Store bought or homemade tape for timing?

Summit will have it.
They quoted me $185. for the linkage parts I need.. bracket, kickdown, cable, etc.. cable alone is $75. does this sound correct? So to put a new edelbrock 1406 on a mopar big block w/ tax and shipping is actually around $560. out the door. Hmm.
Something called a LOKAR KIT is what they had at Summit..
 
Wow... drop the telephone and back slowly away.

You just need a bracket. I looked it up and it's #1481.

Use the stock trans linkage etc.

Here ya go, page 3. http://www.edelbrock.com/automotive/misc/tech-center/install/1000/1406.pdf

But... why go through this nonsense and expense? You have another carb, rebuild that one.

Thanks for the helpful link and info John!

I will in fact rebuild the other 4299S carb when it arrives on the 26th.. it is used and I don't know the full history so there is of course more uncertainty.. trial and error. The unnecessary expense of 300 seems to have been in the rebuild of my factory carb back in October.. so I'm really not sure anymore what is and isn't necessary.
An out of the box edelbrock seems to be the most sure fire way to answer the big "is it the carburetor" question. I found a nib 1406 I could buy for 200, plus the throttle lever adapter for 10.98 at summit.. if I can wire the electric choke without punching a new hole through my firewall then all is good. Run it and see.. no matter what happens with the 1406, I will be removing it promptly and selling it as an essentially brand new unit for 150 less than retail, and I'll break even.. plus have solid answers.
Then rebuild the ebay carb and run that.. and then let the original rebuilder deal with the factory 4299S if it turns out to be the culprit. And as mentioned before.. if in the end I have two working 4299S, great! I can jet one .068 and the other .072 for easy swap outs on the fly.
 
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Hello again C friends,

Here is the heat riser valve on the passenger side manifold of my 383HP factory dual exhaust. Thought I'd check to see if it was the cause of the hot condition, misdirected hot exhaust, fuel boiling, lame choke, and inevitable stall out.
I discovered this was stiff and not moving freely, so I sprayed the mechanisms liberally with pb blaster, moved it by hand back and forth until the counterweight was swinging nicely.. then dropped the exhaust pipe at the manifold to see the valve function.
The thermostat coil was still binding a bit so I sprayed that free and started her up. For some reason the valve did not open, or move in any way as the engine got (very)hot.. tired thermostat coil? Plus it was 90 degrees today here in New York.. but, I was able to temporarily prop and keep the valve/counterweight open with a wrench just to test. No (fuzzy)dice.. the engine issues I've been having persist.. and now I can say for certain that the same series of events/issues are happening in the same exact way over and over again:
Getting exceptionally hot exceptionally fast(but temp gauge showing normal).. fast racing idle at start up, which doesn't kick down automatically no matter how hot it gets. When I kick it down with a quick throttle burst at the carburetor once hot.. it idles lower and sounds good but still too fast.. and I have to do this manually. Then a few minutes later I'll just tap the throttle again, or put her in gear, and the rpms drop out completely, she struggles and then stalls. Auto choke on the carburetor/manifold not moving either, even when entire engine and intake are untouchably hot. Traintech was kind enough to be there again today assisting and assessing via phone and text videos I sent back to him. Not only is he very smart and generous of his time, but a lot of fun to talk with.. thanks again Bill!
So the carburetor remains suspect number one.
One other thing of note is when I ran the engine up to temperature with the exhaust pipe connected, and the heat riser valve open, the passenger side tailpipe out back was hardly warm... while the driver side was extremely hot.
I've noticed this for several months that the passenger side tailpipe is much quieter with much less pressure being pushed out than the driver side.
Blockage in the pipe or muffler? Even if so, it is now proven to be independent of the consistent, persistent issues up front.
I also checked with the exhaust pipe removed, and there is good pressure flowing from the manifold directly.
Also, every time I start the car she fires up with a singe key twist.. and the vacuum gauge I have connected to the manifold vacuum port reads a rock steady 23" hg everytime.
Another step closer!

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*view looking up from under car*
 
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Sounds like something took up residence in your exhaust.
 
The Kit Kame Today..
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The Karb Kums Tomorrow
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Sounds like something took up residence in your exhaust.
Hey Matt- Yeah, something or someone. I've gotta drop the whole passenger pipe and muffler assembly and blow through it to see what gives. You would think anything that went up in there would have been burned up, dried out, and blown out by now..
 
If it's restricted but not causing your issues completely, it's certainly not helping and needs to be corrected.
 
Hey Matt- Yeah, something or someone. I've gotta drop the whole passenger pipe and muffler assembly and blow through it to see what gives. You would think anything that went up in there would have been burned up, dried out, and blown out by now..
Hmm. I'll be interested to see what this brings to light. I mean, obviously the carb is giving issues but this could be causing no end of problems.
I don't know if your system is sectional per side (I.E. if you can break it down into smaller sections to make it easier to clean out) but you should try and get a long piece of stiffer wire (hanger wire or similar) and hook the end. Go into the pipe and try to pull things away from the muffler. Chances are good that if you just blow through, something will wind up in the muffler itself or not move at all .. if you break it up really well then blow through, anything in there will blow out just fine.
 
Hmm. I'll be interested to see what this brings to light. I mean, obviously the carb is giving issues but this could be causing no end of problems.
I don't know if your system is sectional per side (I.E. if you can break it down into smaller sections to make it easier to clean out) but you should try and get a long piece of stiffer wire (hanger wire or similar) and hook the end. Go into the pipe and try to pull things away from the muffler. Chances are good that if you just blow through, something will wind up in the muffler itself or not move at all .. if you break it up really well then blow through, anything in there will blow out just fine.
Hey Gavin,
Thanks.. and yeah, I'll be taking it apart in sections before exploring; pipe off the mani, muffler, and tailpipe. Curious theory, as there has been no distinct dead animal odor since I've had the car.. and this exhaust was installed only two weeks before I got her. However, if I find cute little dead friends inside I will surely post up and share them here.
 
Hey Gavin,
Thanks.. and yeah, I'll be taking it apart in sections before exploring; pipe off the mani, muffler, and tailpipe. Curious theory, as there has been no distinct dead animal odor since I've had the car.. and this exhaust was installed only two weeks before I got her. However, if I find cute little dead friends inside I will surely post up and share them here.
After all this time they may not be so cute. LOL.
 
Hey Gavin,
Thanks.. and yeah, I'll be taking it apart in sections before exploring; pipe off the mani, muffler, and tailpipe. Curious theory, as there has been no distinct dead animal odor since I've had the car.. and this exhaust was installed only two weeks before I got her. However, if I find cute little dead friends inside I will surely post up and share them here.
When you do this, try feeding a garden hose through the front pipe once the muffler is off... double walled exhaust tubing has the ability to collapse the inner wall while the outside would have no indication or maybe just some heat marks. Shaking the muffler will reveal any loose baffles.

Still seems odd this happened to a relatively new system.
 
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Hello Dear C Friends,

Here's a happy little update;
Operation 4299S is almost complete! After two weeks traveling the nation via FedEx "smartpost", my $50 AFB arrived yesterday around 9pm. I got to work immediately disassembling, cleaning, and rebuilding what looks to be a very solid, low milage carburetor. I prepared well for my first go at this, and so the process was enjoyable. I worked straight through to completion with full confidence, and feel good about going to install it on GG tomorrow(saturday).
It is not shiny. However, I have thoroughly gone through and rebuilt her using a very good USA made kit, and exact FSM specifications. As best said by cantflip, this is the "quick & dirty". I can polish it up another day.. right now it is time to bolt it on and run her.

Thanks to all of you for sticking with me by watching & continuing to participate in this thread and forum-- I would be lost, alone, and left standing there with my ignition coil in my hand without you guys!
Ever upward.
 
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Update:

It was the carburetor!

The Good:
Late afternoon yesterday, I installed the $50 ebay special AFB 4299S I had freshly rebuilt the day before. I turned the key forward once for about 4 seconds and she fired right up!
She ran strong & steady. Vacuum was strong at 21"hg, with some vibration on the needle within a very tight range (20-21"hg). Timing found itself at about 10 degrees at idle, and dwell was at an absolutely perfect 30 degrees. The choke valve cracked open about 1/8", but even once warm it didn't open up much more than that. I still need help fine tuning, setting up and adjusting the fast idle screw, fast idle cam, choke, step down, curb idle, and air-fuel mixture-- all of which I do not yet have a full understanding of, especially getting them to all work together in perfect harmony. Upon start up, she was idling pretty high at 1200 rpms.. the only thing I did was bumped the throttle linkage and she kicked down slightly to about 800rpm..from there I turned the curb idle screw down and got her idling at about 500rpm, which is to FSM specs. FSM fast idle spec btw is 700 rpm. Before bolting it on I had turned the fuel/mixture screws 2 full turns out each. She was running good, without rpms dropping out, no hesitation, stalling, and without getting untouchably hot. The throttle has a little bit of sticking on its return to idle, which needs addressing.
So I let her get up to temp, and took her out for a little ride. She went into gear no problem, and despite the steering being in need of a good alignment.. and the brakes needing to be adjusted and bled.. she drove extremely well!
She really moved--fast and smooth on the acceleration, transmission shifted beautifully as I took her steadily up to about 40-45mph.
As tempting as it was, I didn't want to push it by going any faster or by opening up the secondaries(its been a while since she's driven) I did take her about 1/4 mile to get gas. Even at the stop lights she behaved well- no hesitation or tendency to stall.. although a bit fast on the idle due to the slight stickyness right at the very end of the throttle return. I was beaming with satisfaction on the return drive to the garage...

The Not So Good: ...when about a block away there is a ton of smoke coming from the engine. When I get her back and opened the hood, I see fluid all over everything on the drivers side of the engine compartment.. I mean everything covered and dripping. Turns out that my ps pressure hose sprung a good sized pin hole leak, which under load and steering was spraying fluid everywhere. An oily mess.
After wiping everything down, it was advised that I liberally spray it all down with brakecleen fluid to wash it all away. So I did it. Never again. It removed and damaged paint and plastic parts instantly. Power steering pump that I meticulously repainted and cured is a mess. The brand new plastic check valve nipples on my brake booster became so brittle that they simply fell off while I was wiping brake fluid off them. The original factory red oxide primer peeled off everywhere too. So now I need a new booster check valve and a new pressure hose. I want to replace it with a quality hose ASAP.. anyone with a good working hose for sale or suggestions where to buy are much appreciated.. it's for a small 1967 trw pump.

So my procurement and rebuild of the carburetor a major success in more ways than one, despite the fact that it still needs the lost art of choke adjustment applied.

Alex
 
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fter wiping everything down, it was advised that I spay it all heavily with brakecleen fluid to wash it all away. So I did it. Never again. It removed and damaged paint and plastic parts instantly. Power steering pump that I meticulously repainted and cured is a mess.

What brand brake cleaner did you get? I would not have advised using it for cleanup, but I'm surprised it did that much damage.

I either need to stay away from it or buy a case.....
 
I use brake cleaner for a lot of things but I am always very careful on classics because it will peel paint if it's not very hard
 
Some sort of purple degreaser or simple green would have sufficed.
 
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