Pushbutton trans issues?

jake

Senior Member
Joined
Oct 23, 2012
Messages
1,537
Reaction score
1,079
Location
wisconsin
Before I tear my transmission out, here is my problem. I have forward gears, no reverse, but here is the kicker, in neutral, I can roll forward but it will not roll backward. I have gone through the factory manual and adjusted the cable, etc.... What am I missing? Any help would be appreciated? Thanks in advance. Jake
 
Do you have all forward gears or just moves forward? Other than that sounds like broken low/ reverse band with one half rolling under when you try to roll backwards.
 
I know on my '59 Imperial it was very fine line inbetween the gears. I would suggest the car be put on a hoist or jack stands in the back leaving the rear tires off the ground. Manualy put the car in each gear working with the person inside the car. Loosen the retaining cable nut and put it into each gear by hand. That will ensure you have a properly working trans then adjust the cable to reflect each gear.
 
A word of advise get a transmission over haul kit for the car. I believe Andy Bernbaum has this . Then take it to a shop and have it overhauled
 
drop the pan and see if there is anything broken.
Basically what he said. The low/reverse servo is the rear most one, I am not sure how much you will be able to see the band is kind of buried with linkage and such and most likely the break is up inside the case not really visible. The bad news is if it is broken the trans has to come out and apart. I would pull the pan you may get lucky and the low reverse servo piston may be out of whack, another member here had a similar problem but I think he has a problem in second as well. Worth pulling the pan and have a look.
I don't have any info on cable adjustments I have never had one with push buttons.
 
The reverse band on the '62 New Yorker I owned broke. Car ran great forward. I would think you have a problem there.
 
Well I jacked up the car today and drop the tranny pan. Everything looks good. I adjusted the shift cable with neutral button and could visually line it up with the nuetral safety switch. I can spin the wheels forward in neutral but still cannot turn them in reverse. Its as if something is binding. Is it possible that the sure grip is screwing up in the rearend. This is killing me.
 
While the pan is off try loosening the low/reverse band adjustment and see if they will turn both ways. If you hear some noise (metalic) that might be your band parts moving around.
 
14771549818181929580440.jpg
1477155129947459566171.jpg
IMG_20161022_125356975.jpg

Here are some pictures of you parts in question top is how the anchor extends up into the case. Second is the band and anchor with all the other internals removed (stolen by me) last is with vavle body in place showing what it covers up. The low reverse is the one inside the trans.
 
While the pan is off try loosening the low/reverse band adjustment and see if they will turn both ways. If you hear some noise (metalic) that might be your band parts moving around.
I just tightened the band to 72 inch pounds and turned out the bolt 3 full turns like the manual says. Everything seems smooth. There is alittle side to side play but no metallic sound. I thought that the reverse band and low(1st) gear somehow worked together?
 
Is it possible that the sure grip is screwing up in the rearend. This is killing me.

To test that theory would be very simple. Remove the drive-shaft at the rear u-joint (4 small bolts), lower it out of the way and turn the wheels. If it all moves free you've eliminated that as a possibility.
 
To test that theory would be very simple. Remove the drive-shaft at the rear u-joint (4 small bolts), lower it out of the way and turn the wheels. If it all moves free you've eliminated that as a possibility.
Just finished doing that. When disconnected the wheels spin no problem, forward and back. Question, what would happen if the starter does not disengage? It has a clutch to spin one way correct? I am reaching here.
 
With no trans mission fluid or pressures the transmission is effectively in neutral.
The reverse band must engage to be in or operate in reverse.
The same band also does low gear (1st) when you put the trans into 1 or low, with the button in your case. The band engagement is what provides the engine braking you feel when decelerating in low gear.
When it is in drive this band does not engage for low gear (breakaway I think they call it) this is where the one way clutch/ overrunning clutch/ sprag comes into play, it makes sure you go forward in first gear in drive. This is done for quicker shifts to second and so the band does not have to grab Everytime it downshifts into first. The sprag may be where your problem lies but there is no way to check it short of pulling trans apart. Usually reverse will work if the sprag is damaged. The next steps I'm afraid are to pull the trans and take it apart or at the least pull the valve body and see if you can get a better look at the band.
 
Last edited:
To test that theory would be very simple. Remove the drive-shaft at the rear u-joint (4 small bolts), lower it out of the way and turn the wheels. If it all moves free you've eliminated that as a possibility.
Just finished doing that. When disconnected the wheels spin no problem, forward and back. Question, what would happen if the starter is not disenging
 
this is off topic , but i'm going to rebuild a couple of cable shifter type cases . and was woundering if its possible to put the 71 type front pump n input and front drum set up with the long bushing in the early case .
 
Just finished doing that. When disconnected the wheels spin no problem, forward and back. Question, what would happen if the starter is not disenging
The sprag/overrunning clutch is the rollers and springs you can see in top photo, you will not be able to see them if you pull you valve body. The rollers get wedged and stuck effectively locking the clutch. This creates a dangerous situation with the front drum spinning it at 2.2 times (reverse ratio) engine rpm and the stock ones usually come apart (explode) above 9,000 rpm which is about 42-4300 engine rpm. It usually takes some abuse to break one burnouts in water, ice, leaves, then a sudden catch in traction or dry pavement.
 
this is off topic , but i'm going to rebuild a couple of cable shifter type cases . and was woundering if its possible to put the 71 type front pump n input and front drum set up with the long bushing in the early case .
I'm pretty sure it works fine but you need to keep all the internals from 71, the whole pump and housing and input shaft the converter drive and input spline count is different (allows the use of more available 67 up converter. I would leave the rear section low/band an planetary gear and also if it has rear gov pump.
 
Back
Top