Rebuilding front suspension

70Tom

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So I'm in the process of tearing stuff down on the 70 SF to get it ready for paint. I have both front wheel wells out to get plaster and powder coated. As you know, you get a good look at stuff with them out.

And looking at it I'm now contemplating buying a kit rebuilding the front suspension. The bushings are all dry rotted, the tie rod covers are rotted and falling off. I think it's time.

Main question is, I'm used to coil springs. What do I have to worry about when I start undoing stuff? I wouldn't want anything flying off and killing me (you know, like a coil spring...).

Also open to recommendations and suggestions. I'll be going with a stock kit for this.
 
Once you back the torsion bar bolt out you are good to go, just do that first (with wheels off).

Tip: Hang your shocks in the frame before you attach the upper ball joint.


Alan
 
Factory service manual will really come in handy.
 
I usually loosen all the nuts on the taper joints and with the suspension hanging UCA on bumper get the upper, lower, and at least the outer tie rod all loose. Then unwind the T bar adjuster and then remove the previously mentioned taper joint nuts all the way. The rest is nuts and bolts. Do Not clamp anything with teeth on the T bar to remove it, that will make it fail eventually. Easiest way to get T bar out if you do not have a puller and removing the suspension anyway is remove pivot nut and tension rod nut and pry LCA rearward, and don't forget to remove clip at rear T bar socket.
 
Its all fairly simple but time consuming and thats without refinishing stuff
 
so in summary:

1.) find commandos list of front end components
2.) call P-S-T and order everything and tell them we sent ya
3.) do it all. both sides. don't skimp. yes all of it. soup to nuts.
4.) if you have the tools/skills/time you can do the LCA bushings. or take it to a shop vat/clean/paint the arms and then to press in the bushes.
5.) you don't have to take the torsion bars all the way out, just back from out of the LCA. unless you want to
6.) buy a torsion bar removal tool on fleabay - worth the $25 or whatever it was
7.) if you do remove the tbars, don't mix up L and R if you plan on reusing this same set of tbars
someone else can do 8, 9, and 10,

that's all I got.

:)

try not to die -

- saylor
 
I am not sold on PST only from one experience. The front end that I did on one of my 71's did not hold up well with miles on it. I think the PST parts may piddle out faster than others
 
I am not sold on PST only from one experience. The front end that I did on one of my 71's did not hold up well with miles on it. I think the PST parts may piddle out faster than others
Does anyone else make kits or simply source it together through Rock Auto or a similar place? Any particular brand?
 
Dont take my word alone for it Tom, just one experience I thought id share. Just Suspension also sells them.
I personally will use brand name parts New and NOS when doing my front ends. I already have the six NOS lower ball joints .....I am considering the PST Rear Sway bar from good reviews ....
 
I have never been a fan of kits for any type of project for a multitude of reasons. Too long to list.
If you don't know what you need, research, learn, and research some more until you do.
That way you can pick, choose, and match the single best component for every part of the overall job.
Sit down with the Parts Book in front of you and start a list.
 
Dont take my word alone for it Tom, just one experience I thought id share. Just Suspension also sells them.
I personally will use brand name parts New and NOS when doing my front ends. I already have the six NOS lower ball joints .....I am considering the PST Rear Sway bar from good reviews ....
I bought the rear sway bar for my '70 from PST. It is the right size but there's no way it would mount with my dual exhaust.

I agree with your comments about PST, but I also add that their kits are incomplete; they do not provide the inner tie-rod ends nor the sleeves. Just Suspension does, but the last time I checked you have to order everything individually as they no longer offered a complete kit. (Their kit was more expensive that PST but it offered everything.) Also, if you don't have them, you will want the large sockets to remove your upper ball joints.
 
My local shop looks for Moog stuff first. They found everything needed to redo the front end of the Monaco except lower ball joints. PST & others have lower ball joints installed in the knuckle arms.
 
I bought the rear sway bar for my '70 from PST. It is the right size but there's no way it would mount with my dual exhaust.

I agree with your comments about PST, but I also add that their kits are incomplete; they do not provide the inner tie-rod ends nor the sleeves. Just Suspension does, but the last time I checked you have to order everything individually as they no longer offered a complete kit. (Their kit was more expensive that PST but it offered everything.) Also, if you don't have them, you will want the large sockets to remove your upper ball joints.


someone here did a nice write up with pictures of installation ....
 
When I did mine about 9 years ago I was able to get all Moog or TRW parts. It cost a little more but I knew what I had. I rebuilt the entire front end and the Fury rode like it did when it was new. Well worth the extra cash.
 
TRW is now out of business -- and MOOG has Obsoleted some of these items --- so it IS NOT 9 years ago any more --
and I can still hook you up with 100 % USA made items.............
(P.S. -- you have to call, though.....) Yours, Craig...................
 
TRW is now out of business -- and MOOG has Obsoleted some of these items --- so it IS NOT 9 years ago any more --
and I can still hook you up with 100 % USA made items.............
(P.S. -- you have to call, though.....) Yours, Craig...................
I will vouch for Craig. I bought my lower ball joints from him & a few other odds & ends at Carlisle or the Mopar Nationals over the years. Odds are he will have what you need & if you leave a message he calls back. He is also a fan of our C bodies.
 
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