust or the heat riser....it's frozen in place.
 
I have yet to install the manifold. Have to paint the bottom of it first. The pan is brand new...can I modify it with something to block it off? Will that affect my choke?

Oh, manifold off? You're in great shape, then. The Fel Pro item is the way to go, but cbarge has a good Plan B for ya.

It will affect your manual choke, which is the whole idea of the crossover system. So go with your electric choke. I love the one on my Street Demon.
 
Frozen open....I don't have the electric choke. It was removed by the PO....haven't decided if I needed to get it or not. The manual works fine...have no comparison though as I've never had an electric choke.
 
I advise against blocking the heat crossover. It doesn’t matter your type of choke, or no choke at all. Your engine needs that heat in the intake to atomize the fuel in cool weather. You will create a stumble. I did this on a street car I was drag racing. When outside temps were below mid 50’s the drivability was affected. Could not pull out in traffic because it would stumble. Have to drive around for 20 minutes before the engine runs properly. It didn’t make the car run any faster either. It was a losing deal. Tried several different carburetors with similar results. Richer didn’t help the running just made the plugs black.

I realize this modification is weather dependent, so plan accoedingly.
 
I intend to drive it during cold weather at times....that was what I was worried about. I'd rather have the chance of burnt paint than driveability issues.
 
Pretty much every mopar out there with a stock cast manifold will eventually burn the paint off the crossover, just a sign of normal use. Previous posts are correct about needing some heat in colder weather. Put it together and forget about it.

Dave
 
This Florida boy will have to capitulate on this. I'm blocked with my Performer 440, and the 625 cfm Demon works well in my weather. For you, stay with the heat, enjoy a little burnt paint.

Anyone watching TPC today? It's FREEZING down here!
 
Burnt intake paint and rusty exhaust manifolds are a normal part of the equation, not a big deal. Silver grey painted exhaust manifolds are just wrong.
 
Anything past "natural" on the exhaust manifolds just doesn't look right to me, sorry. Even the "cast blast" paint it too dark, by observation. Any paint on the exhaust manifold would cook off, anyway, over time.

One time, a Pontiac magazine article mentioned that painting the exhaust crossover area with high-heat paint BEFORE the final engine color was applied would make the normal paint last longer before it discolored from heat. Of course, you could paint the intake "dull aluminum" to mimic an aftermarket aluminum intake. Can probably find some high-heat aluminum color header paint for the undercoat paint layer?

As noted, the exhaust heat was there long prior to electric chokes. General intake manifold temp is needed for good cooler weather warmup and drivability.

When I rebuilt the engine on my '77 Camaro, I put the GM '86 Corvette factory aluminum heads on it. That year 'vette was TPI, so no heat crossover was in those heads. Even so, with the aluminum intake and elec choke OEM replacement 9895 Holley, initial cold weather starts were "different" than with the cast iron heads, same aluminum intake, and carb. A bit more "cold natured", as they say. But the NGK Iridiums helped a bit. I expect with a cast iron intake, it'd take longer before things worked right, in our prior N Central TX climate.

As the B/RB engine has no other heat coming into it, only way the intake can receive heat is directly from the attachment to the cylinder heads and the exhaust crossover passage. Regardless of the type of choke on the carburetor. Until the thermostat opens and warmer air comes through the radiator and onto the intake manifold . . . the intake manifold will remain unheated by other means, unless there is some exhaust heat via the crossover.

Just some thoughts and observations,
CBODY67
 
The sand blasting,fine sanding and application of the Eastwood exhaust manifold paint was not done in vain.
I am very well aware that eventually my HP exhaust manifolds will go back to "aux natural".
They had not yet started to turn but I am enjoying my brand new 51 year old car for now as i hit the show circuit this summer.
My master cylinder started to flash already,but I don't care.having a blast with the car.
boab september 2017 010.JPG

boab 2018 006.JPG
 
My master cylinder started to flash already,but I don't care.having a blast with the car.

A pal with a RR had someone do a "cast iron ceramic" finish to his logs, and 3 years later it's fantastic. I like that look you have there. Hard work, good results.

Your underhood looks lovely, with the exception of the sticker on the front of the battery. That's a pet peeve of mine, particularly an ugly white Interstate with a green top. Gag! That, and zip ties and modern crimp connectors. That stuff is fine out of sight, or course, but to me a zip = laziness. Zips and crimps belong out of sight under the dash, etc. I don't spy any zips under your hood. Very tidy!
 
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