Plug n play headlight harness upgrade
- Thread starter cbarge
- Start date
cbarge
World Famous Barge in a Budget
They are halogens. Plug and play.
LED'S depending on manufacturer, they do not fit through the factory headlamp buckets.
Both HID and KED are bright,but do not throw the light like good halogens.
Aiming the headlights after the conversion makes a huge difference,too.
67_300_Convertible
Member
I hate to be stupid, but is there a way to contact @crackedback to inquire about one of his headlight relay harness kits without registering on FBBO?
73Coupe
Senior Member
Couldn't have expressed myself any better. Of course, excepting a couple companies, the rest of the new stuff all gets excreted by asiatic crapitalists. Worst of all though are the BUYERS! You're SOOO RIGHT that these FOOLS don't know the 1st thing about how to aim and align their headlights, and will never be competent to do so, as this involves geometry and the ability to read a yard stick. So, they careen around the roads at night, blasting electronic tom-toms while toking up their Primo-Blunts and swilling Buttwiper Ultra Blite soda-beer, and blinding all oncomers or even folk in front of them via rear view mirrors.
Ah, but lasers are cheap.......
As an aside, while in commute traffic in San Jose a month ago, a Prius passed me on the left in the #1 lane with a roof mounted light bar, facing rear. It was blasting the Dodge truck (with contractor bed, and mirrors out) that was about 6 inches from its rear bumper, and obviously pissed off. The light bar then switched to flashing yellow as the truck struggled to overtake the little Toyota, threatening to merge into vehicles on the right. Since most Prius cars often don't even go the speed limit, this is probably a daily occurrence that the owner gets off on...
From a older FBBO post, contains an email address.
"If anyone is trying to get in touch with @crackedback and can't, you can email Rob at robule1@yahoo.com
He seems like a great guy and thoroughly explained his relay systems to me, how they work and the install. I should be receiving mine today. Looking forward to installing them."
Dim by how much? If it's just really slight I wouldn't be too concerned but if more than that it could be a sign of a problem with the charging system. Could be as simple as bad grounds, to something bigger like a bad battery or alternator
1970FuryConv
Old Man with a Hat
If you have a 35 amp alternator and older wiring, you may be losing current as you decrease rpm.
I wonder if that's why my radio restarts itself when I turn on my high beams either via the foot switch or the push button hold switch I installed...voltage drop might be too high and the alternator just can't keep up. I only tested it while the vehicle was stationary though, not while the engine was at higher RPMs.
1970FuryConv
Old Man with a Hat
I have not heard of a radio restarting itself. @Zymurgy is usually good with radio problems.
Testing the lighting/radio issue at higher rpm is a good idea.
Also, if you still have a mechanical voltage regulator, I would consider conversion to electronic.
@halifaxhops could help with that.
It's an aftermarket head unit I bolted under the dash (Continental TR7412UB-OR). Both the instrument cluster and firewall voltage regulators have been replaced with solid state units.
The radio just acts as if it suddenly lost power. If I leave the high beams on the radio comes back on fine. It only loses power when turning on the high beams.
And come to think of it, the little cigarette lighter USB adapter with its built-in voltmeter will also shut off as if it suddenly lost power too, immediately turning back on.
I'm not too sure whether it's the wiring though - I've replaced the 12 gauge wires going between the battery, ammeter studs and alternator output stud with nice big fat fresh 10 gauge wires (with 14 gauge fusible link at battery terminal). Would the factory wiring between the ammeter, fuse box and accessories still be a problem? I feel like they'd hardly ever see too much current so they'd be more likely to last longer.
The radio just acts as if it suddenly lost power. If I leave the high beams on the radio comes back on fine. It only loses power when turning on the high beams.
And come to think of it, the little cigarette lighter USB adapter with its built-in voltmeter will also shut off as if it suddenly lost power too, immediately turning back on.
I'm not too sure whether it's the wiring though - I've replaced the 12 gauge wires going between the battery, ammeter studs and alternator output stud with nice big fat fresh 10 gauge wires (with 14 gauge fusible link at battery terminal). Would the factory wiring between the ammeter, fuse box and accessories still be a problem? I feel like they'd hardly ever see too much current so they'd be more likely to last longer.
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More towards the slight side but noticeable. Also the turn signals make it go dimmer and brighter slightly. I was sure the relays are supposed to eliminate that
How can I tell what alt I have?
By the part number not the casting number. It is stamped on the side under the output lug.
Something is clearly wrong. Fixing other people's attempt on electrical installations can be a headache. I would look for a good description for the installation of relays for the headlights and start over. I'll see if I can find mine. They were excellent. Don't just remove them they are a very important upgrade but only when they are installed correctly.
You keep mentioning the dimmer switch. Was only one relay installed for the low beams and no relay for high beams? You should have two relay’s, one for low beam and one for high beam. (sorry if I didn’t read far enough back if this was already covered) Also dimmer switches after years of full light power running through them are a melting point, so check the condition of your dimmer switch, they are fairly cheap to replace (at least they used to be. I have a revised schematic for my 68 that shows the proper relay circuit somewhere. It may even be posted towards the beginning of this thread.
Here’s the schematic for the head light relay’s, these may be a little different if you have headlight doors.
68 Dodge Polara
I used the factory color and codes for my wiring and labels on the schematic.
L4 is the circuit. 16V* is 16 gauge Violet wire with tracer.
See color code on schematic.
68 Dodge Polara
I used the factory color and codes for my wiring and labels on the schematic.
L4 is the circuit. 16V* is 16 gauge Violet wire with tracer.
See color code on schematic.
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I bought a few of these from Digikey in the past year with the intent on using it for headlights, maybe also the power seat unit. Was about $5 each. Haven't actually mounted them yet. The integrated automotive-style fuse is what I think is useful here. Can use any heavy-gauge wire you want and not need to mess around with external fuses or fuse-links.
Don't draw your relay secondary power from the battery or starter relay if still running the factory dash mounted ammeter, should draw that power from the alternator directly.
crackedback
New Member
Not over here much. Got a bit sick and not as spry as before. Things move a lot slower. LOL
Yes I still make the kits and would be more than happy to build them for the C body crew. Have many happy folks that have installed my kit.
I don't seem to get any notifications regarding DM's or people using the @ deal.
Yes I still make the kits and would be more than happy to build them for the C body crew. Have many happy folks that have installed my kit.
I don't seem to get any notifications regarding DM's or people using the @ deal.
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