Store bought or homemade tape for timing?

You say there is a hissing sound coming from somewhere. You should check your power brake booster. When the internal diaphragm gets old, it tends to crack and deteriorate. That could be the source of your vacuum leak. I had to replace both of the boosters in my two 66 300s for that reason. NAPA is your friend. . .
It was freshly rebuilt less than 1 mile ago.. rock solid.
 
IMG_4898.jpg
Thanks a million everyone for thinking and contributing.

Here's where I'm at right this second. Impatient & frustrated yes. Stupid and willing to make hasty decisions? No. Willing and able, determined, motivated and proactive? YES.

Save an internal problem of low compression, or some little electrical wiring bugger at the coil.. we've essentially eliminated everything but the carburetor. I can do one of three things to troubleshoot that.

1. Take it to my local mechanic and have him run the gamut of diagnostics. The only way he's gonna find the carburetor at fault is by bolting on another proven carburetor, right?
So he buys a new edelbrock 1405 and installs it.. and tunes it.. and she runs like a dream; in the end 3-4 weeks later I have a shiny new bill of at least $1,000.
(plus the front end alignment he was originally slated to do= $150).

2. I find a proven carburetor myself right now, whether it be a 1405 new in box for $300. or another Carter 4299s in good condition (ebay or forum members shelf? I just saw a good one on ebay for $50, then find a "better" shop to rebuild that?)
I then install the new carb myself and get an answer. Mind you, an edelbrock would only be temporary anyway just to confirm a carb problem.. installing a working 4299s would immediately be addressed at this point.

3. Remove the original 4299s and either a) send it back to the original rebuilder to go through it and if possible, make it right. or b) send it to a different guy to rebuild correctly.. hopefully one who easily finds what fuckery lies within. Both of these options possible only if rebuilder a) hasn't already permanently screwed it up.

I have already figured out and done the work myself on several systems here over the last two years. I replaced the fuel tank, fuel lines, fuel pump, fuel filter, and reinstalled the carb right after the rebuild.. yes, all by myself. I rebuilt the master cylinder(granted the cylinder was sleeved by a machine shop, but the new pistons, valves, brass seats, springs, etc. were done by me.) Plus many other things.

So why shouldn't I get a working carb, (max $300 for new), install it myself within an hour or two, and have my answer right there.. all in one day, from store to car???
CARTER CARB> 4299s FITS 1967 MOPAR 383 AT | eBay
 
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View attachment 137585 Thanks a million everyone for thinking and contributing.

Here's where I'm at right this second. Impatient & frustrated yes. Stupid and willing to make hasty decisions? No.

Save an internal problem of low compression, or some little electrical wiring bugger at the coil.. we've essentially eliminated everything but the carburetor. I can do one of three things to troubleshoot that.

1. Take it to my local mechanic and have him run the gamut of diagnostics. The only way he's gonna find the carburetor at fault is by bolting on another proven carburetor, right?
So he buys a new edelbrock 1405 and installs it.. and tunes it.. and she runs like a dream; in the end 3-4 weeks later I have a shiny new bill of at least $1,000.
(plus the front end alignment he was originally slated to do= $150).

2. I find a proven carburetor myself right now, whether it be a 1405 new in box for $300. or another Carter 4299s in good condition (ebay or forum members shelf? I just saw a good one on ebay for $50, then find a "better" shop to rebuild that?)
I then install the new carb myself and get an answer.

3. Remove the original 4299s and either a) send it back to the original rebuilder to go through it and if possible, make it right. or b) send it to a different, more reputable guy to rebuild correctly.. hopefully one who easily finds what fuckery lies within. Both of these options possible only if rebuilder a) hasn't already permanently screwed it up.

I have already figured out and done the work myself on several systems here over the last two years. I replaced the fuel tank, fuel lines, fuel pump, fuel filter, and reinstalled the carb right after the rebuild.. yes, all by myself. I rebuilt the master cylinder(granted the cylinder was sleeved by a machine shop, but the new pistons, valves, brass seats, springs, etc. were done by me.)

So why shouldn't I get a working carb, (max $300 for new), install it myself within an hour or two, and have my answer right there.. all in one day, from store to car???
CARTER CARB> 4299s FITS 1967 MOPAR 383 AT | eBay

I'll say only this: if you feel confident that it's carb related, go with your gut and get a shiny new carb. I've done the same on a couple of rides and I was absolutely correct in doing so. Had me on the road in a matter of hours as opposed to weeks of heartache.
Then take your Carter, drain it, stuff it in the box and put it on the shelf for a time when you want to deal with it.
 
Guys, I know EVERYONE has good intentions, and wants to see this car running as much as I do, but PLEASE STOP pulling this guy in twenty different directions.
We all have some knowledge of what we are doing, Alex does not.
The car has to be looked at by someone WITH the knowledge to diagnose it correctly, and be able to document it. If you want to help, grab your tools and go over and look at the car.
C'mon over!
 
I just spoke with the owner of the shop that rebuilt my carburetor last October.
Spoke for a few and I explained everything to him.
He agreed that something is causing it to lean out. He first suggested it might be that the original factory jets (.068) might be the cause, with bad pump gas and all.. said larger jets might solve issues. I told him no, that the carb did not have this/these problems before his rebuild. Yes, larger jets might be a good idea for performance enhancement of a 383, but not the cure for what ails her now.
He's being very good about it and expressed that they take pride in their work and how they always stand behind it 100%, and that he will send me a UPS shipping label today, so I can ship it back to him. They will carefully go through it again and do what needs to be done(if anything), before shipping it back to me.. all at his expense.

I told him that in the meantime, I will bolt on a proven carburetor and see what happens.. and let him know. He'll let me know. You'll know, I'll know. We all will know.

So now I've got to decide what to get as a test carb, that easily bolts on to my manifold, and hooks up to linkage, divorced choke, etc..
 
I just spoke with the owner of the shop that rebuilt my carburetor last October.
Spoke for a few and I explained everything to him.
He agreed that something is causing it to lean out. He first suggested it might be that the original factory jets (.068) might be the cause, with bad pump gas and all.. said larger jets might solve issues. I told him no, that the carb did not have this/these problems before his rebuild. Yes, larger jets might be a good idea for performance enhancement of a 383, but not the cure for what ails her now.
He's being very good about it and expressed that they take pride in their work and how they always stand behind it 100%, and that he will send me a UPS shipping label today, so I can ship it back to him. They will carefully go through it again and do what needs to be done(if anything), before shipping it back to me.. all at his expense.

I told him that in the meantime, I will bolt on a proven carburetor and see what happens.. and let him know. He'll let me know. You'll know, I'll know. We all will know.

So now I've got to decide what to get as a test carb, that easily bolts on to my manifold, and hooks up to linkage, divorced choke, etc..

Most frequently recommended replacement carb is the Edelbrock 1406, along with the required linkage kit.
 
Most frequently recommended replacement carb is the Edelbrock 1406, along with the required linkage kit.
Only issue your going to run into with the Eddy 1406 and linkage kit is how you run your choke.
With an eddy its either manual or electric. Personally, I'd just go the electric route. Its an easy wiring job and you can just keep all your original choke components with your carter for future use.
 
Only issue your going to run into with the Eddy 1406 and linkage kit is how you run your choke.
With an eddy its either manual or electric. Personally, I'd just go the electric route. Its an easy wiring job and you can just keep all your original choke components with your carter for future use.
Like explained here at 25:35?
 
I agree, so what should we talk about???
I was about to mention how nice the weather is, but...
I just spoke with the owner of the shop that rebuilt my carburetor last October.
Spoke for a few and I explained everything to him.
He agreed that something is causing it to lean out. He first suggested it might be that the original factory jets (.068) might be the cause, with bad pump gas and all.. said larger jets might solve issues. I told him no, that the carb did not have this/these problems before his rebuild. Yes, larger jets might be a good idea for performance enhancement of a 383, but not the cure for what ails her now.
He's being very good about it and expressed that they take pride in their work and how they always stand behind it 100%, and that he will send me a UPS shipping label today, so I can ship it back to him. They will carefully go through it again and do what needs to be done(if anything), before shipping it back to me.. all at his expense.

I told him that in the meantime, I will bolt on a proven carburetor and see what happens.. and let him know. He'll let me know. You'll know, I'll know. We all will know.

So now I've got to decide what to get as a test carb, that easily bolts on to my manifold, and hooks up to linkage, divorced choke, etc..

We're back to buying parts again... Sorry Alex. Wait until the carb returns, then decide to buy one if you feel the need. Or if you get a nice new $1406$... think about what you will do with it after this has been resolved.

And before the race begins... DIBS on the half priced barely used carb :poke::lol:

If you're really in need, after the other efforts, I promise to print and eat this post.
 
Easy for you to say, you can drive your cars all year round.:poke:
 
I am scheduling to have her flatbedded to a local shop within the next two weeks. Already talked to the shop owner. A good, fair & honest shop.
that's the decision i'll back the strongest. the right guy's gonna get in this car, turn the key, put it gear and do more good diaging in first fifteen seconds than was done with a combined 8hrs of phone time. i wish it could be me but it's just not gonna be. it's just too far. also, i agree with matt. this is a forum for discussing car issues. alex is informed and knows where he's going, but there are plenty of others reading this who may be interested in alternate solutions.
 
I was about to mention how nice the weather is, but...


We're back to buying parts again... Sorry Alex. Wait until the carb returns, then decide to buy one if you feel the need. Or if you get a nice new $1406$... think about what you will do with it after this has been resolved.

And before the race begins... DIBS on the half priced barely used carb :poke::lol:

If you're really in need, after the other efforts, I promise to print and eat this post.

Ok sure! Or maybe, just maybe.. you could buy the 1406 brand new and sell it to me at cost. Then, when I've finished "barely using it", I'll sell it back to you at twice the price I paid.. Fun!!

Seriously, You get first DIBS if I go that way.
 
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Anyone got a good carb guy they can recommend.. one who is good at rebuilding carbs like mine?

or perhaps I should give it a go.

I've decided to get this one:
CARTER CARB> 4299s FITS 1967 MOPAR 383 AT
It's $50 dollars and can be cleaned up and/or rebuilt for less than a new edelbrock, and it's the exact stock carb model I want. It will fit right on immediately.

Even if my mechanic takes the car during the next week or two, he's gonna need to have one carburetor in working order to proceed. Why not have two ready. So in the meantime, my original carb shop gets my factory model done(again).. and I get this $50 model done. If the car falters in the exact same way with the $50 unit on her, then I know the issue is elsewhere.

Worst case is I'll have two stock 4299s models. Best case is they both run perfectly.
And I can jet each one differently for easy changeouts.
 
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Never used them myself, but I have always heard good things about Harms. A little pricey, but they run them on a mule engine before sending them back.

Services
 
Never used them myself, but I have always heard good things about Harms. A little pricey, but they run them on a mule engine before sending them back.

Services
Thanks John,
I just called and spoke to the owner Scott Smith, and I'm considering sending him the $50 carb from ebay once the auction is won(23 hours) and I take a look at it. He rebuilds them all himself, and tests them on a mule engine like you said.. guarantees the work.. and has a plater that finishes them like new with proper factory methods. I don't need a piece of jewelry, but he does them all the same no matter. Turn around is about 4-6 weeks right now *sigh* ... but this might be the way to go. I told him about both carbs and he prefers to rebuild the one from ebay. Though he'll guarantee whichever one I send. I don't blame him. Also just spoke to ebay seller of the $50 unit who said he pulled it from a car that was towed to the auto wrecker 30 years ago, shelved it, and has not used it or put it on any other car. It looks to be all there.
 
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